another sway bar ?

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ahedau

Senior Member
all this talk about anti-sway/roll bars has me wanting to chime in.

I've got a VX that came with no rear or front bars. In prep to auto-x I have.. FRONT: Eibach Sportlines on stock shocks, & an e-Bay special strut bar plus Brembo slotted/x-drilled rotors & EBC green pads. REAR: KYB AGX w/ Ground Control C/O and a GS-R lower roll bar complete swap in on the way. I have 195/60/14 BFG for my daily 38 mile commute TO work and a set of 195/60/14 Azenis for "racing".

Here's my ?... Since I'm going from no bar on both ends to a 17mm rear bar should I add an anti-roll bar, radius rods, both or leave the front stock?

thanks :D
 
that bar will not be the best for autoX. You want a more agressive bar then that. Suspension technique, nuespeed, progress, OEM ITR ect are the kind of bars you should look at. Your going to have to buy new LCA's to have something to mount endlinks on. Any 3rd gen integras will do as well as 5th gen civics that had sways (si's, del sol VTEC, ex's maybe.)

also the next question is, what mods do you have on your car? The best way to compete in a honda is to run in stock class
 
You don't have to buy new LCAs for most aftermarket kits. They use usually use clamps to mount to your car.
 
shit, i have 2 14mm sway bars in my garage, you want one for free? lol, they just take up space. asmallsol is right, the onese he listed would be better, but i think having a 14mm on there, with no front sway, will still be better than not having one at all. but, if you're going through all the trouble might as well do it right the first time right? also, i've heard of the green stuff pads wearing pretty quick in auto-x/road race, look into hawk hp+ or ferodo. i have feroodo on my sol now and they hold up great for weekend HPDE's. you might want to get some better front shocks, your rear looks good. also be careful with slotted/drilled rotors, under extreme heat they can crack, although my wilwood rotors never cracked, but i have seen it happen.
 
The greenstuff was free b/c a "friend" upgraded to Hawk. I figured I'd use them just while auto-x until they needed replacing as they have to be better than OEM.

I jumped the gun on the rotors. I shouldv'e waited and got the EBC grooved/dippled but, oh well!

I'm on a tight budget and figured that going from nothing to a 14mm bar in the rear had to be an improvement. The swap includes the both LCA, endlinks, bushings, bar, bolts, brackets, EVERYTHING

I agree I should upgrade the front shocks too and will do that but I figured I could start now and see how it shakes out.

I have to compete in DSP due to irreversable mods (a/b removed for MOMO steering wheel, braided brake lines on the front, something about bump-stops and another thing i can't remember at this hour) done by the previous owner before I bought the car. These prevent me from running Stock and even ST (Damn MOMO steering wheel!).

I'm in it to improve my driving and push the car. If I like it as much as I think, I'll build a car strictly for auto-x. Besides, locally I'll win every month....there are no cars in my class :lol: :lol:

thanks for you suggestions!
 
nice, then yes, a 14mm bar in the rear is better than nothing, and good to keep the rear end stiffer than the front.
 
know anyone that runs a torsion bar on the rear? I've read they tear up the sub-frame. Anyways, I may add one on those too. First, I want to see how twitchy it'll be with just the sway bar.

As it is now the rearend breaks away when I lift while turning (who says you can't drift a FWD ?! ^_^
 
a sway bar kinda is a torsion bar, it functions the same way... for the stock sway bar you dont need to worry about sub frame tear out, when you go to the ITR sizes then you need a re-enforcement kit from either beaks or bsq, or comptech.
 
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