B16 Ignition upgrades or OEM??

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S

Samuels

Senior Member
Okay I'm about to tune up my hatch with 1st gen b16. I can get the 91 Teg cap and rotor kit for 37 bucks from Acura. I also need cam seals so I decided to look into 94 del sol DOHC plug wires which are 70 bucks. Should I get a different plug wire? I was told to get BKR6E-N11 NGK plugs can I get them from the dealership has well??

I can get a aftermarket replacement cap & ROTOR msd for 37 bucks that will accept a MSD tower 40 bucks. The MSD wires are another 60 would'nt this setup be better then OEM for only a few more dollers??

Also whats the deal with all the grounded wires like the HKS,direct hits,nology etc are any of them worth the money the HKS sound pretty good basically regrounding your whole car??

I plan to get a OEM,K&N OR Mobile 1 oil filter with Mobile 1 synthetic. Is Lucas's a good additive?
 
Stick with OEM cap/rotor and the stock NGK plugs. Order them online if you want to save some money. Skip the MSD- you don't need it unless you're pushing 600whp or something.

If you're talking about upgraded grounding wire kits- they're good, but you can make your own for less cash. If you want to buy one though, it's a good investment.

Stick with the Mobil1 filter and Mobil1 synthetic oil. Don't even think about using the Lucas- it's trash.
 
Thanks man, so OEM is the way to go even though thier in the same price range. I just bought a zex dry kit 55 shot from a friend for cheap. I'm planning to rebuild my motor probably in the fall so I will spray only at the track this summer. I just wanna make sure my ignition is in great working condition beforehand.

So the HKS is a nice lil upgrade thier like 150 bucks.

What about plug wires and from what car??
 
use OEM anythign ignition related. Dont use oil additives. They are a waste of money. Stock honda ignition is good for like 400whp or somthing liek that.

Im not a fan of nitrous at all, so Im not gonna give advice on that....other than it will kill ur motor quickly (especially if not done right)
 
Originally posted by Samuels@Feb 26 2005, 07:56 PM
Thanks man, so OEM is the way to go even though thier in the same price range. I just bought a zex dry kit 55 shot from a friend for cheap. I'm planning to rebuild my motor probably in the fall so I will spray only at the track this summer. I just wanna make sure my ignition is in great working condition beforehand.

So the HKS is a nice lil upgrade thier like 150 bucks.

What about plug wires and from what car??
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HKS to upgrade what?

I would get either OEM or NGK Blue spark plug wires. I run the Blues on my car. As for which car to reference the wires from- I'm not sure, but if you get the del sol VTEC wires you'll probably be ok as far as fitment on your B16.
 
Thanks guys, I just ordered a cap and rotor for a 91 Teg. I ordered 94 del sol NGK dohc plug wires and 2 new cam seals.

How hard are the cam seals to replace? I'm mechanically inclined but never ventured far inside a motor. I've done a LS swap myself in my 94 coupe and taken the head off my sohc is the cam seals a big job??

How much more work is it to put in cams while i'm at? A friend has a brand new set of crower 1mm over type r that he'll give me for 350 still in the box is it worthwhile??
 
Cam seals and cams are easy to replace- just have your service manual handy and label everything as it comes off the engine. Make sure you use assembly lube when you put it all back together.

Crower 1mm over Type-R? Huh? R cams are one thing, 1mm over valves are another.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Feb 28 2005, 06:30 PM
Cam seals and cams are easy to replace- just have your service manual handy and label everything as it comes off the engine. Make sure you use assembly lube when you put it all back together.

Crower 1mm over Type-R? Huh? R cams are one thing, 1mm over valves are another.
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I'm not sure what they are exactly thats why I did'nt buy them. He has a GSR and they were for it. He said I can run stock valvetrain. He said the crowers are 1 duration higher then the typr R's or something along those lines. Basically he was saying they were just like type R's but slightly better
 
Oh, ok. He must mean the Crower stage 1 cams then- those are marked on Crower's page as just slightly more aggressive than the R cams.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Feb 28 2005, 07:10 PM
Oh, ok. He must mean the Crower stage 1 cams then- those are marked on Crower's page as just slightly more aggressive than the R cams.
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So those are dropin replacements that I can run on my stock valvetrain?
So those crowers should be atleast comparable performance wise to the type R's.
 
They should be- go check Crower's site, and if you're still not sure give them a call.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Feb 28 2005, 07:15 PM
They should be- go check Crower's site, and if you're still not sure give them a call.
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I have basic bolt on's iceman cold air,dc header,apex catback,gutted cat,skunk2 intake manifold,b&m fuel pressure regulater about what psi should it be set to?

Anyway can I add those cams or type r's with some cam gears and possibly gain 15-20hp if put on dyno?

Also I was about to get my throttle body bored to 62 mm should I get my skunk2 intake manifold port matched? To remove the throttle body is it just 4 bolts?

The car runs a 14.5 do you think I can run high 13's with the cams and tuning??

Sorry for be a newby but you seem very knowledgable about engines
 
Originally posted by Samuels+Feb 28 2005, 06:45 PM-->
Samuels @ Feb 28 2005 said:
I have basic bolt on's iceman cold air,dc header,apex catback,gutted cat,skunk2 intake manifold,b&m fuel pressure regulater about what psi should it be set to?
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I run mine at stock pressure- right above 40psi. Keep yours at stock fuel pressure and just tune the ECU.

Originally posted by Samuels@Feb 28 2005, 06:45 PM
Anyway can I add those cams or type r's with some cam gears and possibly gain 15-20hp if put on dyno?
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Yeah, I don't see why not. I've seen people with similar mods to yours make 195whp on a stock internal GSR with Skunk2 stage 1 cams (pretty close to Crower stage 1). Just make sure you tune on the dyno. I don't know about 15-20hp, but you should pick up some pretty significant gains. You won't make 195whp (that was a 1.8, yours is 1.6), but I guarantee you'll be pretty happy.

Originally posted by Samuels@Feb 28 2005, 06:45 PM
Also I was about to get my throttle body bored to 62 mm should I get my skunk2 intake manifold port matched? To remove the throttle body is it just 4 bolts?
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Yes, always port match the IM to the TB. Should just be 4 bolts.

Originally posted by Samuels@Feb 28 2005, 06:45 PM
The car runs a 14.5 do you think I can run high 13's with the cams and tuning??
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Maybe. :shrug2: Try it out.

Samuels@Feb 28 2005, 06:45 PM
Sorry for be a newby but you seem very knowledgable about engines
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That's ok- you're asking good questions, and I don't really know all that much anyway. :lol:
 
How exactly do I tune my ECU? I need a program for that don't I?

I'm not even sure what ECU is in the car the swap was done before I got it. I looked into getting 1 chipped but it seems like everyone is getting ripped with the knockoffs and some have had nothing but problems since especially the ebay 1's.

Is thier a place that can chip my ECU off my mods??
 
Yuo tune your ECU with either, Uberdata (OBD1), Turbo Edit (OBD0), Hondata(OBD1), or Chrome etc...It is somethign you would not be able to tackle (most likely) yet. Ask around or go to www.pgmfi.org and look at the tuner lists there.

Cam seals take 5 extra minutes to done once you ge tthe valve cover off. Make sure to buy some Honda Bond from honda when you get your seals and use that on the surfaces of the seals and caps that go over them. You can see where the builders originally used this stuff on teh motor all over the place. Very good liquid Gasket. Just follow teh directions on teh tube and u'll be golden.

I dont know anythign about swapping cams. I have heard it can be difficult if you dont mark everything...
 
i had that done a couple days ago on my ls/vtec and im glad i didn't touch it. I saw them work on it and thought i could just take the valve cover and change the seals....i was wrong.. big time. They started takeing everything off. It's not the hardest thing to do just pay attention. I could'nt of done it since i didnt have a timing light. And didnt know how to set the timing.

if your like me i would wait and see it done first. It cost me only 50$ thats including the seals.
 
My suggestion: Convert to external coil. The stock OE Honda Ignition has an internal coil that gets really hot or can... and sometimes will lead to a fire. It's rather easy to convert to external coil.

Brian
 
I did'nt no changing cam seals involve a timing light??

I thought I just had to take the valve cover off pop the end caps off the cams and put the new 1's on.
 
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