ARP head stud install?

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S

smooth_criminal

Senior Member
So i put loctite on the studs and put them in the block, put the head on and lubed up the threads. When i went to put the nuts on they don't thread? Does anyone know what size the nut is supposed to be? The ones i have are M10 x 1.25. B18b1 block / head the ARP set i have is 802-4302. Now also what i'm worried about is that it's been sitting for about 5 hours and the loctite is dried and the insturctions say to do the final torque on the head before it dries, Is this going to be a problem?
 
do you have the studs in upside down? im pretty sure the 2 ends have different threads. but if the lock tite is dried, remove the studs, get all the locktite off the stud, then retap the holes in the block to get the locktite out of the threads in the block. make sure you have the right nuts, then start over with new locktite. but IMO putting locktite on the studs is unnecessary.
 
I would put the locktite for a boosted app. its not necessary like gsrcrxsi sais. But under alot of boost they wont fair as well with out the lock tite. On another note removal of arp head stucks is a bitch(atleast it was for me )
 
i'm pretty sure they can only go one way, with the allen key openening up top? Do they have allen key holes on both sides? And if i do have to remove the studs what should i use to lossen the loctite before i try and get them out?
 
hex key holes are only on one side, the up side...

you should be good for a final torque even if the loctite is dry
 
Eh, I would not have put loctite on my studs, they give you the moly lube to use for a reason, its friction properties.
 
exactly, no loctite on head studs. They are only supposed to be on there a little over finger tight. You don't need to crank the piss out of a head stud. As far as torqing down, you will be fine to do so as soon as the head studs are in the block.
 
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