B16a swap. Turns over/ wont start

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1. Check The Firing Order

i.e. B16/D16 - Trans./Passenger Side - 4-3-2-1 - Belts/Driver Side On The Head

Distributor - Clockwise - 1-3-4-2

2. Most Spark Plugs Come Pre-Gapped - 30 Seconds To Double Check They Are Properly Gapped & 30 Days To Figure Out They Weren't.

The stock gap for the B16B is 1,1mm the same to B16A and B18C.

The original sparkplug for your engine is:

NGK
PFR7G-11

So if you want to use NGK iridium use:
NGK
BKR7EIX-11

Good gap for forced induction is .028 - .030

.030 is whats recommended when boosting, and make sure you get NGK's
 
Yes I Know It's Already Been Solved, Just A Good Reference For Anyone Who's Thumbing Through Before Posting A New Thread For The Same Problem(s).
 
Im dumbfounded, beautiful swap tho brother lovin the factory intake, could you be out of time ? just being a tooth off will make it hard to crank
 
Like your sig, hit yourself in the head and go 'D'OH'

did you do any type of research before you did this swap? not from 'friends,' but from actual places where people have done this and such?

p28 is the SOHC 1.6vtec ecu...
p30 is the DOHC 1.6vtec ecu

that first letter makes all the diff
get the right ecu and enjoy your new motor
+rep

this is what is so annoying about forums. When people post stuff they have no idea what they are talking about. you just made this guy spend money on a new ECU for no reason. Any B series engine will run fine with a P28 ecu. My daily driver is a 95 eg9 with a B16A swap and all I have is a "virgin" P28. Its been like that for over 7 years running perfect no problems what so ever. the P28 is the easiest honda ECU to program to work with any B-series DOHC VTEC engine and stock with have a good enough fuel map to run a B16 engine. next time do a little more research before posting incorrect info that obviously was not what got his engine to turn over. I can "guarantee" that if you put the p28 back in, it will turn over and run fine. Please do it and post up the result to make this asshole look stupid for making you spend money for no reason
 
Proof happens when you are comparing apples to apples and the only difference is a P28 vs. P30 on two B-series swaps. Dyno or heads up.

Anyways....quite the old thread you've resurrected. :thumbsdown:

If you read.....the solution was in the wiring.
 
Help!

I have a 93 civic with a b16a swap, ran fine and great went from TX to VA in 2 days no issues. Basically great car. One day shifter rod snaped, buddy replaced....never started again. Had no spark so replaced coil with a msd coil and everything on and gets spark but still wont start. getting fuel. tried jump start, starter fluid in throttle, and flood start. Fire order is correct did research. what could i check next?
 
dope, i know how you feel i had a bad B16 and hardly had any money so i got a B20 and my car had also sat for over a year did the swap and finally got it running and drove it home. it make me happy that i was not the only one having problems. that pics you posted, it looks like it came like that from the factory. good job bro have fun
 
I used a p28 on my d series and b series swap. You can use a p28 on b,h,d series no problem but I would double check timing your only supposed to have about half inch of play in the belt at the most I would double check the timing if it's got an inch of play it could have jumped time the second you tried to turn it over. Make sure crank is on the white mark cam arrows up side marks lined up and number one tdc. You can take the dizzy cap off and when it's tdc the rotor will be pointing at number one plug wire. If your getting fuel and fire I would suspect timing because if your getting that the motor has no choice but to fire off.
 
I'm pretty much having the same problem
I have a b16a bought this car would kind of run just ran like shit then full stopped running and would just turn over , got spark and got fuel
I got a new dizzy and still won't start any ideas lol
 
His problem was the wiring of the injectors
 
But it had a resistor box no ? I already had this car running and driving then the old dizzy crapped out and I put the new one on and still doesn't start
 
Where the numbers on the two distributors different? I ask because it may of had a different dizzy than the motor came with. I wonder that because of the OBD difference in the chassis and motor.
 
No it's the exact same dizzy I bought it brand new from a Jdm importers in Toronto
 
I would verify mechanical timing. Different ways to do it. I would take off spark plug #1 (near timing belt) and gently place a long screwdriver (or something like that) down the cylinder until it touches the piston. Then turn crank until that screwdriver is at the highest spot. That's top dead center for the bottom end. Then check to see how the cam gears are lining up.

If you have spark and fuel...must be something with the timing

Oops....any engine codes?
 
Hold ur main relay and turn ur key like ur about to turn ur car on but don't turn it all the way on if the main relay clicks twice its ur dizzy
 
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