Any good places to buy some good brakes?

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MarkJimenez99

Senior Member
Does anybody know of any good websites or places I can purchase a big brake kit. I really want to buy the Wilwood big brake kit for the front. Larger rotors would look sweet behind my Racing Hart rims. My stock brakes suck and it's making an annoying squeal now. (Anybody know how to fix that?) I have a 99 Civic DX. I was looking at some other brands like AEM and it didn't have applications for my model(DX). I thought that the application would be identical to all models. Are there really any significant differences? Wilwood did have a specific application for my model so I'll just stick with Wilwood. I'm in the SF bay area by the way. Any help is appreciated.
 
i used to have the 4pot 13" rotor wilwood kit, its great, i loved it. HAP in rancho cordova sells it for $650 http://www.haprecycling.com which is the best i could find them for. the AEM one is crap, dont bother.
 
Originally posted by MarkJimenez99@Aug 15 2003, 09:40 AM
Thanks. Did you install them yourself? If so, how did the install go?

yes, easy if you've ever changed pads and rotors, you can tackle this no problem.
 
if you've ever changed pads and rotors


I've never changed pads and rotors. How about "bleeding the brake fluid" process? Was that an easy step? Do you remember how long the install took? Hmmm, I guess I'll try the install myself.
 
Originally posted by MarkJimenez99@Aug 15 2003, 10:00 AM
if you've ever changed pads and rotors


I've never changed pads and rotors. How about "bleeding the brake fluid" process? Was that an easy step? Do you remember how long the install took? Hmmm, I guess I'll try the install myself.

could have taken a couple hours, but i stripped a hard line and had to get a new one, rebend it, and put it in (pain in the arse). bleeding is easy, get yourself a manual if you dont know what you're doing.
 
I just got my wilwood big brake kit and I have a few questions.

Do you really have to "Safety wire" the 8 screws on the hat to the rotor?

Also, which rotor goes on which side? Does it matter? I noticed arrows on each of the rotors. One points left while the other points right. I looked at the diagram and it showed a rotor for the left side application. So I matched the rotor that looked like the one in the instructions. I noticed that this rotor had an arrow pointing right. Those arrows are confusing me. I thought that the rotor with the arrow pointing left would be for the left side?

I hope I made some sense. Any help would be great. Thanks.

I want to make sure I do this install right.
 
yes, definatley safety wire the rotors, there should be holes in the mounting bracket bolts as well, saftey wire those too. get a set of safety wire pliers, makes it easier, or use needle nose. i'm not sure about the arrows, mine didn't have them. maybe its for direction of rotation? could you post a pic?
 
As for the bleeding thing, it is very easy. I changed my entire brake fluid about 2 weeks ago and it took a little less then 45 minutes. All you have to do is have a freind pump the brakes about 5 times, then have him apply pressure to the brakes, open the bleeder screw, have your freind push down the pedal all the way down, then close the bleeder screw then your safe to let off the pedal. Keep repeating and every once in a while, check the fluid level and add when nessicary. Start at the Rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger, then Front rear. I would just go ahead and change the whole fluid to a good dot 4 (ATE superblue is good stuff and very cheap (10 a can) Get a clear hose put it on the nipple of the bleeder screw, then put the other end in a clear bottle. If your switching to superblue, when the fuild turns to DARK blue (it starts out brown (old fluid) then green (old and new fluid mixed) then dark blue). When your all done with a side, tighten the bleeder screw all the way, then go to the next caliper
 
I installed my brakes yesterday and you were right, it was easy, b16. The only really troublesome thing was removing the two screws to get to the rotor and the screw on the hard line. I didn't have the right size wrench for the hard line and I stripped it so I just used pliers. I had to buy an impact tool to remove the screws. They look sweet. Thanks for your help, guys.
 
Originally posted by asmallsol@Aug 29 2003, 08:18 PM
I would just go ahead and change the whole fluid to a good dot 4 (ATE superblue is good stuff and very cheap (10 a can)

Does it really matter what kind of brake fluid to use? I was told that I should use 580 degree race brake fluid. That's what I'm using. My car is a daily driver. Is this a good idea or should I rebleed with a different brake fluid? I haven't abused my brakes yet since I'm still breaking the pads in. Honestly, they feel and stop like my stocks right now. I haven't tried braking hard with them yet.
 
580 fluid is more than fine, that is a higher boiling point than the ATE.
get on them brakes man, they're made to be abused :) what pads are you using? the wilwood pads that came with my kit sucked for track use, ok for daily driving.. i would suggest hawk hp+ for those brakes, they're pretty cheap too, compared to hawk for stock honda brakes, they grab much better but make more noise.
 
Originally posted by B16@Sep 3 2003, 04:27 PM
i would suggest hawk hp+ for those brakes, they're pretty cheap too, compared to hawk for stock honda brakes, they grab much better but make more noise.

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for your help. I'm using the pads that came with the kit. Are those hawk hp+ low dust?
 
No, they don't produce a shit load of dust, but they do produce some. Definately more than your stock pads did.
 
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