Any Z owners besides Jeffie?

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reckedracing said:
my first order would be to re-install the factory springs back in it
if you want to fill in the wheel well get yourself a little bigger sidewall for a more comfy ride lol
scrap the rear coilover and camber kits
sell the CAI, for a stock one plus cash

i'm too old for this game

but nice buy man, glad you didnt get the salvage title one and found one you liked in black
Click to expand...

Fail

Most likely the front camber is within spec but the rear is out. The rear camber kit should be around $100-200

buy some worth while wheels with a good offset to get a nice flush look. going to a larger OD tire not only will screw with the handling of the car but will also throw the speedo off and mess with things like the ABS/TSC since the car will think its going slower then it really is.

Nismo intake isn't bad I'd keep it.

Add a worth while Y pipe and Exhaust then get an uprev tune to make the most of the power.

Done

P.S I wouldn't do any wheels smaller then 9.5 inch wide in the rear.

I currently run an 8.5 up front and 9.5 in the rear. I'm kicking myself for not doing 10.5 a very common Z size for rear wheels.
 
it's actually negative in the front and within limits in the rear, the opposite of what you said...

he guy kept the stock shocks and dropped the vehicle with some lowering springs. The wheels will depend on the weight mostly, but some nice wide rears would be tasty.

What are your thoughts on 17" wheels? Maybe I suck in "B Series Land" but 18" wheels just seems a tad bit much, if you can get an equivalent total diameter with a smaller wheel and biger tire it seems like it would help.

I heard you on the bolt-ons, already looking, may just go NISMO.

Thoughts on the whole "Stage Two Chip" thing? I dealership was trying to sell me an 05 ase model, kept talking about how the chip would negate the power difference in the 06 model. I have never messed with chips, to me it is the kind of thing rednecks do to their F-150's but maybe I am missing the boat on this. I want to go NA, if I can get it around 350HP I will me more than happy.

Headers, highflow cat or test pipes, exhaust, spacer, and chip. If I do all that, keeping the CAI, what am I looking at Jeffie?
 
Silverchild79 said:
it's actually negative in the front and within limits in the rear, the opposite of what you said...

he guy kept the stock shocks and dropped the vehicle with some lowering springs. The wheels will depend on the weight mostly, but some nice wide rears would be tasty.

What are your thoughts on 17" wheels? Maybe I suck in "B Series Land" but 18" wheels just seems a tad bit much, if you can get an equivalent total diameter with a smaller wheel and biger tire it seems like it would help.

I heard you on the bolt-ons, already looking, may just go NISMO.

Thoughts on the whole "Stage Two Chip" thing? I dealership was trying to sell me an 05 ase model, kept talking about how the chip would negate the power difference in the 06 model. I have never messed with chips, to me it is the kind of thing rednecks do to their F-150's but maybe I am missing the boat on this. I want to go NA, if I can get it around 350HP I will me more than happy.

Headers, highflow cat or test pipes, exhaust, spacer, and chip. If I do all that, keeping the CAI, what am I looking at Jeffie?
Click to expand...

That's weird that the fronts are out of wack most people don't have issues with the fronts since they have more room for adjustment. The rear has very little camber adjustment from the factory. Who did the alignment? Makes me wonder...

I'd stay away from anything chip wise. There's no one chip that works well on every car. What you want is Either a Utec (I'll sell you one) or uprev IMO uprev is better but will cost you more. Utec piggy backs with the stock ECU. Uprev is a reflash of the stock ECU Utec is cheaper I'll sell you mine for $400.00 or $450 with a map sensor if you want boost down the road. Uprevs should run you around 700. Not sure if that would be with or without tuning. My uprev setup cost me I tihnk $1100 or 1200 but that was with full tune. Both setups will require dyno time. If you just run a random map it may or may not work well. reguardless your car is different then any other car out there so to make the most you really need to get it on a dyno with a legit tuner.

Yes you're stuck in the Honda world with wheels, 17s on a Z is like 13s on a honda. Zs come stock with both 17s and 18s depending on model. As far as aftermarket goes 19s is hands down the most common sized used. Few people run 18s mostly auto cross guys who are trying to get the lightest wheel possible who are N/A. Also keep in mind brakes, there's tons of brake kits for the Z, a lot of them won't fit 17' wheels some dont fint 18" wheels most fit 19" wheels.

If it was my car, I'd work on suspension mods, Y pipe and exhaust, I'd leave stock cats and stock manifolds, get it tuned with utec or uprev and call it a day. Headers on a Z is a total PITA there's next to no room to work with and the reward isn't the biggest. Anything N/A related isn't all that great. If you do all the basic mods + tuning with the utec/uprev I'm guessing you could see a gain of around 30-40WHP but that all depends on what it lays down currently. Some people have picked up 10-15WHP with nothing more then cleaning up the stock tune. Just make sure you don't spend money on stuff that will be thrown out/resold at a later time when you want more power.

Most turbo kits use the stock manifolds. Most turbo kits replace the cat section.

Whatever you do, do not go for a ride in my car or someone elses boosted Z because you will never look back. being able to run down R6s on the highway is bad ass.

not that I've ever done that before. :cool:
 
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z3.jpg


Not too bad. Just about right.

Catch can install

Homemade Catch Can - MY350Z.COM Forums

N/A guys do it, but its not as needed VS when boosted. I collect a lot of oil in mine.

My little DIY for installing an oil cooler.

DIY oil cooler install - MY350Z.COM Forums

If you do track days, it's something you should install, or if you go boosted I highly recommend it.
 
23.jpg


That's what its like to take off the cats, ther's 2 bolts facing up and 1 bolt facing down. Notice all the room between the frame rail/manifold?

Check out http://www.handsonkitchen.com/pics/install/ 1.jpg up to 112.jpg you can see all the pictures from the turbo install.
 
I think I may be the last "OG" hondaswap member to cut his ties with the big H

You May Be An "OG" Hondaswap Member If:

-you don't actually own a honda/acura
-you understand "Flagday""
-if you have actually seen the flash intro for the website
-if you ever posted with "pissedoffsol"
-if you know Triniti
-if you know about "V-Tech"

Did I miss anything?
 
Silverchild79 said:
I have never messed with chips, to me it is the kind of thing rednecks do to their F-150's but maybe I am missing the boat on this. I want to go NA, if I can get it around 350HP I will me more than happy.
Click to expand...

LOl that made me laugh. Rednecks and their mysterious “chips”.... all they do is advance your ignition and dump gas. 10hp isnt worth screwing up a car you just bought.

Do bolt ons and leave it alone, or boost it. No middle ground please!
 
Silverchild79 said:
I think I may be the last "OG" hondaswap member to cut his ties with the big H

You May Be An "OG" Hondaswap Member If:

-you don't actually own a honda/acura
-you understand "Flagday""
-if you have actually seen the flash intro for the website
-if you ever posted with "pissedoffsol"
-if you know Triniti
-if you know about "V-Tech"

Did I miss anything?
Click to expand...

None of this applies to me :(
 
you're 21 and still live in ohio
just how far have you come exactly?
 
Jeffie, could you give a good explanation about the Catch Can and how it gets used? I have a G35x and have heard some things about them for G/Z's.
 
Why do I need an Oil Catch Can?

Lets look at your engine for a moment. Every engine during the normal combustion process, has blow-by. Engine Blow-by is excess combustion gases that leak by the piston rings and escape into the engine crankcase. During each compression or power stroke of a normal engine cycle, a very small amount of gases leak by the piston rings. This happens because the piston rings do not create a perfect seal. This Blow-by of gases is very small, but the higher the RPM and the more pistons, the more the blow-by starts to create pressure in the crank.

This pressure needs to be released, and is done so by crank case vents. Because manufactures have to keep environmental issues in mind, these gases can’t just be vented to atmosphere. So the OEM’s vent these gases back to the intake system to be re-burned. This all sounds good, but Blow by is nasty stuff!

Engine blow-by contains gases and oil from the crankcase. The gases aren’t really a problem, but the oil is. This oily mess coats everything in its path as it makes it way back to the combustion chamber. This nasty oil mess gets into the turbo, then boost tubes,then intercooler, into the intake manifold, and finally back into the engine. As the oil creeps in between couplers and boost tubes, it can cause the connection pop off under boost. This oil then gets into the intercooler, coating all the cooling fins. This greatly effects the ability of the intercooler to cool, and the efficiency of it will drop! This will cause a huge loss in power and can cause detonation. The last place this oily mess sees before the combustion chamber is the intake valves. Because of the temp differences and the oil impacting them, the oil will start to build up and form sludge. This adds up over time, and can cause many other problems, and hurt performance.

From this you can see, blow-by is bad, and it needs to be dealt with.
Click to expand...

I trap a good bit of oil in my catch can and if you smell it, without a doubt it's mixed with gas. Very strong smell of gas from the oil.

If you're N/A and drive like normal, no biggy, if you do a lot of track days or tend to do full throttle runs very often then a catch can can't hurt. For me I drive my Z every few weeks, not very often. each time I drive it I drive it like its meant to be driven, I empty out my catch can everytime I take the car out. It catches around 1-2 oz easily within a single 50-60 mile trip. Granted most of that trip is spent under boost =0
 
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