b16 goes kaboom help..

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S

Samuels

Senior Member
Ok this sucks i'm cruising on 95 hit the exit ramp and car goes kaboom. The car just has a CTR intake cam and new cam seals. I've put exactly 507 miles on this thing since then and did'nt even go into vtec until after 50 miles. The car turns over the cam gears and belt are moving and its turning over fast just not starting. I took the fuel line off the rail and turned the key so I got fuel. The problem no spark I only checked #4 need to do the others but nothing. I took cap off checked rotor every thing was intact and changed probably 1200 miles ago. What could be the culprit here??

If its the distrubter,coilpack would either of those cause it to just shutdown with no warning symptoms?? The only thing the car has been doing is idleing kinda high especially after the cam install but I think its the throttle cable. I can put my toe under the gas pedal and lift and it will idle down.

Please help to narrow down this problem. What do I do to check for this stuff. My mechanic said check the black wire with yellow stripe with a test light. What exactly will this tell me he confused me completely?

Any ideas?

Any chance my motor is toast?
 
Sorry the car is a 90 hatch with a gen 1 obd-0 b16 swap.

Kaboom has in just died sounding like another time when I broke a timing belt in my geo.
 
Okay a friend has a blown up 92 teggy motor. He said the distributer is obd-0 is it?
The cap is broken but mine is new for a 91 teggy will all this work if I use my cap?

I'd like to see if putting on that dizzy will cure my ails but I thought for sure a 92 was 0bd-1
 
Okay I have power to my dizzy thru the black/yellow wire. i DID THIS BY GROUNDING MY CLIP TO THE CHASSIS AND PUT THE POINTER ON THE black/yellow wire terminal inside the dizzy with the key acc on and it was hot. I was told to take the negative wire off the igniter put my ground on my test light thier. Then put my test light pointer on the hot side with the black/yellow wire still intact. When I do that I get no power. Does that mean anything to you guys? He was confusing me on how to do it.

I also just replaced cap,rotor,wires,etc last month. My cap where the electrode goes inside the igniter was really dirty I had to scrape it to get the metal back and its new. Inside the igniter I could'nt see any metal on its end. I cleaned and scrapped inside the igniter whole until I got it back to metal again did the same to my dizzy cap. I reinstalled thinking she'd start and the same song nothing.


Do you guys think this is the igniter? Its 88 while the dizzy is 255.

Could this be something else not dizzy related??

help nopi's tommorow
 
No I did'nt check the compression. I'm not getting fire. If my timing or compression were off it should still have fire correct?

i BROKE A TIMING BELT IN MY 90 GEO STORM.
 
It just died with no warning sign at all. The car was running fine hit the exit ramp and was idleing on down from around 4k and she cut off. The belt did'nt come off and looks fine and its tight and was changed in august.

Now to the WTF part. When I checked for spark when it broke down it was raining and I checked #4 and thier was nothing. Now after cleaning out the igniter I can get a spark in every 1 if I basically touch the screwdriver to the metal. Its not a great flame when off the metal.

I personally think this has something to do with my CTR intake cam install just a sinking feeling and I think its timing related. My buddy still thinks its the distributer and that its still not producing enough spark.

Any ideas? I wish I could check the timing myself but I have no clue..

The car turns over very fast and does'nt change at all if I move the dizzy its still turns fast just does'nt crank. It don't spit,sputter and it does'nt start just keeps whinding.

My luck has been terrible.
 
how high did you wind it right before getting on the exit ramp?
any chance it jumped a tooth on the intake or exhaust side?

spinning over really fast leads me to think its lacking compression...

did you try some new plugs?

if you have compression i would get a new distributor... i know they're expensive, but from my personal honda experience, this sounds like a distributor problem...
thats just the way the honda dizzy turns, ya know?

i would start by putting the crank at tdc and checking your markings on the cam gears... or pull a test if you got a comp gauge...

idling down from 4K puts a tremendous strain on the motor, its basically fighting against itself with a 1 inch piece of rubber keeping everything rotating in time... fucking timing belts... hopefully its just weak spark from bad dizzy...
 
Just got that sinking feeling its timing related its only been 500 miles since cam install. I don't have a compression tester or timing light. When this happened I was riding along in bumper to bumper reving and riding along at around 4k I believe in 3rd.

My friend is adamant he thinks its the dizzy not creating enough spark.

If it was a compression issue would'nt the car have been acting crazy like lacking power or something??

This thing was running great.

The spark plugs are 2 months old NGK gapped at 0.52 and I have'nt changed them. The plugs would'nt cause the car to just shutdown without warning either would it?

The new dizzy is 255 local and 200 online. The ignitor is 84 by itself. I wanted to buy it then return it if it did'nt work but the guy said after it was installed I could'nt return it.
 
eh, get the igniter

its only 84 bucks... and if thats not it you always have a spare, or resell the bitch...

i don;t think its anything that a timing light will help you with, unless you're firing retarted 180 out its not gonna matter, it'll at least try and start and knock and backfire if its anywhere near where it should be...

pull your plugs and spin the motor over, then put the plugs back in and spin the motor over... if it sounds like its spinning at exactly the same speed then you lost compression...

most likely its not a spark plug issue, you are correct there..

and i don;t mean normal wear and tear compression issue... i mean the timing belt jumped a tooth and your pistons smashed some of your valves...
doesn;t need to smash em completely, just tapping them will bend them enough so that they no longer seal the combustion chamber, so when mister piston comes back up to make the high pressure needed to ignite the fuel air mixture all that pressure/air will be leaked back out the gap in the valve seat...

so you have a couple choices here...

one is like i said above, check your timing marks, not as in timing of the fire of the plugs, but timing as in the timing mark on your crank pulley being at TDC, and the marks on your cam gear being where they should be...

do you know what the timing marks are? and where they should be? and you know what TDC is right?

your other option is to get a new dizzy or new igniter... igniter is cheaper, but also not a 100% answer, if you get the whole dizzy and that doesn;t work then you def got a bigger problem...
 
This sucks I don't no nothing about TDC,Timing marks or any of that. It has stock cam gears and thier exposed. It would be great if I had a friend with a 0bd-0 dizzy or someone local in Va that would let me try thiers for a small fee to see if it will start.

Would'nt I have heard some kinda chatter or stutter if it jumped a tooth? This thing just shutoff with no warning or no sounds at all. If it bent a valve or something I woulda surely heard some chatter even when trying to start it today right?
 
nope, same shit happened to me, i was cruising at 55, but my belt completely took a dumped and twirled itself into a billion fucking pieces...

i had no clue what the fuck was going on... except it seemed to be spinning over a little faster i remembered...

yea, timing belt was gone... ii got lucky, threw a new belt on and ran the fucker...
burned oil like a bitch and a couple valves were bent, but i got it to work the next day... was a damn good motor until thieves stole my fucking car
lol

it was like a week after i replaced my 175K motor with a 105K one too, it was mint, didn;t burn a drop of oil till i wrecked it...
 
i can't find an image of the timing marks but they are pretty simple

take your tire off the drivers side
there is a mark on the crank pulley
put a 17 or 19mm on your crank bolt and turn the motor till the mark is where it should be... research/google/ or wait for someone here with a helms to tell you where it goes... (a lot easier to turn it over by hand with spark plugs out)

then after you get the crank where it should be look at your cam gears, you'll also need to refer to the image or someone on here...
now if they are way out don't be alarmed, the motor could be 180 over, so you simply turn the crank again, get the mark back where it should be and check it again...

its prob just the dizzy, very unlikely it jumped a tooth...
 
I hope its just the dizzy. The ignitor was corroded where I could'nt see metal where my cap electrode plugs into it. And the 5th electrode on the cap where it goes into the ignitor was corroded to the point of me scraping it has well to get metal.

But I'm getting spark now although its faint and basically when its on the metal.

I'm just hoping its not nothing major.

Thanks for your help.

I will probably buy that dizzy but I wanna be sure beforehand of the problem. I bought my CTR's from the same place.
 
unless you have diagnostic machines? or are really good with your ohm meter i think you're gonna have to take a chance and throw parts at it...
 
The only thing the car has been doing is idleing kinda high especially after the cam install but I think its the throttle cable
Click to expand...

umm about the idle ...my b16a1 does the same thing
idles at 1000-1100 and if i touch the gas pedal and let it fall it falls to normal and goes back up to where it was

and i can't fix it!
 
^^^thread jacking in progress^^^

perhaps you have a vacuum leak or your throttle cable needs adjustment?
are you throwing any codes?
hows the voltage from your TPS?
 
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