Alternator?? 65, 80, 130 amps???

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92dxhatch

92dxhatch

Senior Member
i know now that my voltage regulator in my eg is built into the alternator, now my question is what amp rating do i go? its not like i'm going to supply a 2000 watt stereo system or even add a ton of electricalcomponents. the only thing i have added to date is a better deck, and fog lights. just a question i had, let me know your thoughts on this situation, thanks

!ryan
 
You only need a 65 amp alt for a job like that. I'm sure you could run a few hundred extra watts in addition to what you want to run and still be just fine.
 
If you are not going to add anything else you should be fine. But if you are trying to add a 2000 watt sound system your are going to have to step up to something bigger. I would plan ahead and grab something now so you don't have to buy later. Make sure when you plan your system that you go off of rms not peak. Because a true 2000 watts system is not going to work off of 65 amps.
 
A lower amp alternator has less parasitic drag on the motor resulting in higher efficiency and more horsepower.
 
appreciate the info, i'm going to stick to the the stock 65 amps, i plan on putting a sub and an amp, so i think 65 will be just fine. plus i'd rather have less drag and more power to my little motor :)

~Ryan
 
Just don't try to put a monster sound system and you will be fine. If you do you just burn out the alt that you have. Its no biggy, Just get one that has a lifetime warrenty. Or your if you still try to do it off of it with a small alt. Your amps will just motorboat and run hot. And you would have distrorted sound. You can plan a nice sytem with your alt. Just don't over do it. :D
 
Not necessarily is that true about burning out your alternator with a big system. If you try to put a huge system in there, you would also need to upgrade your battery. The secondary problem with putting in a huge system with the stock alternator is you need to upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the battery and the ground for it as well.
 
Your half right. But a big system will kill your alternator. Most alternators have a 40% reserve bank. No if you have this big system stock battery, stock alternator something is going to give. Reason the battery goes first is because most stock batteries can not handel being drained to a discharge state and recover back to a full charge state. Over time this kills your battery. And it will never be the same. You can have your system playing and it will drain your battery while the car is running, hell while you are driving it. Now while your battery is dead guess what running your system. Its your alternator. Now its trying to charge your dead battery, run your car, and play your sound system. Can you say stress and a burned out regulator. And if you put to big of a power wire on your alt you run the chance of melting the power nut and bolt on the alternator. Because of resitance.
 
i call B/S on the larger wire causing the post and nut to melt
larger wire does not have more reistance and theis is not what is causing it what would cause this is if you have a large systen the pullmore power than you alat is rated at it will start to melt the post is probaly only rated at 70amps and if you rinit that way for 10min it will be hot i can guarnatee it thats why the do things like overrate them by 40% so there is a safety factor. hell you can probaly run a 2000 watt rms system on 8awg but it will melt in a short period of time do to it having a higher reistance then say 4 or 0awg
 
92dxhatch said:
appreciate the info, i'm going to stick to the the stock 65 amps, i plan on putting a sub and an amp, so i think 65 will be just fine. plus i'd rather have less drag and more power to my little motor :)

~Ryan
Click to expand...

i changed my mind!!!! i'm going with an 85 amp alter! just because i'd like to be in the safe zone with my stereo, its nothing big, plus i'll have two small amps, one for the speakers and one for my single sub.

if you don't think that will be enough, let me know before tommorow! but i am pretty possitive that i will be in the clear.

thanks again for all the help, much appreciated!

~Ryan
 
I Dunno

Im not sure what you can do with what, but what i do know is that i do run 2000watts of my stock alternator. It does good and thats fine with me. I can prove it will hold it also, its been this way for 6 months. P.s. 144.7 db and climbing.
 
acctually, i've noticed a big differnece, i was given a 135 amp alternator, my lights are much brighter, and my stereo can handle more without distorting. i like it. i'd rather pay for something like this than for a stock one @ the same price!
 
95civicjdmgsr said:
Im not sure what you can do with what, but what i do know is that i do run 2000watts of my stock alternator. It does good and thats fine with me. I can prove it will hold it also, its been this way for 6 months. P.s. 144.7 db and climbing.
Click to expand...

And how much voltage is your amps receiving. If your amps are not receiving a steady 14-15 volts your not getting your 2000 watts what so ever. Your going to lose alot of power for ever volt that is dropped. List what your system is. You must be looking at peak not rms. And I know your not doing 2000 watts rms off of the stock charging system. especialy in a honda!:lol:
 
What Im Running off stock alt.

1-Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
1-HIFONICS BXi2006D Class D Mono Amplifier Amp
3-Alpine SWR-1022D 10" Type-R Series Subwoofers
[FONT=verdana, arial, courier new]1-Optima 870 Yellow Top[/FONT]
1-pair Sony 4-ways in the door(I ran outta money)
1-pair Pioneer 3-ways in the back deck(was still broke)
 

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that deck is nice, i have the same but its the premier version of it. has a few extra feature i like. nice set up by the way.

i also wanted to point out that your not exactly pushing 2000 watts, you amp may be pushing 1500, most manufactures list a high wattage, but usually its never going to put out that much. just a thought to you saying ist a 2000 watt system, when looking at it logically, you may be closer to a 1000. i could be wrong, but just with my little experience, this is what i have seen.

it still a great system, better than what i have (except the for the deck) :lol:
 
rounded up

I wired it down to 1.33 or 1.35 ohms I cant remember and it runs stable pulling 1850 watts, I just rounded it up to 2000 (it was easier). My main problem is with all the power it pulls and the fact that I never upgraded any of the wiring to the amp since I put this all in is that i melt the fuse blocks.
 

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At burp with the Hifonics and second batt, you definatly could get the 2K watts. My Memphis Mojo, dropping only .8V and seeing a good impedence rise can still put out near 1700watts. Cant wait to drop it down to .5ohm.

BTW, how do you like those type r's. Are they really the messiah of cheap woofers? And, are you ported on the passenger side with that box?
 
Suprised

I was suprised to see how well they are holding up, I paid $110 sub/shipping each new just figuring that after about 3 months Id have to get something else cause I would have blown them but that was 9 months ago and they still sound like the day I put them in. And yes I have a tuned port on the pass side of the box, which was kinda an expirment I didnt have room on the front of the box where I usually port my boxes. LESSON LEARNED DONT BUILD BOXES DRUNK. lol
 
YELLOW TOPS AND A "SMART" SOLENOID
All anyone needs to successfully run any decent amplification is a 3-pole trucker's solenoid and a secondary battery.

The solenoid, will give priority to tthe starting battery... so the you're not left at the local hangout parking lot, lookin' like a chump.

The seconadry battery gets wired from the solenoid, so you're going to have to run charge lines, BOTH Pos, and Neg. "Look it up before you Hook it up"

That oughta save you havin' to spend your hard-earned beer money on a new ECU.

1/0 cable should be good for upgrading..... that is if you're obsessive-compulsive like me. Remember to not only Upgrade your factory grounds..(all3), but also add another ground to the chassis.

Here's my Resume:

Rockford Fosgate 2003 Ford Escape DEMO Vehicle
MTX 2004 Hyundai Tiburon DEMO Vehicle
Sony Xplod 2003Dodge SX 2.0...(the yellow jellybean)
JBL sponsored Honda Civic
Infinty 2005 Mustang GT DEMO Vehicle
Performance Honda 2004 Civic SI Hatchback

As far as the guy who was talkin' about doing some funky kinda melting of wire....
I submit this for your review:
Copper wire gage table - Chapter 3: CONDUCTOR AND INSULATOR TABLES - Volume V - Reference
Copper wire Guage table.....who'da thunk it?:rolleyes:

Originally Posted by 95civicjdmgsr
Im not sure what you can do with what, but what i do know is that i do run 2000watts of my stock alternator. It does good and thats fine with me. I can prove it will hold it also, its been this way for 6 months. P.s. 144.7 db and climbing.

144.7dB and climbing??????...
unless you're swithching your box to something better every time you RTA your system.... i seriously doubt that your SPL is increasing. Sorry, but i'm a stickler for accuracy.
Cheers
dbadct@hotmail.com
 
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