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A6 longblock\Z6 intake\Y7 throttle body - Help

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EF' started by Exodus, Apr 4, 2007.

  1. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    I was taking my engine out to re-gasket it, and due to certain circumstances, I'm forced to use an available Z6 intake manifold and a Y7 throttle body (broke the TPS on the way out).

    The throttle body and manifold mate perfectly and have the same ID. The A6 gasket even works just fine. But, what's the sensor on the bottom of the throttle body and can I completely remove it or should I just disconnect the plug?

    Also, I was curious about the fact that the head isn't getting ported for this manifold. This is all getting done in a barn as a last second, gotta get it running to get to work and ZERO dollar project. I have no money whatsoever, but I have everything I need already, so I can't go to the machine shop unfortunately.

    Anyway, the width of the intake ports on the head is less than that of the manifold, but I believe taller. How many intake turbulence issues is this going to cause?

    Also, the Z6 manifold is BARE. I have all of the stuff on my stock manifold and a Y7 manifold laying around for parts, I have yet to finish assembly, so I'm not sure about all of the compatibility issues I'm going to run into yet.

    What items can I pull from other manifolds to add to the Z6? I'm more worried about this running halfway normal than anything... if all that's wrong with the motor is the intake manifold situation, I'll be fine as long as it drives and I can change stuff.

    ANy issues I may run into or suggestions? It's all staying stock except specifically the manifold, throttle body and fuel rail, so all of the stock wiring, or most at least will be retained, I'm just more worried about idle issues arising, so any advice on this setup?
     
  2. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    So, do not use the FITV on the bottom of the TB then, correct? I'd prefer to keep most of this as stock as possible.

    I have an O-Ring kit that I can use to reseal the injectors already, so it won't cost me any more money.

    One problem I ran into so far is using the ODB0 IACV on the Z6 manifold. The second bolt hole (the one furthest from #4) on the IACV has no hole behind it on the manifold, it does however have an uncut stud with a pre-drawn circle that if cut out and tapped would allow the IACV to bolt completely flush (since the bolt hole on the IACV next to #4 lines up perfectly). However, the stud and circle are sliiiightly too far towards the direction of #1 to perfectly mate, and the threads of the bolt would be sticking out the side, it's just millimeters too far inward.

    SOOO, we thought about adding some sealant to the gasket on the IACV, and then another layer around the edge of the entire thing, then a line around where the iacv and manifold meet and reef the only bolt that lines up down and hope for the best., or maybe run a hose clamp around the plenum and IACV to assist the seal... I just wish it wasn't gasketed, ugh

    The spare parts motor I have laying around is a Y7 in case anything off of it is compatible and usable on my setup, I just happened to have the Z6 manifold.

    Oh yeah, I did the valve seals last night and I can't remember from the last motor I did whether or not the seal goes down ALL the way to the spring seat (the top most part of it) or if the last grip ridge of the valve guide should be covered and then there is a little gap between the top of the seat and the bottom of the seal where you can see the guide in between. Any ideas? I have extra seals and ended killing three of the ones I installed trying to find out if they are supposed to go further or just stay.
     
  3. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    The Z6 manifold has no IACV, so I'm using the Si one. We put some gasket sealer over the gasket on back of it after cleaning out the internal sections, reefed the one bolt down that does line up and it doesn't seem to want to move whatsoever, I'll be picking up a Z6 unit though later on for safety's sake.

    Question on the FITV, is it necessary? I'm pretty big on the whole "deleting" subject, have been since the day I got into cars. Over time I learned a lot of people generally are either just mis-informed or completely uneducated altogether about which components are not realistically necessary and would not adversely affect the health of the engine (such as an idiot thinking an o2 isn't necessary but not deleting their purge cut-off solenoid valve). My point being, can I safely run without it, or is it going to affect things like warming time to op temp at idle, idle smoothness, any kind of gas mileage issues, etc... I'm worried about it running RIGHT when I delete stuff, and I wanna make sure the only stuff that goes is stuff that can without issue. (side note, definitely deleting the charcoal canister, purge cut-off and a few other things, I like a clean bay and tucked wires personally.. plus, anything extra is purely that, extra :) )

    I should have the engine back together tonight, I'll surely be on here in a panic trying to figure out some kind of compatibility or frankenstein based issue, so I'll report back soon.


    Oh yeah, here's a pic of the block, I have no hot tank available this was all by hand...

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    Oh, here's the head...

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    Alright, so check this out. Engine is most of the way done. Here's the low down on what's going on:

    A6 block
    A6 tranny + ES torque mount inserts and shifter bushings
    A6 head
    Z6 intake manifold
    Z6 fuel rail & reg.
    A6 injectors\resistor\engine harness\car harness\ECU\fuel pump
    Y7 throttle body
    A6 IACV
    DC header
    A6 alternator
    A6 oil pump\water pump (modified per ENDYN's instructions)
    LS starter
    ACT Stage 2 clutch
    Daikin pp
    misc. short ram

    -Engine has been re-gasketed all over
    -Charcoal canister delete entirely, fuel vapor line utilizing breather filter
    -IACV outlet hooked to water pipe as per stock
    -IACV inlet streamlined directly to available rear port on intake manifold (new location on Z6 unit, modified routing, deletes routing of coolant through the throttle body)
    -FITV capped on TB, unplugged
    -Rear vacuum nipple on #1 intake runner capped
    -Valve cover breather filter
    -Purge Cut-off solenoid valve removed
    -Map sensor relocated to TB


    Later on I intend to run the Z6 throttle body and IACV and continue the streamlined coolant routing until colder months.

    I also run my distributor fully advanced with completely stock frontal engine timing, valve lash is stock at the tightest tolerances.

    The bottom end did not get new bearings or rings, it was completely un-cracked except for seals (less the rear crank seal which will be changed when I update the clutch, pp and flywheel, this was for time's sake unfortunately).

    Another note of mention, the battery is rear located and the engine harness is tucked, there is NO extra bullshit under my hood. That includes stock wiring back to the ECU for accesories and features that my car does not have on it, which includes the purge cut-off circuit and AC, etc..

    I'll be interested in seeing what a base-line does, but I'm waaay broke, shit, I did this entire project on less than $100. Of course, new fluids and oil filter, as well as drain pan gasket. I'm willing to bet around 100+ at the tires, torque at mid to upper 90's nearing or breaking 100.

    I generally run only Unleaded Plus 89 Octane gas, I prefer Shell Gasoline and do not run BP ever.

    Rest of the chassis mods are as follows:

    -2.5" custom exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and stock cat deletion extension of the B-pipe, flanging accounted for.
    -StainlessSB brake lines
    -Green stuff pads on the rears (only other brake mod at the time, lol, I'm broke)
    -Falken Ziex tires on stock wheels
    -Misc. eBay looking coilovers, my judgement would lead me to believe the springs are also cut
    -Monro Struts
    -Skunk2 rear upper strut tower bar
    -eB lower rear tie bar
    -stock sway bars
    -stock crossmembers & steering rack & diff\axles
    -eBay front upper strut tower bar


    ugh, hungry and sleepy... more later after replies, open to any input, ideas, advice, criticism and corrections. Let me know what's up with my setup!
     
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