Dustin_m
Member
yea so i tried surfing for the first time yesterday. i have been wanting to learn for the last 4 years i have lived here in san diego, but never had a board and the time to learn. well i finally got a killer deal off craigslist. like a bad ass deal, i have already been offered more than double what i paid for the board.
the bad thing is the good deal was on a short board, which is hard to learn on. it's a 6'3" Killer Dana custom. it cought my eye 'cause its all camo painted, and it was painted from the shaper, not afterwards, so its all under the glass. it was perfect condition, only surfed once from the lady, yes older lady, i bought it from.
so ye i went out yesterday with my friend who surfs everyday. first off, i wanted to go to a mellow spot where i wasn't gonna get f'ed up. the bad thing is, with a short board, and me being almost 200 lbs, i have to get in the bigger faster waves to push that board enough. so the only place that was going good was sunset cliffs. so we go over there and he knows the place good, but i don't. its exactly as it sounds, cliffs, rock cliffs. great place for a beginner, huh.
so we climb down close to the water. now, you have to wait for a wave to come up, then jump onto your board onto the backside of the wave, so you don't get pounded back into the rocks you are standing on. well he gose thenturns around to watch me jump. i went to jump and a huge wave builds out of nowhere (since its rocks under the water, you can't always predict when they are gonna form). so i jump and immediately proceed to get pounded back inot the rocks i just jumped off of. yea, it hurt, bad. oh well, isucked it up and got out quickly and lumped again, this time making it ok. it was getting big so it took us a while to paddle out.
when we finally got out there, i tried to take a couple waves and went over the falls every time. what i mean is i waited too long to try and stand so i went head first into the wave, got fucked up and allthat. so yea tis all good, i expected that.
well that was pretty much the story of the whole time i was out.
now when it was time to go in, 'cause it was getting dark, we went to paddle into the same place we got in. well, turns out the tide had risen more. not good since we were at the cliffs. now the waves were pounidg full force against the rocks. there was no way in hell we were gonna get out alive here. so turns out there is a sand beach about 1/2 mile north of where we were. so with only about 20 minutes left of daylight, we started paddling. on the way there, my calves started cramping, bad. oh well i had to make it there or else i was fucked, so i kept going. we finally made it to the beach and climbed up the cliffe to the road.
i gotta say, i have been on boats, body boards, swimming, and all that out in the ocean, even got sucked out by the rip currents a few times, and i have never been more happy to touch solid ground than yesterday.
yea so all in all, it was a fucking crazy little adventure. even more crazy since it was my first time on a surfboard.
one thing i gotta say though that it was addicting. even that small second i felt the wave pick me up and i tried to get up before i ate shit, it was the greatest high, way better than any other high.
i am supposed to be getting my own wetsuit in the next few days and i will be going out every chance i get now.
oh yea, i am fuckin sore, i could barely walk today. that shit is a FULL body workout. i have never been so sore i think.
so, like i said in the title, does anyone else surf? i doubt it since all you bitches live on the shitty east coast
the bad thing is the good deal was on a short board, which is hard to learn on. it's a 6'3" Killer Dana custom. it cought my eye 'cause its all camo painted, and it was painted from the shaper, not afterwards, so its all under the glass. it was perfect condition, only surfed once from the lady, yes older lady, i bought it from.
so ye i went out yesterday with my friend who surfs everyday. first off, i wanted to go to a mellow spot where i wasn't gonna get f'ed up. the bad thing is, with a short board, and me being almost 200 lbs, i have to get in the bigger faster waves to push that board enough. so the only place that was going good was sunset cliffs. so we go over there and he knows the place good, but i don't. its exactly as it sounds, cliffs, rock cliffs. great place for a beginner, huh.
so we climb down close to the water. now, you have to wait for a wave to come up, then jump onto your board onto the backside of the wave, so you don't get pounded back into the rocks you are standing on. well he gose thenturns around to watch me jump. i went to jump and a huge wave builds out of nowhere (since its rocks under the water, you can't always predict when they are gonna form). so i jump and immediately proceed to get pounded back inot the rocks i just jumped off of. yea, it hurt, bad. oh well, isucked it up and got out quickly and lumped again, this time making it ok. it was getting big so it took us a while to paddle out.
when we finally got out there, i tried to take a couple waves and went over the falls every time. what i mean is i waited too long to try and stand so i went head first into the wave, got fucked up and allthat. so yea tis all good, i expected that.
well that was pretty much the story of the whole time i was out.
now when it was time to go in, 'cause it was getting dark, we went to paddle into the same place we got in. well, turns out the tide had risen more. not good since we were at the cliffs. now the waves were pounidg full force against the rocks. there was no way in hell we were gonna get out alive here. so turns out there is a sand beach about 1/2 mile north of where we were. so with only about 20 minutes left of daylight, we started paddling. on the way there, my calves started cramping, bad. oh well i had to make it there or else i was fucked, so i kept going. we finally made it to the beach and climbed up the cliffe to the road.
i gotta say, i have been on boats, body boards, swimming, and all that out in the ocean, even got sucked out by the rip currents a few times, and i have never been more happy to touch solid ground than yesterday.
yea so all in all, it was a fucking crazy little adventure. even more crazy since it was my first time on a surfboard.
one thing i gotta say though that it was addicting. even that small second i felt the wave pick me up and i tried to get up before i ate shit, it was the greatest high, way better than any other high.
i am supposed to be getting my own wetsuit in the next few days and i will be going out every chance i get now.
oh yea, i am fuckin sore, i could barely walk today. that shit is a FULL body workout. i have never been so sore i think.
so, like i said in the title, does anyone else surf? i doubt it since all you bitches live on the shitty east coast
