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amp not getting power

Discussion in 'Car Audio / Security / Electronic Accessories' started by civicorprelude67, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    so i just got my new 95 hatch and the previous owner said that the car was already wired for a amp and sub. I hooked everything up and my amp isnt getting any power to my amp. I have check the fuse in the power cable and on the amp, there both fine. And whats wierd is he has 1 power cord coming from the battery and has spliced them together into 2 totally differnt cables. 1 cable is running on the drivers side and the other is under the center console, and only 1 is running to the back. And i have no clue where the other one has gone. I dont even think the remote wire is plugged into the deck. But even with the remote not hooked up i should have power to my amp regardless right? there is a green light on the amp saying it has power but its not lit up. And what is worse i cant get the stupid deck out to see whats hooked up and what isnt. I took off the front plastic piece where the lighter and ashtray is and removed the screws holding it in place. Im not sure why is shouldnt just slide out?? What am i doing wrong here?
    thanks for the help
  2. 1993hondadelsol

    1993hondadelsol New Member

    it will not power on with out a remote
    1 person likes this.
  3. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    well it should still say its getting power at least?
  4. 94civicturbo

    94civicturbo New Member

    use a test light and see if the power wire has power, i know mine the light doesnt light up till the remote is turned on
    1 person likes this.
  5. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    is a test light the tool that you touch to your chassis and take the pointed end and touch it on the wire to see if it lights up?
  6. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard


    The amp does need remote power to turn on. If it didn't, your amp would be on at all times and cause a parisitic drain which leads to your battery being killed everytime your car is not running.
    1 person likes this.
  7. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    alright, well i need to get the deck out to make get the remote wire hooked up. But i cant manage to take it out. Like i said i took the screws out underneith it, and the deck is in the sleeve that is around the deck, but i thought it should just slide out....something still has to be holding it in, but i cant figure it out.
  8. Taco15

    Taco15 I wear stretchy pants

    just to test it out run an ignition wire to the remote input. That way it powers up when the key is in the acc or on position. If it doesnt play or come on then something is wrong with either power,ground or you amp.

    What size wire are you running to what size amp?
    1 person likes this.
  9. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    how would i run an ignition wire?
    and i believe its 8 gauge and a 250 rms amp and its monster cable so its not the cheap stuff
  10. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion

    I am guessing this is an aftermarket deck. You need to use a special 'key' to unlock the deck from its cage. Go to a local stereo shop that sells your brand and ask them to pop it open for you (takes 10 seconds). Then it should come out so you can check the wiring. I would also strongly suggest you buy a new 8 gauge power line from battery to amp. If its just one amp, 8 gauge is my vote. You can do 10 gauge but I don't suggest that. If its 2 amps...you need 4 gauge to a distribution box by the amps. Then 8 gauge to each amp. By your description of the wiring job, it sounds like the village idiot was the only person around to give the previous owner advise. If the RCA's are crappy, just buy an amp kit and call it good.

    The remote line is very important. The amp will not turn on without it being hooked up. It is what tells the amp to turn on. The deck turns on, power is then ran to the 'remote' wire which transfers a constant signal to the amp and tells it to get to work. When the deck shuts off...so does the amp.

    Try not to run an ignition wire. It will work but just not worth your time. It sounds like its your amp (in which you know it works) and you jsut want the stereo working. Get the deck unlocked, clean up the wiring problem and go from there.
    1 person likes this.
  11. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    yes it is an aftermarket deck, but seems a little older. Oh thats why it wont just come out? what does this key look like? and behind the face plate it says "security" is that where this key goes?
    I understand what the remote does i just wasent sure if the amp would still turn on without the remote
    but thanks for the help
  12. justastockef

    justastockef New Member

    what kind of radio is it? a small straight slotted screwdriver slid down the sides of the radio should be all you need to free the radio from the cage.
    to test the amp:
    turn the vehicle off.....
    get a piece of wire (speaker wire will work) about 12" long
    strip both ends of the wire about 1/2" at each end
    touch one side to the main power wire of the amp and the other end will go to the remote wire screw on the amp
    if the amp lights up then you have main power but no remote power
    its called the remote cause it "remotely" turns on the amp whenever your radio is on.

    if i were you i would recommend taking it to a competent stereo shop. i think you would be better off letting them troubleshoot it so you don't ruin what equipment you do have.
    40-50.00 spent at a COMPETENT shop is better than having to go out and buy all new equipment cause you f'd something up.
    1 person likes this.
  13. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    its panasonic. And yea tried using a staight screwdriver to wedge it out but still wouldnt budge.
    Alright, so i disconnect everything and take speaker wire and touch one end to the main power on the amp and the other to the remote on the amp, and see if it lights up? I have some pretty intelligent friends and i have done this twice before, its just i have no idea how the previous owner wired it...
    but thanks for the help
  14. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone



    to get the radio out, just drive down to the hood or getto and leave it unlocked overnight

    ***Disclaimer: Caboose is not responsable if your radio or entire car gets lost or stolen
  15. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    oh those are what takes it out?
    i have those from my other jvc deck, ill see if those work
  16. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    well i got the sub working! it was the remote wire not being plugged in and i finally figured out how to get the deck out, there was a little button you have to push so it slides out
    but thanks for the help everyone.
  17. 94civicturbo

    94civicturbo New Member

    thought so. lol.
  18. robbase252

    robbase252 New Member

    no power

    i been in car audio for fifteen yrs. if remote is not hooked up... you won t get any power to the amp... the remote is what tells the amp to turn on... rmote wire has voltage too... the wire spliced isn t good either... voltage drop... need to be a uncut power wire... hope this will help...:cool::cool:
    1 person likes this.
  19. civicorprelude67

    civicorprelude67 New Member

    well its spliced right before the firewall in the engine bay. I dont even know where the other power cable is going...or why it would even be there. Any ideas??
  20. Taco15

    Taco15 I wear stretchy pants

    TRACK THAT WIRE DOWN! the last you need is the other remote wire grounding itself and frying your radio AND amp.

    It prolly goes to some light or something.

    power wire should be no less than 8awg. 4awg is the ideal if you can afford it. make sure all wiring is correctly secured and properly crimped.

    post some pics man!

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