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ARP headbolt instructions?

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by CrazyAzn, May 13, 2006.

  1. CrazyAzn

    CrazyAzn Senior Member

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    Does ne one have these instructions for a b18c? i was looking around online and found a couple sites. but there kind of contridicting and do not agree on how to install them.

    one site said to use loctite to hold them down, one said to torque the studs in the block, another said to just bottom them out. one said to torque them to 70, another 65 another 60.

    can someone clear this up for me once and forall.

    thanks,
    kyle

    also i checked arp's web site but they dont have ne instructions up.
     
  2. VTECin5th

    VTECin5th Administrator

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    Isn't there 2 torque specs when putting on headbolts?
    one is like 25 and then you go to 65 or something in steps?
     
  3. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    stock bolts go in steps, but ARP's instuctions dont say to. i guess it couldnt hurt.

    you need to torque them to 65 though.
     
  4. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    remember you have a D series motor, he has a B18C. i too have the B18C and the instructions that came with the respective studs say 65 ft lbs.
     
  5. CrazyAzn

    CrazyAzn Senior Member

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    really, so it doesnt say u have to go in steps?

    what about something like tightening them and loosening them like 3 times or something like that?

    http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/arptrq.html

    it says to tighten them down, then loosen them again. . . but in doing this doesn't it mess with the gasket? im kinda lost here, i got the bolts used n he doesnt have the instructions ne more. . .

    thanks guys,
    kyle
     
  6. VTECin5th

    VTECin5th Administrator

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    I'd go with the 2 step or 3 step.
    Don't count on 1.
    I have no idea why you'd loosen then tighten, etc... maybe there's a good reason.
    I've only done stock headbolts, and it was years ago.
    Go IN SEQUENCE to hand tight then go to 22ft lbs then go to say... 35-40 ft lbs then go to 65.
    Don't forget the sequence.
     
  7. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Torque them down using the same method as outlined in the helms. The reason for torquing in steps has nothing to do with the fasteners being used; it is so you don't warp your head. It's precautionary, and you would probably get away with torquing them down in only one step without damaging the head, but why take chances? Also remember to go through a few cycles of the torquing sequence, so you get an accurate torque measurement. If you only torque them down once, you will get an incorrect torque reading due to the friction of the contact surfaces. Torque to the specs that are given with the directions, and I believe the specs are different between iron heads and aluminum heads, so if you get your instructions from arp's site, make sure to use the specs for aluminum heads.

    Just read one of the posts above, and no, it won't mess with your gasket.
     
  8. CrazyAzn

    CrazyAzn Senior Member

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    i couldnt find the instructions on arps site. . . maybe im blind or maybe they dotn have them. . . haha either way thanks for the info guys, it seems that they are basically the same as stock head bolts to an extent.

    thanks,
    kyle
     
  9. GSRCIVICTN

    GSRCIVICTN Lost in a sea of rednecks

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    I would torque in steps like VTECin5th said. I would not tighten then loosen a few times. I wouldn't tighten, loosen, tighten even once. Just tighten in steps. There are reasons that you don't reuse headbolts and headgaskets. Repeating the torque process defeats that reasoning.
     
  10. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    wrong. Even the honda dealership and the shop I take my car to told me there is no reason to not reuse the headbolt. As for headgaskets, of course you don't reuse them, but you aren't breaking the seal by loosening the nuts off the studs, that is unless you pull the head off. I've done almost 10k on my build and have had zero head issues. We'll see how it works over the next year, but I don't forsee any problems. If any problems do arise, the 11.5:1 compression should help things along a little quicker. The reason for the torquing and loosening is to work the lubricant fully into the metal so you get an accurate torque reading. But I guess to each is own, I'm sure it works either way as long as you are careful.
     
  11. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    Whoa, are we talking about installing the studs into the block here? if so, I misread the thread. Yeah, I just installed the studs hand tight into the block, and then just snugged them up with the hex key.
     
  12. CrazyAzn

    CrazyAzn Senior Member

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    nice nice. . . so basically tighten the studs into the block, then follow the step in the helms manuel. . sounds like a plan to me. . what did everyone torque theres to? 65? 64? or i believe the helms says 62?

    thanks,
    kyle
     
  13. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    I believe the ARP instructions give a certain torque spec for their bolts, but I don't know how off it is from the helms.
     
  14. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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