Well had 4 engine codes that would not freaking go away... Hint: to everyone out there, if you have a code for IAC, Electronic load detector, O2 sensor, and a Vtec pressure solenoid then you have the automatic ECU and not the manual ECU you need... Codes (14, 20, 22, 41) Swap Details - ODB1 B18C1 into a Honda civic CX hatch 1996 - This is the first time I have ever done anything in the civics engine bayâ€¦ the most I have ever done before to a car is a water pump on my Taurus.. I like to think of my self as a handy man though. (I would do this again in a heart beat) My Swap... - B18C Engine arrives in driveway along with axels, shift linkage, ECU, Harness converter and mounts all from the same distributor - Remove the old engine from my CX and break 2 bolts in the process..... - Check the B18C and the pulley on the crank is cracked (Buy a light weight one $100ish) - Go to put on the lightweight pulley and break the bolt inside the crank (Screw extractors are my new best friend) - Remove the AC and power steering junk - Replace the timing belt $200 (took 2 days to order) - Try and put the engine in, Rear mount sent was wrong. (Scratch the shit out of the engine bay) - Order new mount from Honda (told them SIR rear mount) (took 2 days to order) - Mount arrives, drive home, its from a CRX and does not fit (took 2 days to order again) - Side stud on engine doesn't meet up to mount.... buy SIR stud. (Took 2 days to order $80) - Finally get engine in, (took about 2 weeks in total) - Put in shift linkage... itâ€™s the wrong length - Distributor tells me I have to cut it.... I wont after spending $150 on it - Made a hybrid from the old one and the 7-inch chunk that came on the engine. Put it on car and it doesnâ€™t quite work right. - Find a really nice one that will fit in Edmonton AB, off an EK9 - Edmonton said they would get one in stock tomorrow (they said this every day for 2 weeks) - Got pissed off and bought an SI one from Honda $200 + bushings ($15) - Bought short though shifter ($120) - Try to put in Axels, one has striped threads, the other has a ripped boot. - I used them as cores to buy new ones ($300) - Try to hook up gas pedal... damn cable wont work, order Acura cable (took 2 days cost about $80) - Hook up again, Still wont fit right, so I bolt it on higher and bend it a bit.. works now. - Wire ODB2 harness to ODB1 (found a great document for this)(Donâ€™t follow my lead, do this when the engine is out.) - Go to plug it into the ECU and once again they sold me the wrong one (took 2 days to sort that out) - Takes about 3 tries to find the perfect size belt for the new pulley and buy the right rad hoses etc. - Fill with fluids and start.... runs like shit... ($50ish for fluids) - Look at ECU and it says GSR on it in pen but the sticker for -P72- is gone... - Return that too to the vender, get new one. (it was for a civic SI) - Plug new one in, 4 engine codes. (Above). - Use that ECU to drive to get exhaust installed $900 - Replace Vtec solenoid, replace IAC, Replace O2 heat sensor same codes ($200 for parts) - Take car to shop - They have it for 2 and a half months and fixed nothing. + broke my hood release - Fix hood release $20 - Went and took my car back, brought it to a new guy out his garage ( I call him HERO ) - He looked at it for a hour and says "do you know you have a manual transmission ECU" paid him ($300 we previously agreed on this flat rate) - Take ECU back to dealer, he has no ECU's (says it will be a month then he gets one) - Bought another ECU online in the meanwhile ($240) - Hooked up new ECU (ALL CELâ€™s go off) - Off to the races CAR RUNS LIKE A FREAKEN CHARM and the only part that I originally got that was the right part was the engine and tranny. The main reason this took so long is because I only really have weekends free, and every part was the wrong part. My engine distributor got frustrated with me bringing back partsâ€¦ it was allâ€¦ all his fault, MAKE SURE YOU BUY FROM SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WTF THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. He was an excellent source for misinformation.