ARP Head studs

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blwnsmke

New Member
B18 block with a ITR head.. Which arp head studs are needed? I searched but couldn't find a definite answer.. Anyone got a part number?"?
 
I highly doubt you searched, seeing as how there is a 'How-to' on building an ls/vtec...

I'll hold your hand though and just give you the answer...

https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/build-reliable-ls-vtec-85477/

Let's start. Now, in my opinion, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a "reliable" lsvtec build:

LS ARP rod bolts
GSR ARP head studs
New OEM LS (90-01) B18a/b head gasket
New OEM/ACL LS bearings
Shotpeen LS rods
New hastings/OEM LS piston rings
New OEM valve seals
Hone cylinders
New GSR/ITR water pump (P72)
New GSR/ITR timing belt (P72)
New GSR/ITR/96+ Bseries oil pump (P72)
Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
New oem NGK V-power b16 spark plugs (stock compression) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 11.5:1+ compression.
 
B18c5 block with ITR (pr3-2) head. WIll arp gsr studs work or do I have to get studs for a type r?
 
Here's part of what you need to read.

ARP head studs installation. Another near mandatory upgrade. The ones you need for this hybrid setup are the GSR/ITR studs/bolts. Do NOT use the B16 or B18a/b studs. They are the incorrect length. First and foremost, make SURE that the holes are clean and clear of debri. The best way to do this is to spray brake cleaner or intake/carb cleaner down the holes, and use compressed air to blow out the cleaner and debri. Make sure to cover up the cylinders so that crap doesn't get into them though. Make sure to lube up both sides of the studs w/ ARP moly lube (which is included with their bolts), or with 30w oil (Not 10w30, but solid 30w), if you bought them used. Tighten the ARP head studs all the way down with an allen wrench, then back them off about a 1/4 turn (ARP recommends they are hand tight, and this is equivalent). But, beware. When they say handtight, they do not mean tighten them down with your hand. This is just silly because you can't thread the studs all the way down by hand; they won't all be even. What they mean is, thread the studs all the way to the bottom, but do not have the bolts applying any pressure to the block (no torque). You can also use the double nut technique, which is just putting two nuts on the stud, and using a socket or box wrench to tighten the upper nut. This will turn the stud because the lower nut will hold the upper nut in place. This will ensure that they are all at equal height. Do NOT torque the studs INTO the block. This will negate the whole reason you are using studs instead of bolts in the first place. The advantage of studs is this...the block will be "pulling" down on the head, which is the opposite force of combustion, as opposed to the head "pulling" up on the block, in the same direction as combustion, which is what the stock head bolts do. The studs help create a better seal.


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I read that thread.. Pretty much what I needed to know is, are the GSR and Type R head studs the same length? I ask because both gsr and type r Head studs both have different part numbers.. Im running a type r block and Type r head.. Just seemed like the Gsr studs a cheaper.. Thats why I asked if they are the same length etc..
 
Uh, you need to do some more reading.

A GSR block and head is the same casting as the Type R. So, yeah, GSR studs will work.
 
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