b16 turbo question

[skillz2k5]

I have a b16 SiR II in my 96 civic right now with usual bolt on's (i/h/e) and want to turbo. My main question is what is safe for a bone stock b16 bottom and top end... not just how many psi but what turbo housing/wheel would be best. I do not plan to do anything at all to the bottom end in the future so please keep in mind (also this is my daily drivin vehicle for now so I dont want to be replacing parts every two months). I have a 250-300whp range in mind am I smoking crack for thinking this on stock internals??

Okay I'm a tard fuck... someone plz move to forced induction plz

 

[reikoshea]

250 isnt a bad goal stock....

if im right in thinking that a 4g63 and a b16 flow about the same, a 16g (preferably the bigger wheeld 16g) will get you to your goals itll take about 12-15 psi with the smaller one and 8-10 with the larger.

why dont you want to upgrade internals (at least pistons rods and rings). its kinda silly seeing as its a good safety precaution.

 

[skillz2k5]

I totally understand the need for upgrading internals as it is cheaper than buying a new long block or bottom end but I don't want to have to pull the motor and tear it apart. If I could get the turbo pieces together it might take a long weekend to bolt everything on and tune with afc "hack" or I could always order the new chip from phearable.net before I got started bolting everything up. Honestly what this is about is power gain without spending 1100 on cams/retainers/springs that wont even get me to where I want to be. Now that I have spoken my crazy peace... What turbo mani and waste gate combo should I pick up to run the larger sized 16g?? Also if the 16g has an internal wastegate (which I am guessing it does) what is stock rate at??

 

[reikoshea]

ya know what, forget what i said about the 16g. it was a silly idea. just get a t3-super 60 and call it a day. i dunno what i was thinking.

you can get almost any t3 manifold you want, just avoid ssautocrome and xspower....super crappy product.

 

[skillz2k5]

Thanks for the info man. If anyone else has usefull tips and tricks before I start buying it would be much appriciated!

 

[MikeBergy]

Topic moved to Forced Induction.

As far as getting to your goal of 250whp reliably on a stock block, spend a good chunk of change on tuning, as an afc hack or chip will only get you so far. Have you converted to obd1 yet? If not, do it when you go turbo, and get a socketed and chipped p28, and get someone to tune it for you, or tune it yourself with a wideband and/or egt. You'll make more power more efficiently, and you won't have any problems with your bottom end stock, provided that it is a good bottom end to start with. I'd personally go for a t3 hotside with around .5ish A/R ratio, and a t4 coldside with around a .6ish A/R. That will give you the CFM needed to make some decent power without boosting too much, and will give room for upgrading later.

 

[DFW]

Where you located? I'm sure there's a reliable tuner where you are that can tune Hondata or Neptune. As for the turbo, a Precision SC50 with .48 a/r should be perfect for you since you want to make at most 300whp. Is that the JDM b16? Don't those have higher compression than USDM ones?

 

[skillz2k5]

Thanks for all the replies... lots of good info. As far as obd goes I am fully converted to obd 1 (whole wiring harness not just jumper). I am currently running a Phearable.net chipped obd 1 ecu (as of today... awesome company). According to the owner of phearable I can order a new chip from him to throw in for 30 bucks when I am ready to turbo that should be very closely tuned already and should only have to spend about an hour on the dyno. The motor is the JDM version with a stock 10.4:1 compression ratio... as far as exhaust goes I would like to stay with what I have (2 1/2 inch straight pipe with a tanabe tuner madallion exhaust) so I am hoping this is feasable (any thoughts on this would be helpfull).

 

[reikoshea]

for 250 your exhaust will be fine (although opening it up doesnt hurt). before you call phearable check pgmfi.org and see if you can find something close...those maps are free.

 

[boostedz6]

i would look into finding a used or brand new t3/t4 turbo. specifically a 50-57 trim. You can find some decent used turbonetics turbo's from drag/revhard kits for pretty cheap if you look around. Those are generally v-trim turbos(54trim)

 

[93civicsir]

thanks, you all answered my question too, same setup but in a 93

 

[skillz2k5]

If you dont mind me asking what do you run in the 1/4 right now 93civicsir?

 

[93civicsir]

there is no track close by and im on call 6 days out the week, but have taken a 96 mustange gt twice by a fender. like that matters. i do plan on making a trip to kansas city this summer to find out.
what time did you get?

 

[preludebuddy]

I'm running a 57 trim t3/t4 on my stock b16. its a little big. it pulls hard when it hits but I dont really feel boost till vtec hits, the lag is pretty bad... I bought an obx manifold and downpipe setup because it was the cheapest ramhorn manifold I could find. people on other websites were giving me shit because obx is known to be a bad company..I know that. I made 278 whp at 7.5 psi on that manfold with no problems yet. as for tuning, dont hack. I was hacking and it was just terrible. get tuned for your specific setup too. I live at 8500 ft above sea level. I was also tuned at that elevation...when I head down to denver, where I do most of my driving, the car runs like shit. throwing any random map on, even though its tuned for your psi level isnt a good idea. you'll get more power and reliability out of a tune for your specific setup.
what clutch do you have now? the first pull I made turbo'd my clutch slipped like crazy. I had to replace it a week later.