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A few DOHC ZC pre-swap questions..

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EF' started by Jdub752, Sep 22, 2006.

  1. Jdub752

    Jdub752 88 CRX DOHC ZC

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    I have an 89 DOHC ZC ready to go into my 88 CRX.
    I currently have a D16Y7 installed.

    Will the y7 (D-series) tranny mate with the ZC?

    WHICH is the best ECU for the ZC.. pm7? pr4? pm6?
    how will the diff. ECU affect my performance?

    I have done the timing belt + water pump already, what else should I do?
    (sensors, adjustments, ect..)

    Should I replace the stock PGFI intake manifold?
    SHould I replace the the dizzy?

    are there any quirks I should know about this swap?

    Thanks for answering any or all of my questions, as I am new to Hondaswap but not new to forums such as H-T
     
  2. lil_red_rex

    lil_red_rex i do body work!

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    i just got done with my swap and the tranny will work....the only thing to worry about now is ur ecu...a pm6 will run rich...the pm7 is best but will run a ll richer than thepm6 and the pr4 will run hella rich i belive because thats made for a 1.8l dohc engine...but it might run just as good as the pm7....but the pm7 is ur best bet for now....if u cant find it...stay with the pm6
     
  3. jlicrx

    jlicrx Senior Member

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    the best ECU for the OBD0 DOHC ZC is the JDM PM7 which is the factory ECU for that engine - the next best is the USDM PG7 from the 88-89 (not 86-87) Integra which is basically the same as the JDM PM7 except it doesn't have the 112mph speed limiter that the PM7 has - both the PM7 and PG7 have fuel cut-off (rev limiter) at about 7500 rpm - next would be the USDM PM6 from 88-91 CRX/Civic Si/EX with D16A6 engine - won't run quite as good and has fuel cut-off at 7200rpm - the ZC likes a little higher rpm - last would be the USDM PR4 from 90-91 integra B18A1 - will run a little rich and won't run as well as the others

    i would suggest you replace the front and rear crankshaft seals and the oil pan gasket before installing the engine - a lot easier to do with the engine out than trying to do it once the engine is installed and you find out you have a oil leak - also not a bad idea to replace the fuel pressure regulator with either a stock one or an adjustable one like the B&M - new distributor cap, rotor and plug wires also a good idea, but are easily done after the engine is in

    you will need to do a minor wiring change at the distributor

    make sure you have the timing belt on exactly right
     
  4. Jdub752

    Jdub752 88 CRX DOHC ZC

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    Wow thank you both for the detailed reply and for answering my questions. I like this forum better than the H-T because they flame you for not knowing everything. One more question.. How can I tell if the pm7 is a usdm or jdm? you said the jdm had no speed limit, correct? Als, how can I get the most power out a the zc without juice or boost? (and besides I/H/E).

    Thanks again for the replys!:D
     
  5. jlicrx

    jlicrx Senior Member

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    all PM7 ECUs are JDM and all JDM ECUs have the speed limiter
     
  6. Periculum

    Periculum Senior Member

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    Any of the original civic trannys D-series will bolt up to the ZC, the ZC tranny would be the most fun (since it has LSD too) but any will do. If youre looking for gas mileage/less aggressive go with an HF or DX tranny (prob DX) if you want the powermove over to an SI or even a ZC tranny. Youll be running a good 3k plus on the highway, but youll be able to pull in fifth at 60 MPH :)

    I agree with jlicrx, replace as many seals as you can get your hands on, dont want to have to replace a rear main seal after just popping it in. there are some seals in the spark plug tubes under the camshafts, depending on your knowledge it might be an idea to change those as well, since youll have the valve cover off to do a valve cover gasket, but all that can be done with the motor in. I did a rebuild with the motor in, a lot of things can be done that way, but not as easy, Rear main seal cant be done that way, so thats why its a must. I hear the distributor o-ring is a prob with that motor, and way too easy to do. possibly the o-ring on the TPS sensor too.

    for power? if you got headers with the ZC, use those, they are much better than the manifold that came in any USDM, if you wanted to ride without a cat, you can combine the JDM mainfold with an HF B-pipe and youll have a bolt on cat-less exhaust (still has a resonator though). You could go with a lot of other things such as having the ECU reprogrammed (hondata? <-- not sure on who does it) An intake shouldnt be a bad idea, the stock is rather restrictive compared to an aftermarket. An intake made my HF run rich though :( dunno if it does that to the bigger motors. cant think of what else to tell you off the top of my head w/o boosting.
     
  7. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    You just don't know how much better this site is when it comes to that.

    However you actually asked respectable questions.
    When people go around asking things like, "Is it possible to put a b16 into my EF civic/crx?", or "How hard is a B18 swap in a crx?"... It just gets OLD. It's covered SO much.

    You'll be supprised how much stuff has been covered, so don't be afraid to dig up old threads by searching.(read them, don't revive them...).
    Enjoy your stay, as it seems you already are!
     
  8. ef8

    ef8 Junior Member

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    You are probably not using the y7 tranny in your crx being that the y7 is from car with a hydro tranny.Did you put the y7 in your car or did you buy it like that?If your cars 5speed you either have a civic/crx si tranny or a dx tranny.
     
  9. Jdub752

    Jdub752 88 CRX DOHC ZC

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    oh i see well I do not have a hydro clutch so it must be a dx or si (cable), but how can i tell, are there any markings to identify?
     
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