auto to manual in EG

sleek95civic · Jun 3, 2004

i am getting a manual tranny from a 96 ex. it is coming with EVERYTHING (lines, pedals, linkage, cylinders, shifter, linkage, ECU, mounts, etc). it is going in a 95 ex, and i need as much help with this as possible. i have a mechanically inclined buddy that is going to help, but I want to have all my bases covered so we are prepared to get it done in as quick as possible. I can't seem to find a write-up on this anywhere on the net. any info would be greatly appreciated.

LMK

asmallsol · Jun 3, 2004

I'll copy and paste my little writeup I did a while ago...

or hard lines, you can either grab it off a doner car (which is a pain because there are so many other lines infront of it, or you can go to autozone, and buy straight hardlines, and bend them to what you need.

Yes, you do use brake fluid. Not much is needed, but even if you were to do a normal swap, you would need brake fluid.

For the mount, you have 2 choices. One you either have to get the chassis bracket that is welded on the chassis from a manual for the transmission, remove yours, then weld that on, then go at it as any other swap. The other way, which is a little more costly, but so much easier is to buy an aftermarket mount from hasport or someplace like that.

The reason why you need a diffrent mount then normal is because on manuals, the transmission braket goes out and is perpendicular from the chassis. On autos, that bracket is up about 30 degrees. This ends up making a 2 inch gap between the tranny and the mount.

another thing that you need to do, which is very easy is you have to patch up a little hole where the old gear selector is. On autos, there is a large gear selector, then infront of the gear selector, there is a hole where the cabel goes to the tranny, and thats how you change gears. With the manual conversion, the shifter bolts up about an inch behind the big hole in the floor, and needs about a 2 inch circle to operate. This leaves a big section of nothing. What you have to do is buy some sheetmetal, and with sheers, cut out a section to seal the big gaping hole. We used silicon caulk to do it, and havn't had any complaints yet. This step was alot easier then I thought it was going to be.

Since your going to be going over to a b16 anyways, here is basicly what you need (many repeats from Spodas list)

Clutch pedal
Clutch mastercylinder
Clutch lines or fab your own
manual pedal asembly of gas pedal and brake pedal
shifter, shift knob, shift boot, and bushings
2ft by 2ft or so peice of sheet metal
silicon caulk
then everything that you normally need for a swap

If your just doing the tranny swap, your going to need a new ECU (will come with ECU wiht swap)

when I did the swap, we left none of the little electronics by the autoshifter. Basicly we cut all the wires out except for the one that tells the car that it is in park. We wired the car up to think that it is park all the time. This little lock is the same little lock that makes it so you can only start the car when the clutch pedal is disengaged.

All in all, here is what it cost this person when I did his swap.

my old d16z6, which included the ECU axles, tranny and everything else.
manual pedal stuff, clutch MC, clutch pedal, and clutch line, all purchaces from me for 500
new linkages (my sol ones would not work) and shifter 65 from junkyard
new clutch, mine was going - 100
resurface the flywheel - 20
Placeracing auto to manual conversion mount 100 (would not recomend, fitting was kinda off)
normal fluids - 35
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The swap ended up costing him a little over 800, and this included the engine (his old engine was so slow)

To do the swap, it took 3 days. We started working on it at around 4 on friday, had the engine totally out of the car 1 that night. Worked from noon to 7 cleaning the engine bay out, running the clutch line, putting in the clutch master cyclinder, putting in the pedals (can be a bitch) and taking the old gear selector out (was a complete PITA because the bolts were so rusted, we had to cut the 4 that holds it down. We started to drop it in aroud 7 and we had basicly all the mounts bolted in at 1:30 that night. The next day, we started at 12, and we put the shifter in (much easier to align to drill the 2 holes when the engine is in) put the axles in (took alot longer then normal because we could not seperate the ball joints, even with a pickle fork) did some wiring for VTEC, and then did the finishing touches. At 6, we were done except for bleeding the cooling system. The thermostat would not open, so we had to steal the one from his old engine. Finally at 7, the thing drove away. I had experience with doing my swap, the other 2 people helping me (person who owned the car and his freind) didn't really have any experiece, but did a decent job helping. We did the complete swap almost faster then it took me to do my swap (I had some road blocks which were out of my control) So really, it is not that hard, and you can do it yourself. Honda-tech has write ups for doing this an in EG. Just follow them and it wont be a problem.
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auto to manual in EG

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auto to manual in EG

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