Axel problem 91 CRX DX B16 A swap

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burninriceinva

New Member
I am having a problem with the drivers side axle. It appears to be long. I can get the axle in the hub and the suspension bolted on but the axle is binding and is preventing the suspension from traveling up and down, also the camber adjuster is pulled all the away forward. i have an obd 0 motor and y1/LSD trans. and changed the front suspension out with JDM EF8 upper control arms and hub assembly. Passengers side bolted on with no problems. I searched HS and couldn't find any similar situations posted. Could my half shaft be the problem. thanks for any replays.
 
What axles are you running? The best ones are custom, second best - SiR. Some people run 90-91 integra axles w/ the teg half shaft, but you need to pull the dust covers off the inside of the spindles and you may need to swap out your inside cv joints. I tried running teg axles on my CRX w/ a b16 and they didn't fit. However, I have an SiR half-shaft so that could be what was preventing them from working. Also, I don't think that the EF8 stuff is any differnt than what you have on there right now...I could be wrong tho.
 
Dude thank for the reply. I found out that the Y1 trans half shaft is 1" longer than the integra. you right have to order or make custom shafts. HAsport told me how to make them 86-89 teg shafts and 90- 93 teg inner joint.
 
Keep your intermediate shaft and use the half shafts from an 88-89 Integra LS\RS\GS etc... One of those two years only, avoid 86 and 87.

There is no sense in paying the cost for custom axles, they would make for you a pair of the axles I just listed. I'm not sure what HASPORT was trying to tell you. As smart as they are about swaps and conversions, I see no reason not to use the appropriate 88-89 axles.

The EF8 CRX suspension may be hurting your application. If you research either HT or this site, someone has a thread with pictures and the actual measurement differences between USDM Civic\CRX knuckles\upper control arms, ones for a DA and ones for a JDM EF. In every situation, the best suspension to run was the one designed for the chassis. The JDM or DA parts may be stronger or have larger brakes, but they come from differently sized chassis' compared to yours and typically cause suspension\axle binding, misaligned frontal suspension measurements and I believe they both add unsprung weight (read: less speed and cornering, more braking distance) when the entire suspension isn't modified to accept these foreign pieces while still maintaining the correct geometry everywhere.

You're application should be something like this, for maximum ease, minimum cost and the most correct setup for you.

- stock knuckles\upper control arms, NOT JDM or DA
- 88-89 Integra axles (NO int. shaft from this car)
- Y1 intermediate shaft & trans.
- pull your dust caps off (it's not a trick only for using DA axles. leaving them on may "work" but it's more likely to help separate the insides of the inner CVs if you don't).
 
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