1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Auto to Manual conversion..

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by j177oney, Mar 10, 2004.

  1. j177oney

    j177oney Junior Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    Ok guys, you can laugh if you want...anyways, I need help...

    I currently am running a stock engine..what is needed to convert to stick..I am planning to put a B16A or something...is it worth doing the work or what?...

    If it is worth it...pls provide me what I need...thanks and greatly appreciated...

    :blink:
     
  2. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

    Messages:
    9,203
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2003
    ok, heres what you need.

    clutch reservoir
    clutch master cylinder
    clutch/gas/brake pedal
    all hard lines associated with the hydro system
    a clutch
    a d series transmission (preferably an EX trans)
    shifter, shift knob, shifter boot
    shift linkages (stabilizer and the linkage it self)
    while youre at it buy a shift stabilizer bushing form prothane or what have you
    you'll need the fluid for the clutch reservoir (i think you can brake fluid, but I'm not sure)
    I think thats it, you may also need the Passenger side transmission mount, or modify the Automatic Transmission mount to work.

    good luck.
    Yes it's worth, down the road the transmission will go out costing major money to fix. At least $2000. It cost me $2200 for my integra, then like an idiot I swapped to a manual. Search for my write up on it. its in the members lounge.
     
  3. b16coupe

    b16coupe Senior Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2003
    Location:
    anderson, S.C.
    I agree with SpodaB1, it is worth it. When I did my auto to manual conversion I just ordered a complete b16 swap. Spoda listed everything you need except i used some soft line for the clutch but the hard lines are probably cheaper. When you take out the automatic shifter, you will need to leave all of the little electronics hooked up and leave it in park.

    And don't be like me and trouble shoot for 2 days, and finally figure out your car wont star because you forgot to ground the tranny.
     
  4. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Houghton/Livonia Michigan
    for hard lines, you can either grab it off a doner car (which is a pain because there are so many other lines infront of it, or you can go to autozone, and buy straight hardlines, and bend them to what you need.


    Yes, you do use brake fluid. Not much is needed, but even if you were to do a normal swap, you would need brake fluid.


    For the mount, you have 2 choices. One you either have to get the chassis bracket that is welded on the chassis from a manual for the transmission, remove yours, then weld that on, then go at it as any other swap. The other way, which is a little more costly, but so much easier is to buy an aftermarket mount from hasport or someplace like that.

    The reason why you need a diffrent mount then normal is because on manuals, the transmission braket goes out and is perpendicular from the chassis. On autos, that bracket is up about 30 degrees. This ends up making a 2 inch gap between the tranny and the mount.

    another thing that you need to do, which is very easy is you have to patch up a little hole where the old gear selector is. On autos, there is a large gear selector, then infront of the gear selector, there is a hole where the cabel goes to the tranny, and thats how you change gears. With the manual conversion, the shifter bolts up about an inch behind the big hole in the floor, and needs about a 2 inch circle to operate. This leaves a big section of nothing. What you have to do is buy some sheetmetal, and with sheers, cut out a section to seal the big gaping hole. We used silicon caulk to do it, and havn't had any complaints yet. This step was alot easier then I thought it was going to be.

    Since your going to be going over to a b16 anyways, here is basicly what you need (many repeats from Spodas list)

    Clutch pedal
    Clutch mastercylinder
    Clutch lines or fab your own
    manual pedal asembly of gas pedal and brake pedal
    shifter, shift knob, shift boot, and bushings
    2ft by 2ft or so peice of sheet metal
    silicon caulk
    then everything that you normally need for a swap

    If your just doing the tranny swap, your going to need a new ECU (will come with ECU wiht swap)

    With spodas article, it is great for an older integra, but there are some diffrences with the newer hondas (I did one with an EG)

    b16coupe, when I did the swap, we left non of the little electronics by the autoshifter. Basicly we cut all the wires out except for the one that tells the car that it is in park. We wired the car up to think that it is park all the time. This little lock is the same little lock that makes it so you can only start the car when the clutch pedal is disengaged.



    All in all, here is what it cost this person when I did his swap.

    my old d16z6, which included the ECU axles, tranny and everything else.
    manual pedal stuff, clutch MC, clutch pedal, and clutch line, all purchaces from me for 500
    new linkages (my sol ones would not work) and shifter 65 from junkyard
    new clutch, mine was going - 100
    resurface the flywheel - 20
    Placeracing auto to manual conversion mount 100 (would not recomend, fitting was kinda off)
    normal fluids - 35
    -------------
    The swap ended up costing him a little over 800, and this included the engine (his old engine was so slow)

    To do the swap, it took 3 days. We started working on it at around 4 on friday, had the engine totally out of the car 1 that night. Worked from noon to 7 cleaning the engine bay out, running the clutch line, putting in the clutch master cyclinder, putting in the pedals (can be a bitch) and taking the old gear selector out (was a complete PITA because the bolts were so rusted, we had to cut the 4 that holds it down. We started to drop it in aroud 7 and we had basicly all the mounts bolted in at 1:30 that night. The next day, we started at 12, and we put the shifter in (much easier to align to drill the 2 holes when the engine is in) put the axles in (took alot longer then normal because we could not seperate the ball joints, even with a pickle fork) did some wiring for VTEC, and then did the finishing touches. At 6, we were done except for bleeding the cooling system. The thermostat would not open, so we had to steal the one from his old engine. Finally at 7, the thing drove away. I had experience with doing my swap, the other 2 people helping me (person who owned the car and his freind) didn't really have any experiece, but did a decent job helping. We did the complete swap almost faster then it took me to do my swap (I had some road blocks which were out of my control) So really, it is not that hard, and you can do it yourself. Honda-tech has write ups for doing this an in EG. Just follow them and it wont be a problem.
     
  5. hcivic.com

    hcivic.com Senior Member

    Messages:
    4,571
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2003
    Location:
    Calgary Alberta canada
    no you all wrong find a cable tranney and likages modify it to work in the car take way less time than tryinh to mount a clucth master cylinder, they also forgot a fly wheel and you need to convert you ecu to sa manual one
     
  6. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

    Messages:
    8,074
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Houghton/Livonia Michigan

    are you talking to me?

    With EG's, this swap requires no cutting. For the Clutch master cylinder, you have to remove 2 bolts that hold a little plastic black plate that covers up the hole where the master cylinder goes. Once you remove that plate (takes all of 30 seconds) then you just bolt the CMC up using the 2 studs provided. With 2 little 10mm nuts, your CMC is all done.
     
  7. j177oney

    j177oney Junior Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2004
    thanks guys for all you feedback...im pretty sure I will do this...thanks again...
     
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page