accod swap h22a
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accordsir187
New Member
h22a swap into 90-93 accord
yes the tranny will match up the a/c will match up and so will the power steering the only thing about the power steering is some people that have done this swap say that when they use the accord power steering pump it rubs agianst the hood but most say it isnt a problem . you need to get a 92-95 jdm h22a VTEC OBD1 engine the 5speed version has 20 more horspower than the auto so becarefull buying the engine separate from the transmission they will try to sell you the 180hp version. i have created a thread that should help you alot with alot of questions and answers note you will have to use the preludes OBD1 P13 ecu becuase your f22a is not vtec and you will have to run new wires for vtec solenoid, vtec oil preasure sender, knock sensor, and possibly map sensor the thread i am reffering you to will give you alot more details.
i always supports accords getting a face lift. if i have been alot of help to you leave me some rep i just joined this site. here is the thread. https://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ba-bb-ca-cd/4th-gen-accord-h22a-vtec-swap-100984/new-post.html
yes the tranny will match up the a/c will match up and so will the power steering the only thing about the power steering is some people that have done this swap say that when they use the accord power steering pump it rubs agianst the hood but most say it isnt a problem . you need to get a 92-95 jdm h22a VTEC OBD1 engine the 5speed version has 20 more horspower than the auto so becarefull buying the engine separate from the transmission they will try to sell you the 180hp version. i have created a thread that should help you alot with alot of questions and answers note you will have to use the preludes OBD1 P13 ecu becuase your f22a is not vtec and you will have to run new wires for vtec solenoid, vtec oil preasure sender, knock sensor, and possibly map sensor the thread i am reffering you to will give you alot more details.
i always supports accords getting a face lift. if i have been alot of help to you leave me some rep i just joined this site. here is the thread. https://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ba-bb-ca-cd/4th-gen-accord-h22a-vtec-swap-100984/new-post.html
accordsir187
New Member
link to a sport compact car writeup on the h22a swap in accords
Accord Chassis with H22 Engine - Tech - Sport
write up by another member of this sight not by me i dont wont to break any web laws
link for manual tensioner conversion.
' Hit The Pavement ' :: H22 Auto to manual Timing belt tensioner Conversion
BASIC H22A INSTALLATION INTO A 4TH GENERATION ACCORD
You start by removing your accessories from your original engine. The AC compressor stays in the engine compartment, while your alternator and power steering pump are removed. I use cable ties to suspend the AC compressor up high and out of the way, strapped to the radiator core. The low pressure line(power steering) should be plugged or the resevoir will drain on the ground. The radiator, battery, battery box, intake piping, radiator hoses, heater hoses(at heater core valve and back of block seem easiest), and coolant resevoir can all be removed also. The wiring harness needs to be removed from the fans on the radiator. You will be pulling against the harness if this is not done before trying to remove it. I usually leave the header connected to the engine, but unbolt it at the first flange. If your original engine has the O2 sensor on the header, it might be a good idea to pull the header shroud off and remove the sensor. Disconnect the main harness plugs at the passenger fender, and disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect transmission linkage. For Auto tranny, disconnect shifter cable underneath, and the lines next to the rear motor mount. You will want some rubber caps for those lines in that case, since they will also keep draining.
Leave the wiring harness in place as much as possible and mark anything you are unsure about with a paint pen. Yellow works nicely. On the intake, I mark the hose numbers. On joining harness ends, I use lines and dots on each side that match each respective connection.
With the car jacked up, and safely suspended on REAL jackstands, I start removing axles. To remove the axles:
The lower ball joint, tie rod end, lower strut bolt, and axle nut must be removed. A ball joint seperator is handy to have, but sometimes a normal pry bar works to pop the ball joint out of it's hole. Once done, a quick lift of the brake rotor will clear it from it's hole. With this loose, remove the splined outer axle end from it's slot. Be careful not to pound on the axle ends or pull the joints too far apart. With an automatic, a small pry bar eases removal from the transmission. A small retaining ring holds them on the inside.
Leave the suspension loose unless you have to roll the car around. There are two main supports for the front end. One runs front to back, and another larger one is held by four large long bolts in the front, and has four short bolts holding braces to the suspension. I prefer to remove this whole thing by removing those eight bolts, to aid in installation(more space).
Hopefully, you have a lift that goes much higher than you need to go. I have done this swap a number of times, so I'll give you the low down. A cherry picker probably won't lift high enough if the car is on jack stands. A chain hoist or come-a-long may lift high enough, but won't roll anywhere. The best way to do this is to have a hoist on a track or a picker that lifts high(maybe a forklift or a bigger cherry picker). Otherwise, I recommend that you be prepared to put the front end back together so you can roll the car out from under the lifted engine, and conversely back under the new engine when the time comes.
Once you are sure which method to use, and have everthing disconnected but the two motor mounts and the tranny mount, prepare to lift the motor. Connect your lifting chain or other safe lifting apparatus to the engine. Lift just slightly against the bolted down engine to support the weight. Loosen each mounting bolt(the horizontal ones). You may find it much easier to lift and drop the motor slightly as you are removing these bolts. I usually pull the drivers mount bolt first, then the tranny mount, then the rear mount. It may also help to loosen the vertical bolts a little, but not too far, because you don't want to pull the bolts out, or strip the last couple of threads from the studs.
Carefully guide the motor out, checking every inch or so for missed lines, wires, or small obstructions like AC lines.
I prefer to do the harness swap outside of the car. The IAB wiring is optional. Many people just run a vacuum hose directly from the IAB to the intake manifold, bypassing the black box. It is a very simple and effective method, and no codes will be thrown. Of course, if you have the EX model, then the IAB wiring will already be present. If you insist on wiring the IAB, make sure you have an unbroken black box with solenoid below your intake manifold. Run the hoses. The black wire with yellow stripe is + power with the key on, and the pink wire goes to the ECU.
Leave VTEC alone at this point, since you will just confuse yourself. You should swap a couple of items right off of the get go from your stock motor. Carefully pull your EGR from the top of your motor. If done nicely, the gasket will not tear. Transplant that item on the H22(direct fit, saves wiring). Next, the front waterneck with the fan switch should be placed on the H22. It has an O-ring gasket, which makes it very simple. Just check the ring for wear. They are dirt cheap to buy, but chances are you don't need one.
Start wrapping the stock harness around your new engine. You'll need to lengthen a few wires. This becomes self explanatory as you go. The VTEC oil pressure sender takes a different end than your stock oil pressure sensor. They essentially do the same thing. I have successfully traded ends on the stock wiring harness. A small circular electrical connector works just fine. That wire is the yellow wire with the red stripe. The knock sensor is above the oil filter, and the VTEC oil pressure sensor is below. Shielded audio wire should be used for the knock sensor if you do not have the original H22 wiring to steal. Leave yourself a nice length of wire, to easily reach into ECU area after routing the wire. The O2 sensor will be relocated to the lower part of the header, so that will also be lengthened. Finally, once you are sure that the rest of your wiring is sound, add the VTEC wires. You should have near the distributor, blue, green, and black wires. The blue and the green wires are sent to the ECU, and the black wire gets grounded somewhere to the engine.
While the motor is out, you'll also want to figure out which accessories you want. I kept my powersteering and AC, so that's how I'll tell you to do it. The brackets on your original block should be switched over. This will keep everything in line. I prefer to use the H22 bracket and pump. This requires that you buy a DOHC prelude hose. I bought one directly from Honda for $140. The lower end of the hose must be gently tweaked to fit the Accord chassis, but it can be done. I suggest you complete this task with the motor out. I did it with my H22 installed, and you don't want to.....Be very careful not to kink the steel. Make smooth gradual bends that don't flatten out the steel. This is important both for flow of fluid, and making sure that you don't scrap a brand new hose. Your other choice is to have a hydraulic shop attach a Prelude top side to your accord hose. I tried, but none of my local shops would touch it. Too much liablity. It can be done though. Some people have told me that they kept the Accord PS pump, and others have told me that there is a clearance issue. I honestly don't know for sure which swaps it works in and the ones that don't work. You can try it, but you won't know until the swap is installed if it works or not. My swap came with the prelude pump, and so I used it.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 24 2005, 04:34 AM
on the power steering pump issue, i just finished an h22 in a 92 auto accord swapped to manual at the same time, i shimmed the accord pump and bracket and it cleared the hood no problem.* just to make sure i did repeated 6000 rpm clutch drops to see if the motor would come up and hit it. no problems whatsoever.
the reason being that the accord pump bracket isnt stepped, so it doesnt match up properly with the h22 block.* so i shimmed the the lower mounting hole with a couple of washers and took care of that problem.* of the 3 most recent h22 accord swaps ive done, only one had a slight clearance issue with this setup; and that was fixed by simply removing the 10mm ground bolt off the top of the pump bracket and slightly bending the line closer to the pump.* the customer has put 12000 miles on this swap now with no issues.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I used an EBAY exhaust manifold. It has worked great for me. I cleaned up the exhaust flange holes before installing it with a die grinder, to ensure smooth flow. That's not necessary, but it certainly didn't hurt. This header relocated my O2 sensor for me, bolted right up to my stock cat, and already had a flex pipe installed. A stainless header for $88 plus shipping. C'mon, you can't beat that. I didn't even have to weld on it. I have been told that the 94-95 Accord has a different length to the cat. You should plan on a trip to the exhaust shop with a fifth gen.
You'll also have to check the number of grooves on your accessory belts. I believe that I used a four groove belt on the for the AC, crank, and alternator. Then a five groove was used for the PS pump to crank belt.
Change your fuel filter, and lengthen the hose if need be(90-93 Accords need to be longer for sure). It's easier to change the filter and disconnect the hoses with the engine out, but reinstalling the fuel line isn't that bad with everything already installed.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 5 2005, 01:28 AM
thanks for the great info... very much right on point.* when dealing with the fuel inlet hose on the 90-93 accord ive found it easier, and much more sanitary, to just swap out the sohc fuel rail onto the h22. it will bolt right on and look factory.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
This may not apply to fifth gen....^
Install your new engine, and start reconnecting everything.
Leave the VTEC wiring for last. You may want to reroute the wires a bit. After everything else is done, move into the ECU area to finish up.
In 90-93 Accords, there are no pins to switch. In 94-95 Accords, pins A6 and A11 need to be swapped. The ends are different sizes, so the wires do need to be clipped to finish that stage.
Assuming you have that done, start connecting wires. I like to rob ECU harness ends from the junkyard. You can reuse the pins with wires still attached. The harness end opens up. Using a very small screwdriver, you can remove the pins from the donor harness. You will see that there are big and small pins. Choose which you need for each wire to connect.
The VTEC oil pressure switch grounds to the engine, and the blue wire with black stripe connects to D6. The VTEC solenoid valve has a green wire with a yellow stripe, and it connects to A4. The Knock sensor is a red wire with a blue stripe, and goes to D3. The IAB, if you chose, has a pink wire with blue stripe ran to A17.
Use your pinout to find which slot you need for sure. If you need to run a wire to D6, find out what color D4 and D8 are. You can't foul up if you know which wires are to either side. Remember, one row is odd, and the other even. It won't kill you to triple check, because it doesn't take long, and those pins land firmly in place when installed correctly. They only go in one orientation. If twisted, they won't shove in, so don't force them. Do one wire at a time, until finished.
Check for codes.
If you have a code, you probably F***ed up. God bless these codes, they tell you where you f***ed up. To clear the code to check again, disconnect your battery OR pull the ECU fuse for at least 15 seconds.
Accord Chassis with H22 Engine - Tech - Sport
write up by another member of this sight not by me i dont wont to break any web laws
link for manual tensioner conversion.
' Hit The Pavement ' :: H22 Auto to manual Timing belt tensioner Conversion
BASIC H22A INSTALLATION INTO A 4TH GENERATION ACCORD
You start by removing your accessories from your original engine. The AC compressor stays in the engine compartment, while your alternator and power steering pump are removed. I use cable ties to suspend the AC compressor up high and out of the way, strapped to the radiator core. The low pressure line(power steering) should be plugged or the resevoir will drain on the ground. The radiator, battery, battery box, intake piping, radiator hoses, heater hoses(at heater core valve and back of block seem easiest), and coolant resevoir can all be removed also. The wiring harness needs to be removed from the fans on the radiator. You will be pulling against the harness if this is not done before trying to remove it. I usually leave the header connected to the engine, but unbolt it at the first flange. If your original engine has the O2 sensor on the header, it might be a good idea to pull the header shroud off and remove the sensor. Disconnect the main harness plugs at the passenger fender, and disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect transmission linkage. For Auto tranny, disconnect shifter cable underneath, and the lines next to the rear motor mount. You will want some rubber caps for those lines in that case, since they will also keep draining.
Leave the wiring harness in place as much as possible and mark anything you are unsure about with a paint pen. Yellow works nicely. On the intake, I mark the hose numbers. On joining harness ends, I use lines and dots on each side that match each respective connection.
With the car jacked up, and safely suspended on REAL jackstands, I start removing axles. To remove the axles:
The lower ball joint, tie rod end, lower strut bolt, and axle nut must be removed. A ball joint seperator is handy to have, but sometimes a normal pry bar works to pop the ball joint out of it's hole. Once done, a quick lift of the brake rotor will clear it from it's hole. With this loose, remove the splined outer axle end from it's slot. Be careful not to pound on the axle ends or pull the joints too far apart. With an automatic, a small pry bar eases removal from the transmission. A small retaining ring holds them on the inside.
Leave the suspension loose unless you have to roll the car around. There are two main supports for the front end. One runs front to back, and another larger one is held by four large long bolts in the front, and has four short bolts holding braces to the suspension. I prefer to remove this whole thing by removing those eight bolts, to aid in installation(more space).
Hopefully, you have a lift that goes much higher than you need to go. I have done this swap a number of times, so I'll give you the low down. A cherry picker probably won't lift high enough if the car is on jack stands. A chain hoist or come-a-long may lift high enough, but won't roll anywhere. The best way to do this is to have a hoist on a track or a picker that lifts high(maybe a forklift or a bigger cherry picker). Otherwise, I recommend that you be prepared to put the front end back together so you can roll the car out from under the lifted engine, and conversely back under the new engine when the time comes.
Once you are sure which method to use, and have everthing disconnected but the two motor mounts and the tranny mount, prepare to lift the motor. Connect your lifting chain or other safe lifting apparatus to the engine. Lift just slightly against the bolted down engine to support the weight. Loosen each mounting bolt(the horizontal ones). You may find it much easier to lift and drop the motor slightly as you are removing these bolts. I usually pull the drivers mount bolt first, then the tranny mount, then the rear mount. It may also help to loosen the vertical bolts a little, but not too far, because you don't want to pull the bolts out, or strip the last couple of threads from the studs.
Carefully guide the motor out, checking every inch or so for missed lines, wires, or small obstructions like AC lines.
I prefer to do the harness swap outside of the car. The IAB wiring is optional. Many people just run a vacuum hose directly from the IAB to the intake manifold, bypassing the black box. It is a very simple and effective method, and no codes will be thrown. Of course, if you have the EX model, then the IAB wiring will already be present. If you insist on wiring the IAB, make sure you have an unbroken black box with solenoid below your intake manifold. Run the hoses. The black wire with yellow stripe is + power with the key on, and the pink wire goes to the ECU.
Leave VTEC alone at this point, since you will just confuse yourself. You should swap a couple of items right off of the get go from your stock motor. Carefully pull your EGR from the top of your motor. If done nicely, the gasket will not tear. Transplant that item on the H22(direct fit, saves wiring). Next, the front waterneck with the fan switch should be placed on the H22. It has an O-ring gasket, which makes it very simple. Just check the ring for wear. They are dirt cheap to buy, but chances are you don't need one.
Start wrapping the stock harness around your new engine. You'll need to lengthen a few wires. This becomes self explanatory as you go. The VTEC oil pressure sender takes a different end than your stock oil pressure sensor. They essentially do the same thing. I have successfully traded ends on the stock wiring harness. A small circular electrical connector works just fine. That wire is the yellow wire with the red stripe. The knock sensor is above the oil filter, and the VTEC oil pressure sensor is below. Shielded audio wire should be used for the knock sensor if you do not have the original H22 wiring to steal. Leave yourself a nice length of wire, to easily reach into ECU area after routing the wire. The O2 sensor will be relocated to the lower part of the header, so that will also be lengthened. Finally, once you are sure that the rest of your wiring is sound, add the VTEC wires. You should have near the distributor, blue, green, and black wires. The blue and the green wires are sent to the ECU, and the black wire gets grounded somewhere to the engine.
While the motor is out, you'll also want to figure out which accessories you want. I kept my powersteering and AC, so that's how I'll tell you to do it. The brackets on your original block should be switched over. This will keep everything in line. I prefer to use the H22 bracket and pump. This requires that you buy a DOHC prelude hose. I bought one directly from Honda for $140. The lower end of the hose must be gently tweaked to fit the Accord chassis, but it can be done. I suggest you complete this task with the motor out. I did it with my H22 installed, and you don't want to.....Be very careful not to kink the steel. Make smooth gradual bends that don't flatten out the steel. This is important both for flow of fluid, and making sure that you don't scrap a brand new hose. Your other choice is to have a hydraulic shop attach a Prelude top side to your accord hose. I tried, but none of my local shops would touch it. Too much liablity. It can be done though. Some people have told me that they kept the Accord PS pump, and others have told me that there is a clearance issue. I honestly don't know for sure which swaps it works in and the ones that don't work. You can try it, but you won't know until the swap is installed if it works or not. My swap came with the prelude pump, and so I used it.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 24 2005, 04:34 AM
on the power steering pump issue, i just finished an h22 in a 92 auto accord swapped to manual at the same time, i shimmed the accord pump and bracket and it cleared the hood no problem.* just to make sure i did repeated 6000 rpm clutch drops to see if the motor would come up and hit it. no problems whatsoever.
the reason being that the accord pump bracket isnt stepped, so it doesnt match up properly with the h22 block.* so i shimmed the the lower mounting hole with a couple of washers and took care of that problem.* of the 3 most recent h22 accord swaps ive done, only one had a slight clearance issue with this setup; and that was fixed by simply removing the 10mm ground bolt off the top of the pump bracket and slightly bending the line closer to the pump.* the customer has put 12000 miles on this swap now with no issues.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I used an EBAY exhaust manifold. It has worked great for me. I cleaned up the exhaust flange holes before installing it with a die grinder, to ensure smooth flow. That's not necessary, but it certainly didn't hurt. This header relocated my O2 sensor for me, bolted right up to my stock cat, and already had a flex pipe installed. A stainless header for $88 plus shipping. C'mon, you can't beat that. I didn't even have to weld on it. I have been told that the 94-95 Accord has a different length to the cat. You should plan on a trip to the exhaust shop with a fifth gen.
You'll also have to check the number of grooves on your accessory belts. I believe that I used a four groove belt on the for the AC, crank, and alternator. Then a five groove was used for the PS pump to crank belt.
Change your fuel filter, and lengthen the hose if need be(90-93 Accords need to be longer for sure). It's easier to change the filter and disconnect the hoses with the engine out, but reinstalling the fuel line isn't that bad with everything already installed.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 5 2005, 01:28 AM
thanks for the great info... very much right on point.* when dealing with the fuel inlet hose on the 90-93 accord ive found it easier, and much more sanitary, to just swap out the sohc fuel rail onto the h22. it will bolt right on and look factory.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
This may not apply to fifth gen....^
Install your new engine, and start reconnecting everything.
Leave the VTEC wiring for last. You may want to reroute the wires a bit. After everything else is done, move into the ECU area to finish up.
In 90-93 Accords, there are no pins to switch. In 94-95 Accords, pins A6 and A11 need to be swapped. The ends are different sizes, so the wires do need to be clipped to finish that stage.
Assuming you have that done, start connecting wires. I like to rob ECU harness ends from the junkyard. You can reuse the pins with wires still attached. The harness end opens up. Using a very small screwdriver, you can remove the pins from the donor harness. You will see that there are big and small pins. Choose which you need for each wire to connect.
The VTEC oil pressure switch grounds to the engine, and the blue wire with black stripe connects to D6. The VTEC solenoid valve has a green wire with a yellow stripe, and it connects to A4. The Knock sensor is a red wire with a blue stripe, and goes to D3. The IAB, if you chose, has a pink wire with blue stripe ran to A17.
Use your pinout to find which slot you need for sure. If you need to run a wire to D6, find out what color D4 and D8 are. You can't foul up if you know which wires are to either side. Remember, one row is odd, and the other even. It won't kill you to triple check, because it doesn't take long, and those pins land firmly in place when installed correctly. They only go in one orientation. If twisted, they won't shove in, so don't force them. Do one wire at a time, until finished.
Check for codes.
If you have a code, you probably F***ed up. God bless these codes, they tell you where you f***ed up. To clear the code to check again, disconnect your battery OR pull the ECU fuse for at least 15 seconds.
the point being made is that the h22 swap in an accord has been covered 4353545745325326457347536836345878 times try searching and you might find some answers. Most of the senior members who have tons of great info to share don't want to spoon feed somebody when they have answered the question 15 dozen times before. If you can't take constructive criticisim then you don't belong on the internet, or wasting good air.
accordsir187
New Member
link to a sport compact car writeup on the h22a swap in accords
Accord Chassis with H22 Engine - Tech - Sport
write up by another member of this sight not by me i dont wont to break any web laws
link for manual tensioner conversion.
' Hit The Pavement ' :: H22 Auto to manual Timing belt tensioner Conversion
BASIC H22A INSTALLATION INTO A 4TH GENERATION ACCORD
You start by removing your accessories from your original engine. The AC compressor stays in the engine compartment, while your alternator and power steering pump are removed. I use cable ties to suspend the AC compressor up high and out of the way, strapped to the radiator core. The low pressure line(power steering) should be plugged or the resevoir will drain on the ground. The radiator, battery, battery box, intake piping, radiator hoses, heater hoses(at heater core valve and back of block seem easiest), and coolant resevoir can all be removed also. The wiring harness needs to be removed from the fans on the radiator. You will be pulling against the harness if this is not done before trying to remove it. I usually leave the header connected to the engine, but unbolt it at the first flange. If your original engine has the O2 sensor on the header, it might be a good idea to pull the header shroud off and remove the sensor. Disconnect the main harness plugs at the passenger fender, and disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect transmission linkage. For Auto tranny, disconnect shifter cable underneath, and the lines next to the rear motor mount. You will want some rubber caps for those lines in that case, since they will also keep draining.
Leave the wiring harness in place as much as possible and mark anything you are unsure about with a paint pen. Yellow works nicely. On the intake, I mark the hose numbers. On joining harness ends, I use lines and dots on each side that match each respective connection.
With the car jacked up, and safely suspended on REAL jackstands, I start removing axles. To remove the axles:
The lower ball joint, tie rod end, lower strut bolt, and axle nut must be removed. A ball joint seperator is handy to have, but sometimes a normal pry bar works to pop the ball joint out of it's hole. Once done, a quick lift of the brake rotor will clear it from it's hole. With this loose, remove the splined outer axle end from it's slot. Be careful not to pound on the axle ends or pull the joints too far apart. With an automatic, a small pry bar eases removal from the transmission. A small retaining ring holds them on the inside.
Leave the suspension loose unless you have to roll the car around. There are two main supports for the front end. One runs front to back, and another larger one is held by four large long bolts in the front, and has four short bolts holding braces to the suspension. I prefer to remove this whole thing by removing those eight bolts, to aid in installation(more space).
Hopefully, you have a lift that goes much higher than you need to go. I have done this swap a number of times, so I'll give you the low down. A cherry picker probably won't lift high enough if the car is on jack stands. A chain hoist or come-a-long may lift high enough, but won't roll anywhere. The best way to do this is to have a hoist on a track or a picker that lifts high(maybe a forklift or a bigger cherry picker). Otherwise, I recommend that you be prepared to put the front end back together so you can roll the car out from under the lifted engine, and conversely back under the new engine when the time comes.
Once you are sure which method to use, and have everthing disconnected but the two motor mounts and the tranny mount, prepare to lift the motor. Connect your lifting chain or other safe lifting apparatus to the engine. Lift just slightly against the bolted down engine to support the weight. Loosen each mounting bolt(the horizontal ones). You may find it much easier to lift and drop the motor slightly as you are removing these bolts. I usually pull the drivers mount bolt first, then the tranny mount, then the rear mount. It may also help to loosen the vertical bolts a little, but not too far, because you don't want to pull the bolts out, or strip the last couple of threads from the studs.
Carefully guide the motor out, checking every inch or so for missed lines, wires, or small obstructions like AC lines.
I prefer to do the harness swap outside of the car. The IAB wiring is optional. Many people just run a vacuum hose directly from the IAB to the intake manifold, bypassing the black box. It is a very simple and effective method, and no codes will be thrown. Of course, if you have the EX model, then the IAB wiring will already be present. If you insist on wiring the IAB, make sure you have an unbroken black box with solenoid below your intake manifold. Run the hoses. The black wire with yellow stripe is + power with the key on, and the pink wire goes to the ECU.
Leave VTEC alone at this point, since you will just confuse yourself. You should swap a couple of items right off of the get go from your stock motor. Carefully pull your EGR from the top of your motor. If done nicely, the gasket will not tear. Transplant that item on the H22(direct fit, saves wiring). Next, the front waterneck with the fan switch should be placed on the H22. It has an O-ring gasket, which makes it very simple. Just check the ring for wear. They are dirt cheap to buy, but chances are you don't need one.
Start wrapping the stock harness around your new engine. You'll need to lengthen a few wires. This becomes self explanatory as you go. The VTEC oil pressure sender takes a different end than your stock oil pressure sensor. They essentially do the same thing. I have successfully traded ends on the stock wiring harness. A small circular electrical connector works just fine. That wire is the yellow wire with the red stripe. The knock sensor is above the oil filter, and the VTEC oil pressure sensor is below. Shielded audio wire should be used for the knock sensor if you do not have the original H22 wiring to steal. Leave yourself a nice length of wire, to easily reach into ECU area after routing the wire. The O2 sensor will be relocated to the lower part of the header, so that will also be lengthened. Finally, once you are sure that the rest of your wiring is sound, add the VTEC wires. You should have near the distributor, blue, green, and black wires. The blue and the green wires are sent to the ECU, and the black wire gets grounded somewhere to the engine.
While the motor is out, you'll also want to figure out which accessories you want. I kept my powersteering and AC, so that's how I'll tell you to do it. The brackets on your original block should be switched over. This will keep everything in line. I prefer to use the H22 bracket and pump. This requires that you buy a DOHC prelude hose. I bought one directly from Honda for $140. The lower end of the hose must be gently tweaked to fit the Accord chassis, but it can be done. I suggest you complete this task with the motor out. I did it with my H22 installed, and you don't want to.....Be very careful not to kink the steel. Make smooth gradual bends that don't flatten out the steel. This is important both for flow of fluid, and making sure that you don't scrap a brand new hose. Your other choice is to have a hydraulic shop attach a Prelude top side to your accord hose. I tried, but none of my local shops would touch it. Too much liablity. It can be done though. Some people have told me that they kept the Accord PS pump, and others have told me that there is a clearance issue. I honestly don't know for sure which swaps it works in and the ones that don't work. You can try it, but you won't know until the swap is installed if it works or not. My swap came with the prelude pump, and so I used it.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 24 2005, 04:34 AM
on the power steering pump issue, i just finished an h22 in a 92 auto accord swapped to manual at the same time, i shimmed the accord pump and bracket and it cleared the hood no problem.* just to make sure i did repeated 6000 rpm clutch drops to see if the motor would come up and hit it. no problems whatsoever.
the reason being that the accord pump bracket isnt stepped, so it doesnt match up properly with the h22 block.* so i shimmed the the lower mounting hole with a couple of washers and took care of that problem.* of the 3 most recent h22 accord swaps ive done, only one had a slight clearance issue with this setup; and that was fixed by simply removing the 10mm ground bolt off the top of the pump bracket and slightly bending the line closer to the pump.* the customer has put 12000 miles on this swap now with no issues.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I used an EBAY exhaust manifold. It has worked great for me. I cleaned up the exhaust flange holes before installing it with a die grinder, to ensure smooth flow. That's not necessary, but it certainly didn't hurt. This header relocated my O2 sensor for me, bolted right up to my stock cat, and already had a flex pipe installed. A stainless header for $88 plus shipping. C'mon, you can't beat that. I didn't even have to weld on it. I have been told that the 94-95 Accord has a different length to the cat. You should plan on a trip to the exhaust shop with a fifth gen.
You'll also have to check the number of grooves on your accessory belts. I believe that I used a four groove belt on the for the AC, crank, and alternator. Then a five groove was used for the PS pump to crank belt.
Change your fuel filter, and lengthen the hose if need be(90-93 Accords need to be longer for sure). It's easier to change the filter and disconnect the hoses with the engine out, but reinstalling the fuel line isn't that bad with everything already installed.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 5 2005, 01:28 AM
thanks for the great info... very much right on point.* when dealing with the fuel inlet hose on the 90-93 accord ive found it easier, and much more sanitary, to just swap out the sohc fuel rail onto the h22. it will bolt right on and look factory.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
This may not apply to fifth gen....^
Install your new engine, and start reconnecting everything.
Leave the VTEC wiring for last. You may want to reroute the wires a bit. After everything else is done, move into the ECU area to finish up.
In 90-93 Accords, there are no pins to switch. In 94-95 Accords, pins A6 and A11 need to be swapped. The ends are different sizes, so the wires do need to be clipped to finish that stage.
Assuming you have that done, start connecting wires. I like to rob ECU harness ends from the junkyard. You can reuse the pins with wires still attached. The harness end opens up. Using a very small screwdriver, you can remove the pins from the donor harness. You will see that there are big and small pins. Choose which you need for each wire to connect.
The VTEC oil pressure switch grounds to the engine, and the blue wire with black stripe connects to D6. The VTEC solenoid valve has a green wire with a yellow stripe, and it connects to A4. The Knock sensor is a red wire with a blue stripe, and goes to D3. The IAB, if you chose, has a pink wire with blue stripe ran to A17.
Use your pinout to find which slot you need for sure. If you need to run a wire to D6, find out what color D4 and D8 are. You can't foul up if you know which wires are to either side. Remember, one row is odd, and the other even. It won't kill you to triple check, because it doesn't take long, and those pins land firmly in place when installed correctly. They only go in one orientation. If twisted, they won't shove in, so don't force them. Do one wire at a time, until finished.
Check for codes.
If you have a code, you probably F***ed up. God bless these codes, they tell you where you f***ed up. To clear the code to check again, disconnect your battery OR pull the ECU fuse for at least 15 seconds.
Accord Chassis with H22 Engine - Tech - Sport
write up by another member of this sight not by me i dont wont to break any web laws
link for manual tensioner conversion.
' Hit The Pavement ' :: H22 Auto to manual Timing belt tensioner Conversion
BASIC H22A INSTALLATION INTO A 4TH GENERATION ACCORD
You start by removing your accessories from your original engine. The AC compressor stays in the engine compartment, while your alternator and power steering pump are removed. I use cable ties to suspend the AC compressor up high and out of the way, strapped to the radiator core. The low pressure line(power steering) should be plugged or the resevoir will drain on the ground. The radiator, battery, battery box, intake piping, radiator hoses, heater hoses(at heater core valve and back of block seem easiest), and coolant resevoir can all be removed also. The wiring harness needs to be removed from the fans on the radiator. You will be pulling against the harness if this is not done before trying to remove it. I usually leave the header connected to the engine, but unbolt it at the first flange. If your original engine has the O2 sensor on the header, it might be a good idea to pull the header shroud off and remove the sensor. Disconnect the main harness plugs at the passenger fender, and disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect transmission linkage. For Auto tranny, disconnect shifter cable underneath, and the lines next to the rear motor mount. You will want some rubber caps for those lines in that case, since they will also keep draining.
Leave the wiring harness in place as much as possible and mark anything you are unsure about with a paint pen. Yellow works nicely. On the intake, I mark the hose numbers. On joining harness ends, I use lines and dots on each side that match each respective connection.
With the car jacked up, and safely suspended on REAL jackstands, I start removing axles. To remove the axles:
The lower ball joint, tie rod end, lower strut bolt, and axle nut must be removed. A ball joint seperator is handy to have, but sometimes a normal pry bar works to pop the ball joint out of it's hole. Once done, a quick lift of the brake rotor will clear it from it's hole. With this loose, remove the splined outer axle end from it's slot. Be careful not to pound on the axle ends or pull the joints too far apart. With an automatic, a small pry bar eases removal from the transmission. A small retaining ring holds them on the inside.
Leave the suspension loose unless you have to roll the car around. There are two main supports for the front end. One runs front to back, and another larger one is held by four large long bolts in the front, and has four short bolts holding braces to the suspension. I prefer to remove this whole thing by removing those eight bolts, to aid in installation(more space).
Hopefully, you have a lift that goes much higher than you need to go. I have done this swap a number of times, so I'll give you the low down. A cherry picker probably won't lift high enough if the car is on jack stands. A chain hoist or come-a-long may lift high enough, but won't roll anywhere. The best way to do this is to have a hoist on a track or a picker that lifts high(maybe a forklift or a bigger cherry picker). Otherwise, I recommend that you be prepared to put the front end back together so you can roll the car out from under the lifted engine, and conversely back under the new engine when the time comes.
Once you are sure which method to use, and have everthing disconnected but the two motor mounts and the tranny mount, prepare to lift the motor. Connect your lifting chain or other safe lifting apparatus to the engine. Lift just slightly against the bolted down engine to support the weight. Loosen each mounting bolt(the horizontal ones). You may find it much easier to lift and drop the motor slightly as you are removing these bolts. I usually pull the drivers mount bolt first, then the tranny mount, then the rear mount. It may also help to loosen the vertical bolts a little, but not too far, because you don't want to pull the bolts out, or strip the last couple of threads from the studs.
Carefully guide the motor out, checking every inch or so for missed lines, wires, or small obstructions like AC lines.
I prefer to do the harness swap outside of the car. The IAB wiring is optional. Many people just run a vacuum hose directly from the IAB to the intake manifold, bypassing the black box. It is a very simple and effective method, and no codes will be thrown. Of course, if you have the EX model, then the IAB wiring will already be present. If you insist on wiring the IAB, make sure you have an unbroken black box with solenoid below your intake manifold. Run the hoses. The black wire with yellow stripe is + power with the key on, and the pink wire goes to the ECU.
Leave VTEC alone at this point, since you will just confuse yourself. You should swap a couple of items right off of the get go from your stock motor. Carefully pull your EGR from the top of your motor. If done nicely, the gasket will not tear. Transplant that item on the H22(direct fit, saves wiring). Next, the front waterneck with the fan switch should be placed on the H22. It has an O-ring gasket, which makes it very simple. Just check the ring for wear. They are dirt cheap to buy, but chances are you don't need one.
Start wrapping the stock harness around your new engine. You'll need to lengthen a few wires. This becomes self explanatory as you go. The VTEC oil pressure sender takes a different end than your stock oil pressure sensor. They essentially do the same thing. I have successfully traded ends on the stock wiring harness. A small circular electrical connector works just fine. That wire is the yellow wire with the red stripe. The knock sensor is above the oil filter, and the VTEC oil pressure sensor is below. Shielded audio wire should be used for the knock sensor if you do not have the original H22 wiring to steal. Leave yourself a nice length of wire, to easily reach into ECU area after routing the wire. The O2 sensor will be relocated to the lower part of the header, so that will also be lengthened. Finally, once you are sure that the rest of your wiring is sound, add the VTEC wires. You should have near the distributor, blue, green, and black wires. The blue and the green wires are sent to the ECU, and the black wire gets grounded somewhere to the engine.
While the motor is out, you'll also want to figure out which accessories you want. I kept my powersteering and AC, so that's how I'll tell you to do it. The brackets on your original block should be switched over. This will keep everything in line. I prefer to use the H22 bracket and pump. This requires that you buy a DOHC prelude hose. I bought one directly from Honda for $140. The lower end of the hose must be gently tweaked to fit the Accord chassis, but it can be done. I suggest you complete this task with the motor out. I did it with my H22 installed, and you don't want to.....Be very careful not to kink the steel. Make smooth gradual bends that don't flatten out the steel. This is important both for flow of fluid, and making sure that you don't scrap a brand new hose. Your other choice is to have a hydraulic shop attach a Prelude top side to your accord hose. I tried, but none of my local shops would touch it. Too much liablity. It can be done though. Some people have told me that they kept the Accord PS pump, and others have told me that there is a clearance issue. I honestly don't know for sure which swaps it works in and the ones that don't work. You can try it, but you won't know until the swap is installed if it works or not. My swap came with the prelude pump, and so I used it.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 24 2005, 04:34 AM
on the power steering pump issue, i just finished an h22 in a 92 auto accord swapped to manual at the same time, i shimmed the accord pump and bracket and it cleared the hood no problem.* just to make sure i did repeated 6000 rpm clutch drops to see if the motor would come up and hit it. no problems whatsoever.
the reason being that the accord pump bracket isnt stepped, so it doesnt match up properly with the h22 block.* so i shimmed the the lower mounting hole with a couple of washers and took care of that problem.* of the 3 most recent h22 accord swaps ive done, only one had a slight clearance issue with this setup; and that was fixed by simply removing the 10mm ground bolt off the top of the pump bracket and slightly bending the line closer to the pump.* the customer has put 12000 miles on this swap now with no issues.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I used an EBAY exhaust manifold. It has worked great for me. I cleaned up the exhaust flange holes before installing it with a die grinder, to ensure smooth flow. That's not necessary, but it certainly didn't hurt. This header relocated my O2 sensor for me, bolted right up to my stock cat, and already had a flex pipe installed. A stainless header for $88 plus shipping. C'mon, you can't beat that. I didn't even have to weld on it. I have been told that the 94-95 Accord has a different length to the cat. You should plan on a trip to the exhaust shop with a fifth gen.
You'll also have to check the number of grooves on your accessory belts. I believe that I used a four groove belt on the for the AC, crank, and alternator. Then a five groove was used for the PS pump to crank belt.
Change your fuel filter, and lengthen the hose if need be(90-93 Accords need to be longer for sure). It's easier to change the filter and disconnect the hoses with the engine out, but reinstalling the fuel line isn't that bad with everything already installed.
Quote:
Originally posted by evoracer03@Aug 5 2005, 01:28 AM
thanks for the great info... very much right on point.* when dealing with the fuel inlet hose on the 90-93 accord ive found it easier, and much more sanitary, to just swap out the sohc fuel rail onto the h22. it will bolt right on and look factory.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
This may not apply to fifth gen....^
Install your new engine, and start reconnecting everything.
Leave the VTEC wiring for last. You may want to reroute the wires a bit. After everything else is done, move into the ECU area to finish up.
In 90-93 Accords, there are no pins to switch. In 94-95 Accords, pins A6 and A11 need to be swapped. The ends are different sizes, so the wires do need to be clipped to finish that stage.
Assuming you have that done, start connecting wires. I like to rob ECU harness ends from the junkyard. You can reuse the pins with wires still attached. The harness end opens up. Using a very small screwdriver, you can remove the pins from the donor harness. You will see that there are big and small pins. Choose which you need for each wire to connect.
The VTEC oil pressure switch grounds to the engine, and the blue wire with black stripe connects to D6. The VTEC solenoid valve has a green wire with a yellow stripe, and it connects to A4. The Knock sensor is a red wire with a blue stripe, and goes to D3. The IAB, if you chose, has a pink wire with blue stripe ran to A17.
Use your pinout to find which slot you need for sure. If you need to run a wire to D6, find out what color D4 and D8 are. You can't foul up if you know which wires are to either side. Remember, one row is odd, and the other even. It won't kill you to triple check, because it doesn't take long, and those pins land firmly in place when installed correctly. They only go in one orientation. If twisted, they won't shove in, so don't force them. Do one wire at a time, until finished.
Check for codes.
If you have a code, you probably F***ed up. God bless these codes, they tell you where you f***ed up. To clear the code to check again, disconnect your battery OR pull the ECU fuse for at least 15 seconds.
norcalgsr
Honda Master Technician
This topic has been covered hundreds of times on this board alone, and if you actually took the time to do 10 minutes of research you would probably find everything you need. Shit, the first page of a Google search will bring up enough information for most people to do the swap in their driveway..
91_civic_si
Member
I never heard of an "accod"