ARP rod bolts vs aftermarket rod

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asmallsol

Super Moderator
All right, For my NA LS build up, I dont plan on doing anything super crazy. I am going to put b16 sirII pistons in it, then for the top end, I will be doing a decent amount of head work. I do not plan on reving much further then 7800-8000 RPM due to the fact the LS does not have oil squirters. Now for my question, since I am not going boost, do I really need the aftermarket rods (eagle h beams if I went that route). Next what is involved in doing the rod bolts? For when I do pistons, can I simply take the head off, go through the oil pan, un bolt the rods, Pull the rod and piston out, put the new pistons on, then replace the bearings, then put everything back together or is there more to it? Also, other then a ring compressor, trq rench, micrometer, a few other missolanous tools, are there any special tools that I need?
 
If you plan on changing the pistons your self you will need a hydraulic press. If you decide to stick to LS rods, I have a set of LS rods with JDM B16A pistons on them if you are insterested send me a PM.
 
I am guessing the hydraulic press is for the piston pins? do the b16a pistons have less compression then the SIRII's? (i am guessing when you say b16a you mean the orginal b16)

Right now the only time I have ever been on the inside of an engine was with a briggs and Straton 5hp engine, on that, all you need was a peice dowel (wooden rod) and a dead blow hammer to get the pins in and out.
 
Yeah, the press is to remove and install the pistons pin. You might want to think about honing the cylinder walls while you are at it.

c-speedracing puts an LS engine at 11:1 with the pistons I have. Yeah, they are out of a B16A.
 
Originally posted by lsvtec@Aug 6 2003, 07:43 PM
Yeah, the press is to remove and install the pistons pin. You might want to think about honing the cylinder walls while you are at it.

c-speedracing puts an LS engine at 11:1 with the pistons I have. Yeah, they are out of a B16A.

Well remember why I am going LS, it is a low budget thing. How much does honing cost?


But am I right on how to get the pistons out, by just unbolting them through the oilpan, then pushing them up through the top of the block?
 
i am thinking of doing the same thing. my old ls pistons are ok except one looks like it was dragged across the floor and now it has all these little nicks in the piston skirt. is this ok or do i need to buy a whole new piston set :frown:? also if i decide to just buy a new b16 piston set can i use my brand new ls piston rings?

i just had the motor honed so i don't want to score the cylinder wall.
 
Warning :cockblocked: thread in progress :lol:

This would be a good time for you to put the SI pistons in there. I am not sure if the rings are the same. But it depends if you want to go NA or FI. If you want to go FI, go with LS pistons, if you want to go NA, go with SI pistons.
 
Originally posted by saturn_boy96@Aug 6 2003, 08:50 PM
sorry dude, got the same setup just had a little question about the same thing.

no prob, that is why the :lol: emtoicon was after the Bitchy statment :p
 
i am not sure i understand how the wrist pin holds onto the conecting rod. i don't get how you just press em in and press em out. is that really all there is to it?
 
Originally posted by saturn_boy96@Aug 6 2003, 08:55 PM
i am not sure i understand how the wrist pin holds onto the conecting rod. i don't get how you just press em in and press em out. is that really all there is to it?

Not 100% on this but at least on smallengines (lawn mower engines) There is an E clip that holds them in place.
 
honing is a cheap process. i have a hone. a bunch of local machine shops have hones as well :)

there is no e clip.. you just press em in.. and they magically stay :)
 
Originally posted by saturn_boy96@Aug 6 2003, 07:55 PM
i am not sure i understand how the wrist pin holds onto the conecting rod. i don't get how you just press em in and press em out. is that really all there is to it?

Pretty much. Some engines are different where the wirst pins float and are very simple to remove. But there are some that are tougher to get out than others. but on honda engines, like the above post says, they just majically stay. :D
 
It is a friction fit. It takes a lot of pressure to force the wrist pin through the bushing at the top of the rod. Once in, the wrist pin will not wove inside the rod. The piston can rotate a little on the wrist pin.

My bore and hone cost me $18 a hole, honing should be a small piece of that.
 
dude i live in butt ass crack wyoming and paid more than $50 a hole for my straight hone. what an ass. :angry:
 
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