b16a clutch/trans

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Fel-Pro does make good gaskets, You should be ok with it.
as far as the blockguard. . .Eh, I don't really know how the e-bay ones are compared to others, I Would recommend golden eagle, which you can get on ebay, but's it's not really an "ebay part"
The thing about ebay is you can get a great deal on something if you know what ou are looking for, otherwise you are just (in my opinion) buying junk. If you want to get something off ebay then make sure you know what you are getting, I know lots of people that have had really bad experiences with ebay, but I also know alot of people who have gotten really good deals.
I would stick to name brand when it comes to something that is going to be an integral part of your engine.
I have been doing business with golden eagle for about 10 years, so they have been in business that long. Probably much longer than that. They sleeve blocks so I would assume that their blockguard will do as it says.
 
yeah i read into golden eagle's blockguard... i also read about the install. i read that it should be done by having the engine out.. well my head was only taken off. i'm done with that, but now my fkn car wont turn on. i read on a forum that a potential thing is my ecu is wanting to adjust the timing on its own and i might need to jump it. well it was someone else's post but i have the same b16.

what do you think?

i start it up and i have to give it some throttle and it spudders at 500/600 rpm and it wont ever go up from there. i know my timing is right though.. :) i turned the distributor and nothing changes...

do you mind text messaging me. or emailing my phone, it would be alot faster and i think it'd be better

832-597-7602 or luis.a@tmail.com

once again, thanks alot for ur help
 
check your tps and your map sensor plugs, you might have them switched since they are the same plug.
 
no fix with the tps & map sensors.. wires only reach one length, same thing with the injectors.

what about fire order? well i left the distributor with the wires in it... then it only goes in one way. and i have Honda wires, so they only reach one cylinder.

then i did the timing like i always have.. cyl1 at tdc, being the one closest to the timing belt with my stock cam gears with the arrows UP. yet i have the same outcome :(

all sensors plugged up... what might i be leaving behind?
 
also, what is stock compression? i'm going to test that tonight when i get out of class... i've read minimum is around 90? does that sound right welfare?
 
I don't know what to tell you about the lack of power or what the porblem might be, if all you changed was the head gasket, you made sure to put all of the rocker arms back in the exact same place they came from right? If not then you might have to go back and re-do all of your valve clearances, there should be a post on how to do it here on the forum, it's really not that hard, you do need a feeler gauge though, and some knowledge on how to use one, otherwise your car won't run right because the valves will be sticking open when they are supposed to be shut and youwon't be abel to make any compression.
and yes, compression can be anywhere from about 90-120, anything less than about 75 I would check into.

Valve adjustment is outlined in the haynes manual for just about any Honda car, the spec for the 99-00 civic Si is Intake: 0.15 - 0.19 mm (0.006 - 0.007 inch) Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.21 mm (0.007 - 0.008 inch)

Ill try to put in a link but it probably wont stay up very long.
 
NOTE:

  • Valves should be adjusted only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
  • After adjusting, retorque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 177 Nm (18.0 kgs.cm, 130 ft.lbs.)
  1. Remove the cylinder head cover.
  2. Set No. 1 piston at TDC. The "UP" mark on the pulley should be at the top, and TDC grooves on the pulley should align with the pointer on the back cover. TDC grooves (white paint) on the crankshaft pulley should align with the pointer on the timing belt lower cover.
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Number 1 piston at TDC:


  1. Adjust valves on No. 1 cylinder. Intake: 0.15 - 0.19 mm (0.006 - 0.007 inch) Exhaust: 0.17 - 0.21 mm (0.007 - 0.008 inch)
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  1. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of drag.
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Adjusting screw location:

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  1. Tighten the locknut and recheck clearance. Repeat adjustment if necessary.
  2. Rotate the crankshaft 180°counterclockwise (camshaft pulley turns 90°). The "UP" mark should be on the exhaust side. Adjust valves on No. 3 cylinder.
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Number 3 piston at TDC:


  1. Rotate the crankshaft 180°counterclockwise to bring No. 4 piston to TDC. The sups mark should be pointing straight down. Adjust valves on No. 4 cylinder.
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Number 4 piston at TDC:


  1. Rotate the crankshaft 180°counterclockwise to bring No. 2 piston to TDC. The "UP" marks should be on the intake side. Adjust valves on No. 2 cylinder.
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Number 2 piston at TDC:
 
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