A/F ratio meter

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Which O2 sensor do i hook up the A/F ratio meter to?
Here is the instructions that i got from Auto meter, Auto meter.

And here are some pics of what im dealing with.


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are you boosted? if not, then why the need for a a/f guage?
whats the volt guage for, aside from the obvious....

Rsaeini hooked up my a/f guage. if he sees this thread tomorrow, im sure he'll be able to explain to you how to do it :D

p.s.

i was under my hood this weekend, and happened to notice a few of the wiring jobs he did for me when he helped install my turbo....

Top notch work to say the least :thumbsup:

instead of splicing both wires, and attaching them with some electrical tape...
he took the time to cut off a section of the insulating material and then somehow slide the wire in, and wrap it all up in a nice little package....

i was impressed :D
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Sep 14 2003, 05:02 PM
do you have a wideband o2? then why the need for a worthless reading.

where do i get a wideband o2 from? how much do they cost?
how hard are they to install.
 
i had bought a prelude with hella mods on it already. The car already had those, so i just decided to take what i can before i ditch the other car. The car HAD ground control, tokico illumina blues, teg rims, cam gears, DC sports header 4-2-1, intake, relocated battery kit, front and rear strut bars, and those gauges, and a few othe misc things. Can i get any help on the install proccess?? I just want to out it in and have it work, not like theres a need for it anyways, like what was already stated. So yea.... Thanx for the replies, can i haver more?
 
Is there's a O2 sensor before the cat???
If not just hook up to either one, and make sure you ground the A/F gauge directly to the battery. If not it would read wrong!!
 
You still be able to read off of it even is its not wideband.... I got a BOSH O2 sensor, and it reads fine. I can see difference between fuel pressures...

The only way you are going to read something out of it is at WOT... The grounding to the batt part is the most important thing to get good readings off of a A/F gauge..
 
it READS fine, but its a bullshit reading.

read this: http://www.hondata.com/techwidebandtuning.html

it might be "close" but it really only tells you two things- lean, or rich. thats it. the voltage a 4-wire non-wideband o2 sends out has very little difference in voltages to send back to the gauge.

a wideband on the other hand actually changes voltage.
 
ok well i got it installed and it workks, i guess. Umm yea i dont really personally know if it works, but it lights up and every thing. OK so yea, the gauge is constantly reading RICH, at idle, higher rps, and at acceleration. on deceleration, it reads Super Lean. Is this normal for a honda?!? It just doenst seem riht to me.
 
Originally posted by rudeludenotmeanthough@Sep 14 2003, 10:59 PM
ok well i got it installed and it workks, i guess. Umm yea i dont really personally know if it works, but it lights up and every thing. OK so yea, the gauge is constantly reading RICH, at idle, higher rps, and at acceleration. on deceleration, it reads Super Lean. Is this normal for a honda?!? It just doenst seem riht to me.

its fine.
 
exactly what I was going to say, It's like a Pointless reading...why have it if it doesn't work properly but good to hear you got it running.

I still recommend the wideband like B said
 
How much do the wide band o2 sensors go for... and yes i plan on installing 2 of them soon, in place of my stock sensors. Are there any that fit my Header so that i wont have to install any sort os thingy ma-bobs? I read Ludespeend.com's article about them, and he said after installing them he got batter gas millage, and a better overall running car too. About how much do these run for. I got an autozone, here. HOw much am i looking to spend? and from what year kinda car should i get them from?
 
they are far from cheap. but moreover, your stock honda computer won't work with it. you are better off just getting another bung welded in right next to your other o2.

expect about 500-1000 for the sensor and reading instrumentation, and for it to last 20k miles at best.
 
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