Assembling a B-series block

[civicious]

Installment one, the block. If I left anything out, let me know.


Parts needed:
1 block
4 pistons/rings
4 wristpins
4 rods
8 rod bearings
10 main bearings
5 main caps
2 thrust washers/bearings
1 oil pump
1 water pump
1 thermostat tube/thermostat housing
1 thermostat
1 driver side bracket
1 lower alternator bracket
1 upper alternator bracket
1 timing belt tensioner
1 tensioner spring
1 crank pulley
1 crank
1 woodruff key for the crank
1 timing belt gear
2 washer thingies that go on either side of the timing belt gear
1 oil pan
1 windage tray
1 oil pickup
Bottom end gasket/seal kit
And all the bolts and washers for the block.
Assembly lube
WD40

First thing you gotta do is put the crank in. Be sure and use plenty of assembly lube on EVERYTHING that has metal-to-metal contact. Pop the bearings in the block half of the crank journals, and install the thrust washers on the block. There's 2 recessed spots for them on the second crank journal from the oil pump side of the block. Gob assembly lube on them, and they'll stick. Then drop in the crank. Pop the other half of the bearings into the main caps, and lube them up. Put the main caps on, with the cap that has the 2 tabs for the oil pickup going on the same journal as the thrust washers. Then torque the main cap bolts to 56 ft-lbs.

Now on to the pistons. Install the rings per the instructions you should've received with the rings. In case you didn't get instructions, it's (From top to bottom) springy ring thingie - thickest - thinnest, with the marking on the ring facing up. Install the wristpins and pistons on the rods, using motor oil on the wristpins. Clip half of the bearings into the rods and lube them with assembly lube. Then, using a ring compressor, compress the rings. Put a piece of rubber or plastic over the bottom of the rod, so that you don't scratch your crank. Place the piston in the bore, and tap it into the cylinder with the butt end of a hammer. Make sure the pistons are facing the right way, and spray the rings and cylinders with lots of WD40. Then clip the other half of the bearings into the rod caps and lube 'em up. Get under the car, remove the plastic from the bottom of the rod, and install the rod caps. Torque the rod bolts to 24 ft-lbs.

Now install the oil pump and water pump. These are pretty self-explanatory. Be sure and use gasket sealer around both of these to prevent any leakage. Slide a washer over the crank pulley nub, slip the timing belt gear on, put another washer on, and then install the crank pulley. It's easiest to slip the Woodruff key in after you have already put the pulley on. Tighten the bolt pretty tight, I just hit it with an impact gun. Install the tensioner and tensioner spring.

Back on the bottom end of the block, put on the windage tray and oil pickup. Slip on the oil pan gasket, and put on the oil pan.

Put all the brackets on the block, spray a little more WD40 on the pistons, and turn the crank over with a ratchet.

You should be good to go at this point.



Stay tuned for Part 2: Assembling the Head

 

[CRseX84]

if u are doing that much of a rebuild u shuld at least check the bore for out-of-round, taper or scoreing. and there is gona be some type of lip at the top of the cylinder. you shuld def atleast hone out the cyl. to give them the best possable seal with the new rings. also do not use WD-40 when puttin the pistons in the cylinders, that washes away the engine oil. u shuld go to NAPA or sum parts store and get LUBAPLATE. i dono if i spelt that right but its a type of assembly lube. u shuld put that around the top of the cylinder b4 u put the piston and rod assembly in, and be sure u get a good coating of motor oil on the rings b4 u put them in. be sure the oil gets behind the rings not just on them.
Good Luck

 

[civicious]

1. Why should I check the bore for out-of-round, taper, or scoring when I assembled it the same night I got it back from being bored?

2. Use WD40. http://www.overboost.com/print.asp?id=1250 Overboost > j00.

When you buy a new car, "dry" starting of the engine and oil system priming has been taken care of for you. If you're in a situation where you've rebuilt an engine and it is completely green, you can follow the above break-in procedure but only after prefacing it with a few other items. First of all, you'll want the oil system primed before firing the engine. When we build engines here this is how we do it. The pistons, rings and cylinder walls are sprayed liberally with WD-40 with the piston pins lubed with 20W-50 engine oil. Assembly lube everywhere else, but absolutely no assembly lube in the cylinder bores.

 

[Speedracer228]

nice write up, lookin forward to the next part

 

[CRseX84]

ok my bad bout the out of round, missed the part about it being bored out. and about the WD-40 VS. Lubaplate, i have talked with alot of difrent machine shops, and built 6 motors hands on with one of the machineshops. they build a number of diffrent engines from BUSH Race engines, to a 1.5 HF crx engine. they NEVER use WD-40 to put the Pisotns in for that reason that it washes away the oil. you can beilieve what you read on the net. but im goin with what i have seen personaly and built and have had no problumes yet at all. im not smashin on u man, this is what i have worked with and have seen work perfect. so if u wana go ur way toaly cool. no disrespect go for it. let me know how it turns out. Good luck

 

[Crix]

make sure your thrust washers are facing outwards. Groves facing out.


A better way is to take some motor oil and take your fingers and rub it on the rings and walls. The helms/service manual even suggest to use wd-40.

 

[Crix]

Is there any certain brand name assembly lube to use? Type etc? I should be getting my bottem end parts back from the machine shop soon. Probably Wednesday.

 

[civicious]

I used Lubriplate.