1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Auto to Manual Conversion

Discussion in 'Swap Articles' started by brian11to1, Dec 11, 2003.

  1. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,203
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2003
    I started the swap today after school had been canceled. Thus far, I have the new pedals installed and the Shift Lever (A/T) out. This is for a 90 Acura Integra.

    First things first get the POS auto out of there and sell it on EBAY! Sell everything you dont need, cuase you wont be able to use it.

    When mounting new MANUAL transmission you need to get 3 12x1.25x60mm bolts and get a bit more than 1 1/4" of shims for each bolt just so you have extra shims if you end up needing them. (Go with 4 7/8" of shims to be safe) Because otherwise the motor/trans is to low by 1".

    This picture shows what you need, 4 and 9, 9 is the bracket that bolts to the transmission you shim this piece between the transmission and bracket.

    12-10-03 The A/T pedals were crazy to take out. First remove the steering wheel (19mm), the plastic panel under the driver side dash (4 screws), then the knee brace (4 bolts - 12mm) then un-bolt the 6 steering column bolts (12mm) and lower the steering column. Now the pedals. There are only 6 bolts (10mm) holding it in and you must remove the A/T control box to the left of the brake pedal, it's held in by 3 bolts (10mm) and the brake switch (14mm) to get to the air duct that goes from the heater core to the far vent on the dash, to get to the last bolt. The throttle cable (not cruise cable) was trickery to get out... but once I looked at the M/T pedals I figured it out!

    Drop the steering column...

    Remove brake/gas pedal (also shows where the A/T Box was)

    12-11-03 Now you can move onto the auto shift lever. Remove the center console and unhook the shift cable, then the 2 bolts (10mm) holding the slide indicator in place... DO NOT DAMAGE. Unplug all accessory plugs and set aside. Remove the shift knob (2 screws).

    Go under the car, unhook the exhaust from the header, and remove the rubber hangers as well, let exhaust hang down out of the way and also remove the heat shield (6 bolts - 10mm) above the exhaust pipe to make access easier. There are 4 bolts (10mm) holding the actual shifter in place, remove them have someone in car to wiggle it out of place as it is sealed. then in front of the shifter is where the cable comes into the car, there are two bolts which are accessible through the inside of the car (10mm), remove those as well, because this is in the way of the shift stabilizer and shift linkage.

    Since the car doesn't exactly have mounting bolts for the Shift lever/stabilizer you will need to use some old bolts (about 2" long bolts and nuts with lock washers) to secure the shift stabilizer and bushing. The two holes farthest back can be used as a guide but one new hole will need to be drilled. Use the stabilizer bushing to reference holes. <<<< EDIT 12-11-03

    Clutch Cable - after mounting the pedal assembly you may now if you wish drill the hole for the clutch cable. Drill a pilot hole through the fire wall from inside the car, the go outside the car and drill the hole for the cable it self. A pic, for reference for the hole.

    Wiring - take the gear selector located on the passenger side of the A/T lever [​IMG] push it all the way forward into the "P" or park position, and secure it there somehow, rather it be super glue or whatever you must do this to insure the key will release when you want to take it out of the ignition. It's a sliding thing that slides back and forth telling what gear its in. (haven't got to this point yet)

    Parts list - added 8/16/06
    * Manual Pedal assembly from 90-93 integra
    * Manual ECU for your year (if you have a 90 integra, get an 90 PR4, if you got a 91, get a 91)
    * Manual Cable B Series Transmission 90-91 or 92-93 (w/flywheel cover)
    * Honda MTF (carquest)
    * Clutch kit (match it to the transmission, if you get a 90 or 91 trans, get the clutch for the 90 or 91 integra...)
    * 92-93 Axles (you will only need these if you get a 92-93 trans...)
    * Manual intermediate shaft (there is a difference, this is a mandatory part!!!)
    * Flywheel (any 90-01 B series OEM or aftermarket)
    * Flywheel bolts (~$35 new from honda, $45 from ARP)
    * Shift linkage w/shifter, boot and knob (i'd look for or buy new from honda integra type r shift linkage and shifter)
    * Shifter bushings - Energy Suspension, $20
    * Manual passenger side mount (or use the innovative at/mt conversion mount found here - Innovative motor mounts specials- SHIPPED pricing - Generation 2 Integra Clubâ„¢ Forums)
    * Clutch cable
    * Misc. washers (to act as shims) that equal about an inch or so... i think more actually
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 18, 2010
  2. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,203
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2003
    Asking for a little help, can some please check this to make sure it makes sense... the pictures are from G2ic.com and they are not of my car, becuase I dont have a digi cam at my disposal. Thanks
     
  3. zc_hatch

    zc_hatch Senior Member

    Messages:
    255
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2003
    Location:
    Indiana
    you seem to be on the right track. On a civic or crx, you dont have to drill for the clutch cable, the whole is already they and plugged with a rubber grommet
    joe
     
  4. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    21,969
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2003
    I'm surprised you had to drill the firewall, and more surprised that you have to measure it out yourself. The Civics I've converted had at least the markings there for a new pedal. EK Civics have a rubber cap.

    Hydraulic trannies aren't that much harder. You'll need the lines from the donor car, but the lines are easy to run. Since all models of Hondas are available manual / automatic, you're in good shape with whatever choice you get.

    Going mechanical from a hydro transmission is tough.

    -> Steve
     
  5. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Houghton/Livonia Michigan
    wow, I think you did a little to much work. When I did an auto to manual swap, we did not take the steering column off. All we did was undo all the bolts using verious swivels and extensions, removed the cotter pins, then once everything was all loose, just cut the brake pedal off, then it slides right out of there. To put back in, you basicly have to do the oppisite.

    The conversion is easier with a hydro tranny because the hole is already there on EG's and EK's. Then you just run the little line, and hook it up. Works great.
     
  6. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,203
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2003


    Thanks for your input. But I dont have a saw or anything like that and didnt want to take the chance of fucking anything up as I am ona budget and this is my daily driver. Thanks again
     
  7. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    21,969
    Likes Received:
    146
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2003
    Hey LMM, nice to have ya back,

    In the center console you'll find 3 wires, two white and one black (I THINK). The black is a ground, and the positives are for the Park and Neutral starting points. You'll see that the wires lead to the P and N selections on your stock auto-selector.

    Only one of them needs to be hooked up. That will allow the car to start, thinking its in a gear. Also, while you're driving the dash cluster will say either "Park" or "Neutral". So choose what you want to stare you in the face for the rest of your life.

    Or until you get a new gauge cluster.

    Other than that, you'll have a park-to-start wire on the brake pedal in the auto. That wire, switch, and everything moves right into the clutch start hole near the clutch cylinder. (Oh wait, cable trans) Then the switch mounts near the cable on the pedal.

    Lemme know if you need any more help.

    -> Steve
     
    Jazz112884 likes this.

Share This Page