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B16 Turbo build...still tryin to learn this stuff

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by Si6t3, Jun 2, 2008.

  1. Si6t3

    Si6t3 clean

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    Alright so my motor has about had it and i have money saved up to rebuild it and turbo it..also got a credit card to back me up just in case:D. I have a b16 and i live in california so i plan on doing this AFTER i smog it, but i still want to be able to easily switch some stuff up to smog it when the time comes again. Iv been reading through all the forums but i still got questions. Basically i want 300-400 whp. and i want my power in between 3k and 7k. What size turbo and injectors should i be looking at, and also what compression pistons? And yes i am a noob.......
     
  2. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    wellllllll, it's gonna be a pain in the arse to switch out the stuff your going to have to switch (like taking off the turbo, exhaust mani, piping, intercooler, fuel maps). visual inspection will be your biggest issue I'm thinking. you can tune obd2 on emanage. and it could even pass the tailpipe emissions test. it's visual inspection that's gonna get in the way.

    i dont have hands on experiance, so i'm not even going to suggest parts. i can say you dont want super low compression because you'll have more boost lag, thus power wont be as great at 3k.
     
  3. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Not true. Low compression doesnt cause boost lag, big turbo's cause boost lag.

    To the OP, making that kind of power isnt going to be easily done with a small turbo. I suggest a 60 trim, log style manifold (not the cheap ebay junk either), buy a TT manifold, or peakboost (my preference). Tial 38mm wastegate, and a decent BOV. Good charge piping with beaded ends, good couplers and t-bolt clamps. walbro 255 should be sufficient for 300whp, and some injectors in the form of 650cc roughly. Now you need engine management and tuning. On around 14-15 psi with a piston/rod/rod bolt/bearings swap, you should make the power your looking to make.

    Compression should be around 9:1 if you plan on tuning on pump gas and keeping some type of reliability.
     
  4. t3t4delsol

    t3t4delsol New Member

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    your also gonna need a new clutch, downpipe back bigger exhaust, a t3/t4 60 trim will be fine.
     
  5. Si6t3

    Si6t3 clean

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    Any suggestions on internals? And would i need a mild port and sleeves? I want it to be reliable still cuz its my daily driver.
     
  6. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    At 300 horse you dont need sleeves, but they will only help you.
     
  7. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Forged internals, ARP hardware, replace the bearings and seals while you're in there. Do it right, and you will have a reliable engine that will last.
     
  8. Si6t3

    Si6t3 clean

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    ok thanks for all the help..
     
  9. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    No problem.

    Another tip:
    Engine prep work and re-assembly can make a world of difference when assembling an engine. Hurry through it and don't take the time to properly clean and/or lubricate parts, and you will see catastrophic effects. The effects may not necessarily be within 3,000 miles of the completion of your build, but trust me, your engine will suffer. Take the time to do the little things like dab a little anti seize here, and some engine assembly lube there, and you won't be disappointed. Its better to do it right the first time around, and KNOW its done right.

    Tearing back into an engine you just rebuilt is NOT a good feeling.
    Best of luck to ya :thumbsup:
     
  10. amadeuscr

    amadeuscr Member

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    Great advices people , and you poster !, listen to them I have a very similar proyect and everything went very good thanks to the people in here !
     
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