b16 swap problems

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stevennn09

stevennn09

New Member
so i finally finished my swap and drove it for the first time today. theres a couple things wrong. first off the kid that i got the motor from capped off the coolant line that goes to the air intake with a screw and a clamp, also i got a broken fitv on my throttle body he said it would be ok if i just bypassed it so i just connected the lines that go to it together. my car is idling around 1500 rpms. also if i drive it around the block it will read that it's a little above the halfway mark on the temp gauge which im findind that to be extremely hard to beilve. also im getting code 8..which is tdc and also my tach is super messed up. make a converion harness obd1 1 obd2 for the dizzy...do you think that if i messed theese up it would cause both symptoms? sorry to sound like a noob im really not but im totallly stumped and i've been searching allll day and havent found anything out.. please help me!! i want my car to be noraml
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also somehow i just noticed that i dont have a bleeder valve and there is no threads where it's supposed to go plus im not leaking coolaant from there.
 
It sounds like your timing's obviously off cam timing or ignition timing, so time it first check the marks lined up on the pullys and do the ignition.

Just get plug n play harnesses from Rywire.com they have everything you need and will make you a custom one for your needs if they don't have it it's the easiest way.

Buy a new FITV or get one from a junkyard because Honda will absolutely dick you on the price of one of these.

That's a start. And I think that kid ripped you off. I would never buy an engine for a Honda from anywhere other than www.hmotorsonline.com or another reputable online JDM engine shop but hmotors has the best prices and I got excellent customer service.
 
what symptoms does the timing show? and yeah the kids a real d bag good thing i gave him an ls and a hundred bucks. and the ls i didnt pay a dime for.
 
Temp reading seems high for what I have experienced in EG Hondas. My EG thermo needle has sat
dead in the middle with the D16Z6, B18B, and B16A. Your burp the coolant system? Cant be
Thermostat b/c they stay wide open when they go bad.

Tach acting weird could be the dizzy...might just be one thats going out. Can you swap another one in?

Find TDC (on the PISTON) and see wear the cams sprockets line up at. (for code 8)

OBD2 ECU....? Engine harness off what Motor? If its OBD engine harness now....(what I'd do)

Get an OBD1 P30, JDM distributors have a bunch of them (or you can get an OBD1 that has a B16
base-map on it). Also get the OBD1 Dizzy, Alt (not sure about injectors but I think those too)

You can sell the OBD2 stuff somewhere and your swap will be OBD1 converted (better IMO)
 
i wired my harness for obd2 dizzy and alt. im running a p28, but have had MANY friends do the same and it's ran absolutely fine. the tach thing is i think a mistake in my wiring. i might have not soldered it good enough or somehow be getting a bad connection. the dizzy is practically new. it's actually timed correctly just checked that out. idk i have reason to beilve it's something to do with the coolant system. if i unplug the iacv the car stops idling high but starts to surge.. does that tell me anything? hmmm.idk. also he gave me a broken fitv so i by passed it so it wont leak.
 
Don't bypass the IACV...fix it.....and I would take the radiator cap off and make
sure the fan comes on...see if she burps and needs more water.

How'd you check for TDC? Did you change the timing belt before install?
Might be a bad sensor

I understand what you said about the conversion and realize it works...I just
like OBD1...and (IMO) keeping stuff like your car was from the factory can help
eliminate a lot of troubleshooting problems. But you've got it there so I agree with
you and you should check your connections made by splicing. Multi-meter time is
your cheapiest option.
 
well the kid i bought the motor from had it rebuilt by someone.. they didnt tighten down the rod caps to specs so lastnight i had a disaster. driving it home from a friends house where we were trying to determin the idling problem the motor was revving high and shot a rod through the oil pan which led to some huge problems.
 
Wow dude. Screw that I would've kicked that kids ASS but then again I wouldn't have touched the engine in the first place.

Good thing you're only out like $100, I'd probably just rebuild the head and make sure it's straight and sell it for a couple hundred, that or grab another block?
 
ouch...sorry to hear.

JDM motors are gettting cheaper and cheaper b/c some shops are overstocked (I was at one today)

OBD1 B16A are $1700 complete swap from the shop I was at today.

And you can always take a roll of pennies and use it as a fist load when you give this guy a broken tooth for your broken rod lol
 
CAFROG said:
OBD1 B16A are $1700 complete swap from the shop I was at today.
Click to expand...

Damn wish I lived in a bigger city with jdm engine suppliers. The OBD0 B16A swap is $1,650 complete from hmotorsonline and the OBD1 swap is still $2,250. Would rather take the OBD1.
 
he's got something nive coming to him. i thought it would be legit though i mean i sold the kid two motors before that and they were both perfect compelte motors. thought he would do the same. and im just trying to sell all that stuff. im giving my gf my shell and im just gunna save up some money for a month or two and buy an si from auction. but she's giving me her hatch shell in return so it'll be a complete restoration, since it's her frist car and getting her car was one of the last trips mine ever had we kinda have alot of like memories lol.
 
Caveat Emptor (Buyer Beware)

But the seller should be aware of waking up with a
hot sauce bottle shoved up his a$$ after he gets choked out. lol
 
haha! hes actually japaneese so im thinking some soy sauce.. now he's ignoring me. i might have to make a trip to his house. and i realy dont want to cause he's a pretty cool dude. well was.
 
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