hondacivicSit3
Member
I just downloaded uberdata and I was trying to figure it out before I start tuning on my car, but the thing looks so confusing, I cant figure out what anything means can somebody help me on how to use it. thanks
any one no how to use uberdata
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you really need to read up. pgmfi.org know it well. i wouldnt touch anything until you have a wideband and know what you are doing.
but basically the map is layed out in terms of the map reading (vacuum) and RPM. the numbers represent the duration of the injector. obviously the higer the number, the more fuel. you are gonna want to datalog the afr's and change these numbers accordingly to get a nice afr across the board.
like i said i wouldnt even touch it without datalogging and a wideband o2 sensor. go read up on pgmfi.org and homemadeturbo.com knowledge is power.
but basically the map is layed out in terms of the map reading (vacuum) and RPM. the numbers represent the duration of the injector. obviously the higer the number, the more fuel. you are gonna want to datalog the afr's and change these numbers accordingly to get a nice afr across the board.
like i said i wouldnt even touch it without datalogging and a wideband o2 sensor. go read up on pgmfi.org and homemadeturbo.com knowledge is power.
tuning 101, by pissedoffsol.
#1- get all the gear needed.
this includes the software, a wideband, a romulator/emulator, and a chip burner. other gauges and such help too. egt especially for turbo cars
#2- don't even try it unless you have datalogging setup. otherwise, you have no real idea where are on the map. with a turbo car its a little easiers, because you have a boost gauge... but very few all motor cars run a vacuum gauge. datalogging will allow you to record a pull, play it back and see whats happening at X rpm and Y millibar.
#3- don't even try it unless the car is running good. it's impossible to tune a car that has problems. work out all the bugs first.
#4- make changes in very little increments. if it looks like you need more fuel at X rpm and Y millibar, highlight the 6 cells in that area, and make a slight adjustment. repeat until it looks good. then fine tune out the 6 cells to like 2 or 3
#5- WRITE DOWN what you do. often a change can fubar the whole map, so right down what you changed so you can go back. there is no "UNDO" button... so you have to know what you're doing.
#6- screw uberdata. get crome. its light years better IMO.
#7- take your time, don't rush it, and if you aren't sure, STOP and come back here and ask. 1 wrong move could cost you thousands in repairs.
#8- tune a/f first. leave the ignition map alone. get the whole fuel map straight and clean. all motor shoot for 13.2:1 a/f's across the board at EVERY throttle position. tuning full throttle is the easiest. the part throttle tuning is the hard part. BUT, if you have a good wideband and crome pro ($150), there's an auto tune feature that works pretty damn good. basically, you set a target a/f in the program, and then crome will take the wideband reading and make adjustments to the map as you drive based on what its getting back from the wideband. after you have the a/fs straight, its time to make power-- ignition tuning.
#9- too much advance can lead to pinging. too little will lead to no power. be conservative in your tuning. if it pings, drop it back 2 clicks instead of 1 to be safe. maybe even 3 if you want to be real safe. variances in fuel, temperature, heat, and air pressure can effect your tune, so its good to give it some room
#10- watch someone else. if you know anyone who has the stuff, see if you can tg along sometime when they tune a car. chill in the back seat and watch what they do.
this could be bad though-- inexperienced tuners might not know wtf they are doing either and could teach you to do everything the wrong way.
#11- if you have the cash, the time, and there's a show near by, i HIGHLY suggest you hit up ben straders efi 101 class. I've been trying to get to it for a long time now, but something always comes up. but the people who have gone have all spoken HIGHLY of the class. http://www.efi101.com
#12- learning the actual software is sometimes the hardest part. you can't tune a car if you can't figure out what you're doing with it. play with it. download some sample bin's off line, import them, and look at the tune. you can get a general idea of how things should look. for example, ignition maps in the upper milibar and low rpm are usually in the negatives-- retarded timing. that way, when your dumbass decides to florr it in 5th gear when you're doing 15 mph, you don't ping to shit. stock honda maps are available for the popular ecu's and are usually built into the sfotware. open one up, save it as a test file with a new name, and explore.
#13- read pill's sample how-to from his tuning experience.
https://hondaswap.com/~pills/hondatatuning.html
this was written for hondata, but the basic gist of it applies.
#14- if you're near ct, give me a holler
#1- get all the gear needed.
this includes the software, a wideband, a romulator/emulator, and a chip burner. other gauges and such help too. egt especially for turbo cars
#2- don't even try it unless you have datalogging setup. otherwise, you have no real idea where are on the map. with a turbo car its a little easiers, because you have a boost gauge... but very few all motor cars run a vacuum gauge. datalogging will allow you to record a pull, play it back and see whats happening at X rpm and Y millibar.
#3- don't even try it unless the car is running good. it's impossible to tune a car that has problems. work out all the bugs first.
#4- make changes in very little increments. if it looks like you need more fuel at X rpm and Y millibar, highlight the 6 cells in that area, and make a slight adjustment. repeat until it looks good. then fine tune out the 6 cells to like 2 or 3
#5- WRITE DOWN what you do. often a change can fubar the whole map, so right down what you changed so you can go back. there is no "UNDO" button... so you have to know what you're doing.
#6- screw uberdata. get crome. its light years better IMO.
#7- take your time, don't rush it, and if you aren't sure, STOP and come back here and ask. 1 wrong move could cost you thousands in repairs.
#8- tune a/f first. leave the ignition map alone. get the whole fuel map straight and clean. all motor shoot for 13.2:1 a/f's across the board at EVERY throttle position. tuning full throttle is the easiest. the part throttle tuning is the hard part. BUT, if you have a good wideband and crome pro ($150), there's an auto tune feature that works pretty damn good. basically, you set a target a/f in the program, and then crome will take the wideband reading and make adjustments to the map as you drive based on what its getting back from the wideband. after you have the a/fs straight, its time to make power-- ignition tuning.
#9- too much advance can lead to pinging. too little will lead to no power. be conservative in your tuning. if it pings, drop it back 2 clicks instead of 1 to be safe. maybe even 3 if you want to be real safe. variances in fuel, temperature, heat, and air pressure can effect your tune, so its good to give it some room
#10- watch someone else. if you know anyone who has the stuff, see if you can tg along sometime when they tune a car. chill in the back seat and watch what they do.
this could be bad though-- inexperienced tuners might not know wtf they are doing either and could teach you to do everything the wrong way.
#11- if you have the cash, the time, and there's a show near by, i HIGHLY suggest you hit up ben straders efi 101 class. I've been trying to get to it for a long time now, but something always comes up. but the people who have gone have all spoken HIGHLY of the class. http://www.efi101.com
#12- learning the actual software is sometimes the hardest part. you can't tune a car if you can't figure out what you're doing with it. play with it. download some sample bin's off line, import them, and look at the tune. you can get a general idea of how things should look. for example, ignition maps in the upper milibar and low rpm are usually in the negatives-- retarded timing. that way, when your dumbass decides to florr it in 5th gear when you're doing 15 mph, you don't ping to shit.
stock honda maps are available for the popular ecu's and are usually built into the sfotware. open one up, save it as a test file with a new name, and explore.#13- read pill's sample how-to from his tuning experience.
https://hondaswap.com/~pills/hondatatuning.html
this was written for hondata, but the basic gist of it applies.
#14- if you're near ct, give me a holler
oompahlumpa
Junior Member
this was something that I was interested in learning myself also.
You should also check out the Uberdata forums...it has definitely all been covered before.
www.uberdata.info
www.uberdata.info