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anyone surf?

Discussion in 'Members' Lounge' started by Dustin_m, May 26, 2006.

  1. Dustin_m

    Dustin_m Active Member

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    yea so i tried surfing for the first time yesterday. i have been wanting to learn for the last 4 years i have lived here in san diego, but never had a board and the time to learn. well i finally got a killer deal off craigslist. like a bad ass deal, i have already been offered more than double what i paid for the board.
    the bad thing is the good deal was on a short board, which is hard to learn on. it's a 6'3" Killer Dana custom. it cought my eye 'cause its all camo painted, and it was painted from the shaper, not afterwards, so its all under the glass. it was perfect condition, only surfed once from the lady, yes older lady, i bought it from.


    so ye i went out yesterday with my friend who surfs everyday. first off, i wanted to go to a mellow spot where i wasn't gonna get f'ed up. the bad thing is, with a short board, and me being almost 200 lbs, i have to get in the bigger faster waves to push that board enough. so the only place that was going good was sunset cliffs. so we go over there and he knows the place good, but i don't. its exactly as it sounds, cliffs, rock cliffs. great place for a beginner, huh.

    so we climb down close to the water. now, you have to wait for a wave to come up, then jump onto your board onto the backside of the wave, so you don't get pounded back into the rocks you are standing on. well he gose thenturns around to watch me jump. i went to jump and a huge wave builds out of nowhere (since its rocks under the water, you can't always predict when they are gonna form). so i jump and immediately proceed to get pounded back inot the rocks i just jumped off of. yea, it hurt, bad. oh well, isucked it up and got out quickly and lumped again, this time making it ok. it was getting big so it took us a while to paddle out.

    when we finally got out there, i tried to take a couple waves and went over the falls every time. what i mean is i waited too long to try and stand so i went head first into the wave, got fucked up and allthat. so yea tis all good, i expected that.

    well that was pretty much the story of the whole time i was out.

    now when it was time to go in, 'cause it was getting dark, we went to paddle into the same place we got in. well, turns out the tide had risen more. not good since we were at the cliffs. now the waves were pounidg full force against the rocks. there was no way in hell we were gonna get out alive here. so turns out there is a sand beach about 1/2 mile north of where we were. so with only about 20 minutes left of daylight, we started paddling. on the way there, my calves started cramping, bad. oh well i had to make it there or else i was fucked, so i kept going. we finally made it to the beach and climbed up the cliffe to the road.

    i gotta say, i have been on boats, body boards, swimming, and all that out in the ocean, even got sucked out by the rip currents a few times, and i have never been more happy to touch solid ground than yesterday.

    yea so all in all, it was a fucking crazy little adventure. even more crazy since it was my first time on a surfboard.

    one thing i gotta say though that it was addicting. even that small second i felt the wave pick me up and i tried to get up before i ate shit, it was the greatest high, way better than any other high.

    i am supposed to be getting my own wetsuit in the next few days and i will be going out every chance i get now.


    oh yea, i am fuckin sore, i could barely walk today. that shit is a FULL body workout. i have never been so sore i think.

    so, like i said in the title, does anyone else surf? i doubt it since all you bitches live on the shitty east coast
     
  2. ScrapinSi

    ScrapinSi Senior Member

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    I used to surf when I lived in FL... Only REALLY good waves we got were when a hurricane was off the coast... But i miss it... BAD... :cry2:
     
  3. BodyDroppedNikes

    BodyDroppedNikes ...PENDEJO.... VIP

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    caught in a mosh...
  4. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    that happened to me when we were in kawai (sp). there is a huge cliff by the beach we were at and if youve been to hawaii you know the waves arent really that bad....Well i hadnt touched the ground since i got on board...and when i finally made it out to this spot it became very clear that the water MIGHT have been 4ft deep. Made for some fun surfing until this HUGE wave came out of no where, 3 hours surfing, no bad dives, just unexpected breaks knocking me off my board and stuff like that, and this thing sweeps my scrawny ass off my board and THREW me against the rocks. I know it probably didnt happen that way, but that is the way it felt...then when my board resurfaced it hit me in the face....bit through a nice chunk of my lower lip.

    Thankfully i was only about 1/4 mile (probably less) from the beach. Blood Red White Beaches....gotta love it.

    I really miss surfing. My mom used to take me to cali, singapore and hawaii when she went off on business. Probably some of the best years of my life.
     
  5. SlushboxTeggy

    SlushboxTeggy It's only stupid if it doesn't work VIP

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    Two words. Cape Hatteras. Some of the best, most consistent, surfing compared to a lot of places. Something with the Continental Shelf there makes it awsome.

    But anyway, I've been surfing for like 3 years and finally got my own Lost short board toward the end of last summer. Have yet to stand on it, haha. But I'll start surfing this year in Deal, NJ, when the water gets a little warmer.
     
  6. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

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    I just surf porn.
     
  7. Dustin_m

    Dustin_m Active Member

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    its on the east coast?
     
  8. SlushboxTeggy

    SlushboxTeggy It's only stupid if it doesn't work VIP

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    Yup, Outer Banks, NC.
    [​IMG]
    Last time I went the waves were on the smaller side for some reason but when a hurricane is coming they are awsome and still consistent. So basically you don't have to pick a "good" wave, because they all are about the same.
     
  9. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Surfing's great, short boards aren't much harder than longboards, but like you said, you have to put yourself on waves you might not be comfortable with as a beginner. and yeah, your upperbody will die really quick as a beginner, at least that's how it was for me. Legs never really got tired, because I did a lot of board sports, skating, wakeboarding, snowboarding, all that jazz. Good luck man, if you are ever in pismo hit me up, but the surf ain't nearly as good up here as it is down in S.D. and ditto to the high you get from riding.
     
  10. Dustin_m

    Dustin_m Active Member

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    yea i got a friend who's from pismo, but lived in my hometown fro a year or so before moving back. he's always out at the pier surfing. damn i can't remember his last name, but his first is steve, white dude, blond hair.

    yea pismo gets good waves sometimes but its cold as shit up there. i used to get out in the water, but after being used to SD, i don't think i could take it, i'd probably stay at the rec beach in my jeep all day :)
     
  11. Black Widow g2

    Black Widow g2 *princess*

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    mavericks, nattie bridges, lighthouse, pac g, allllll over monterey...
     
  12. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Yeah, I went out in the water yesterday, my freakin legs were going numb...ocean temps are like 55° here year round. I have a 4-3 hotline, and I still get cold. Sux to be skinny sometimes.
     
  13. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    thats why you surf hawaii....the water is always warm. you can surf in shorts.........

    just tried to get into my wetsuit again. i havent been surfing in 4 years and it STILL FITS.
     
  14. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Watch it, it might tear on you. the neoprene dries out. Dental floss will be your best friend...
     
  15. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    no big thing. ill probably buy a new one if im buy a beach again. the light blue doesnt work for me anymore.

    my board cracked last time i was in kawai. luckily enough i didnt have time to surf when i was in San Diego.
     
  16. Dustin_m

    Dustin_m Active Member

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    damn...

    i just found out from my friend who took me out surfing the other day that a guy died on those rocks trying to get out right at the same time we were. i don't think i put it in mmy first post, but after we couldn't get back up on the rocks because the waves were too big, we started to paddle up to a nearby beach. well while we were paddling there was a shitload of lifeguards and coast guard that went the other way. they were going past up on the roads, a boat passed us, and a Medevac helicopter went over. we were thinking somobody on the cliffs might have thought we were in trouble and called it in, but yea, it turns out that a guy was trying to get up the rocks right by us and got pounded by the waves.
     
  17. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    i have a buddy who lives like 3 blocks from the beach in Del Mar.. he surfs on the weekends only.. you should try Blacks beach too.. its a hella steep cliff to walk down.. oh and its a nude beach also
     
  18. Dustin_m

    Dustin_m Active Member

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    yea, Blacks is pretty popular, but i don't want to get out in the way of others when i'm trying to learn. i just found out that Del Mar Jetty is one of the best spots here, its all sand, and the best part is that its on Camp Pen, so its not crowded, haha. gonna try to head up there as soon as i can get away from school for long enough.
     
  19. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    yeah...i dont know where i learned to surf but it was a beach near a hotel in SD. like may-june and beaches were empty during the day. it was nice and quiet. Its just like skateboard....except the ground moves...thats the only reason i was able to pick it up in 2-3 days.
     
  20. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    yea.. he goes down around 18th & PCH.. i have a few friends who live in Encinitas also
     
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