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B16 swap, no fuel pump power

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Kasper, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Kasper

    Kasper New Member

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    Just finished a wire tuck and b16 swap into my '90 si hatch. Motor cranks but I can't hear the fuel pump turn on. Here's a quick run down of info:
    -Chasebays CM1 wire harness
    -Chasebays tucked fuel line kit
    -OBD1 B16A with jdm p30 ecu
    Chase has horrible customer service and left me hanging on troubleshooting the problem. I'm trying to search but I'm on my iphone so I have limited battery available, so PLEASE help if you can. I don't need the "just search" comments. I'm working on it.
    I saw q thread similar to mine talking about his resistor box. I took mine out since that's what chase told me to do. Since I'm not using the stock wiring harness, could that still be an issue? What other things can I check? Everything was plug and play except for 4 wires.
     
  2. Kasper

    Kasper New Member

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    Oh, and I forgot to add... As soon as I connect the battery, the CEL stays lit, even with no key in the ignition.
     
  3. invisibledemon

    invisibledemon Bored Moderator VIP

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    either you missed a wire or ground somewhere, or you got a hold of a defective harness.
    would keep trying with the company.
     
  4. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    i agree with you about the wire harness being defective or a missed ground. however i dont like to get involved with swaps and aftermarket ECUs so i didnt know they have harnesses for swaps on the aftermarket. which means i dont know the quality of them from the different companies. but even MSD has quality issues that i have had and i even seen a speed tv production where they had an issue with a bad MSD part...only they got a new one in 30 seconds. i had to wait 2 days.
     
  5. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Something is definitely off. I would think there is a mix up in the wiring with the CEL on without key in the ignition to the 'On' position. Like others have stated, check your grounds and then check to make sure all plugs are going to their respective places. Can you try another ECU? Maybe a OBD0 B16A ECU???
     
  6. invisibledemon

    invisibledemon Bored Moderator VIP

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    even if the ecu was bad, its getting power when the key is not in the ignition.
    theres no reason that he should have any light on in the gauge cluster when the key is off and out.

    theres an issue with the wiring.
     
  7. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I agree......so it must be a wiring mix up either on the OP part or the wiring harness from Chasebays.

    I was just thinking of a possible thing to try so the OP knew that it wasn't the issue and wouldn't contemplate it being a 'possible' problem
     
  8. invisibledemon

    invisibledemon Bored Moderator VIP

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    yeah, if there were an easier thing to try i would say go for it, but with the issues he is having, theres only the wiring that can be to blame.
    obviously hes got a constant power wire going to the signal wire of the ecu, and no power or ground getting to the fuel pump.
    theres no telling how many other things arent getting the correct wire.

    my advice is to double check all of your connections and grounds first, ensure that they are in fact in the correct position and connected 100%.

    then triple check it.

    then check it all one more time. (seriously, you never know how many times you can miss a simple ground, believe me, been there)

    if you know 100% that everything is connected as it is supposed to be, then call them and arrange a return/exchange.
    if you have to send your back to them before they send you a new one, do something to your current harness to mark it so you know they arent just sending you the same one back.
     
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  9. Kasper

    Kasper New Member

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    Thank you guys for getting back to me! It was def. my mistake. My dumb ass had a ground connected to the starter, which happened to be the thermostat ground(which is why I wasn't getting power to the fuel pump).
    NEXT PROBLEM: Car is idling at around 1,100 rpms and when I quickly step on the throttle (typical 1st gear start lets say) the car bogs down really bad. Tried driving it today and it was almost impossible. If I stay under about 25% throttle, it'll get going, just really slow. I'm looking for vacuum diagrams, but the pic I have doesn't match my intake manifold exactly.
    Here's a pic for you to see what I got done during the build
    This isn't the most current pic. The intake is back on, with the hose going from the VC to the intake pipe.The brake booster hose is in place, the fuel return line is installed, and there is a "t" between the fpr and intake mani going to the thing on the firewall, because that's what the picture I'm looking at is drawn. I'm trying to track down some good pics of ef/ed's with the same setup so I can compare.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2010
  10. 34diesel34

    34diesel34 Import Tuner

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    Make sure you have the firing order right, good plugs and wires, and the timing set correct. Very clean swap. It looks almost like mine:cool:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2010
  11. Kasper

    Kasper New Member

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    Looking good! I haven't seen projectors on an ef in like 8 years. Nice touch.
     
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