accord engine into a 91 Hatch

[91SiF22B]

I posted this in the wrong section... so here, im gonna post it again.

hey guys im new here and to honda performance and honda swapping... but here is what i have


i have a 91 civic SI Hatch and a 96 accord EX with the SOHC F22B engine.

im going to turn the 91 hatch into a full drag car, as my tiburon gets me around where i need to go anyway. with the help of my brother, we are thinking about pulling out the f22 and forgeing the motor and putting it, with a turbo, into a gutted trailer queen hatch. will the motor fit into the hatch if im not going to need the PS, alternator, or A/C? remember, its going to be full race, trailered to and from a racetrack.

any help/info/resources on the swap or race parts that i can get would be great.
this car is in no way going to be driven on the street, so everything is going to be gone, except for what is absolutely necessary.


and also, is there a head i can put on the f22 to make it DOHC? just wondering.

thanks again to anyone who can help out.

 

[pelicangsr]

u should go to quarter sport drag..
you can buy a conversion kit that will let u put a f,h series engine on a b series tranny.. why a b series tranny? for the better gear ratio.. and all you have to do is use b-series motor mounts.. because accord/prelude trannies are really hard because theyre not cable transmissions...

 

[Z6CRX]

H22 heads can be put on those, but I don't know the modifications off hand.
Theres also a Del Sol on HondaTech that someone put a H22 in the rear, as well as an Integra.
I also have an H2b kit for sale.

 

[blackice90HB]

If you wish to make more work for yourself instead of boosting the d-series...
H22 head, OBD1 conversion
Chipped P28 to run H series
H-B tranny kit
Custom Mounts (dont know anybody who sells EF-F series mounts, try H22 mounts and mod them)
Si harness might mork, start schematic digging now.
forged internals aint hard to find, search the net...

You really should find a shitbox DX to whore up instead o0f an SI, Si's are getting rare and hard to find, especially in good condition.

 

[Z6CRX]

Agreed.
A DX is also lighter.
an H2B though would require hood modification or cowling for an ED/EF, and either notching the driver framerail, an aftermarket crank pulley may be able to clear. but it will be close, so pounding it like a b16 swap will be likely.

and the H2B uses the B series drive train so IT USES B SERIES MOUNTS!.

 

[USDM CRX DX-R]

Actually, the best Civic HB to use would be a 1988-1989 STD (or CX, if you lie in Canada). This is by far the cheapest and lightest. If your 1991 SI is in good shape, you could possibly ake a decent profit by selling it and buying a 1988-1989 STD HB.

 

[norcalgsr]

It's only a few hundred pounds.. I don't know that it would be worth selling the car over.

 

[USDM CRX DX-R]

It's only a few hundred pounds.. I don't know that it would be worth selling the car over.

On a car that weighs ~2000 pounds, a few hundred pounds is well over a 10% difference. This is VERY significant. Think of that percent weight decrease as having the same effect as the same percent power/torque increase. If, for instance, the weight decrease is 12%, and the power is 200HP, the weight decrease is like adding 24HP, which is actually ALOT. Furthermore, there is the money issue. An SI hatch in good condition costs ALOT more than an early STD HB. Why not sell the SI, buy the STD, and have $1000 (or more) to put into the motor and swap?

 

[Z6CRX]

No matter what it is it can still be made lighter.

I like to call it the sawzall mod

 

[USDM CRX DX-R]

I'd still sell the SI for the cash. You can pick up a STD for almost nothing compared towhat you can get for an SI.

 

[norcalgsr]

He's building a full drag car so everything is going to be removed anyway. I'm sure the weight difference is nowhere near that much when you strip the car down to a shell. And as hard as those cars are to find in good shape these days that's a lot of trouble for not a lot of gain.

Anyhow, this whole discussion isn't helping the OP out at all. You can put the F22 in to the hatch, and an H series head should also fit on it, but it's really not the best option for you. If you're going for a full drag car you might want to think about running an H22 or H23 and running a turbo on that instead. It's a much better engine than the F22 and has a lot more torque as well. Considering you're not going to drive it on the street at all you might as well stick the biggest engine you can in there. It's going to be expensive any way you look at it to build a dedicated full race car.

 

[Uncle Buck]

ok the F22 bottomend is a wise choice.... iron sleeves FTMFW....

you can put the H22 head on the F22, you will gain about 40hp and at the same time you retain the low compression..... (H22 is a high compression motor so it doesnt like that high of boost without being properly built).....

the F22 is a good choice also for the fact that you can buy them cheap and they take some serious abuse... you can pick up a H22 head online for less then $500.... H22 will cost you $1200 AT THE CHEAPEST

also you will need to change the water pump off the F22 to use a H22 one... something about the teeth on the pully


lastly..... iam doin the same exact build actually so ive already done some research lol

i could be wrong on some of these things so dont take my word for it