Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by BoogieDown, May 6, 2004.
thinking about geting the b16 1wire hook up ecu from them
Cons: impossible to tune properly. Revlimiter fixed. VAFC could be of limited help.
Summary: if you are planning to build the motor AT ALL, go with a PR3/PW0 so you have more options for tuning it. If you are going to plug it in + not ever fuck with it, the zdyne is an ok option.
How much are they anyways? You can get PR3s for $150 - I know cause I'm selling one.
the ecu is coming w/ the motor plus some other things from Hmotors i wanted it for the wireing ease and if you get the SECU is like 950$ but you can tune it go to their web site and download the binhacker. you can change fuel and timeing maps
has a clutch cut kinda like the msd 2 step can change vtec rpm cold red line hot redline idle have boost retard also works with a NO2 setup so you can turn it on and off at a preset rpm.
the reg one like b16 1 wire its 320$
and that can't be tuned but you can have them set cold and hot redline idle speed and when vtec comes in and a few other things
but from what they say there the more expensive one is very tuneble unless there full of sh!t. and why would they be on links at the HAsport site and a few others?
main issues with zdyne SECU: (Coming from my buddy Stephen who has used one to run his 2L sleeved LS running 17+psi for years)
1. No datalogging
2. Poor support for super-large injectors. Cases in point: COLD START ENRICHMENT, TPS enrichment, Cold starts, etc.
3. Inflexible column headers / spacing
4. Dead product - Jeff Matthews was the brains behind zdyne and he left years ago. It took a long, long, long time before a version of binhacker that actually supported winXP + 2K came out.
dude i'm only gonna b16 swap and might put cams and/or turbo w/ about 6psi mabey 50 or 60 shot of N02 later on
i'm not going balls to the wall w/ this i don't need all of that dataloging
and its much easier to wire up than the stock ecu so for what i'm doing i think i'll be fine
cams and / or turbo and you're looking at a new ECU.
Out of your own mouth.
that made no sense
so you know everything about ecus ok well what should i do then? i don't plan on doing anything to the engine for about a year and from what i have seen and read its hell to wire everything
take whatever they give you if it is free, get a PR3 or PW0 if you have to buy the ECU, and save some money for real engine management by the time you get done with all the bolt-ons.
ok so i can use N02 on the PR3 or PWO that is what Hmotors is sending w/ the swap not sure which just said eather/or. wish i knew someone close that could help me w/ all the wireing i'm ok w/ the easy stuff but damn theres a lot more wires to add. oh well guess its gotta be done right?? or can i buy a after market wireing harness for the swap?
don't be intimidated by the wiring, its really not that hard, i know shops around here will rewire harness, you bring them your harness they give it back plug and play for your swap, maybe that is an option, don't get the Zdyne unless your going to leave the motor completely stock, becuase once you need any sort of tunning your done, you said cams and nos, these make the option disappear if you want to do things the easier, cheaper, smarter, and better way. . .
If your obd0 I would go with TurboEDIT. It does everything you will ever need. I know a few people running and testing it right now and it works great. If your a DIY person then defintely look into it.
the one thing that TurboEdit does NOT do well yet is vtec.
It is in the works, but it is not ready for prime time.
This kid needs vtec. its not for him, not yet.
so are there issues using a v-afc with the zdyne one wire conversion?
the AFC is bullshit period.
no timing adjustment = toy
I make as much power tweaking timing as fuel (ok not quite, but almost) in most cars I do. Not being able to tweak timing independently of fuel = the suck
ok now w/ all that said what can i do to the old ecu after i put n02 on it or something else
are you willing to be creative or do you need someone else to have done all the hard work for you?
We wired up a relatively low-tech solution that worked really well for a friend's car. He was spraying a 65 shot on a stock D16Z6 with a dry kit. He was having real issues with LEANING out the car while spraying. This was a *bad* thing. He also had his distributor clocked all the way retarded to avoid pinging. He was losing quite a bit of power from this.
What we did to combat this proved to be really effective. First, DSM450s were installed in the car. The distributor was turned back to stock. We then retuned the car naturally aspirated until we got to a happy point. The solenoid to jack the fuel pressure that was part of the NOS dry kit was removed. I then made up a program that had enough fuel for the motor running NA AND the nitrous shot. I retarded the timing as well, for added safety with the nitrous. We ran the ultra-rich program a couple times to try to fine-tune it a little. Once we were happy with it, I got a chip that was twice the size of a stock OBD1 honda chip (27C512). The highest address pin was then wired to the relay for the nitrous solenoid, by way of a 7805 voltage regulator to keep from frying the chip.
The end result was that the car drove around on the naturally aspirated program most of the time. The car was tuned great for NA, and made great power NA. When the nitrous relay clicked to turn on the nitrous system, the ECU started running off the second program, tuned for delivering fuel for the nitrous and retarding timing. The car ran so flawlessly that it is now on a 85shot.
Total cost of mods:
DSM 450s = $50
resistor box (was a 5G hatch) $10
chipping supplies $1
If you don't want togo through the hassle, both hondata + AEM have very nice nitrous support. You can read a lot more about this approach on PGMFI.
thats cool and all but i have never done anyting like that before and am worried i would fry something and i don't have the $ to buy a new ecu if that happens. so yes i would want someone doing the "hard stuff" if your talking about the tuneing and such but the wireing and swap it self i can do. i would just rather have someone there to help that has done this kind of thing before and know exactly what to do. dig?
looking back if i have the $$ for hondata i could fry an ecu or two right
Separate names with a comma.