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b16a throwing codes and making stupid clicking noise!

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by azn_hmong, Sep 8, 2008.

  1. azn_hmong

    azn_hmong New Member

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    Problem # 1
    ok so my engine is making a slow clicking noise which you can only really hear when you are inside of the car with the doors and windows shut. It seems like its coming from the throttle/timing belt/head area and I can't seem to narrow it down. When you are outside the car you can barely hear it. So I took off the head and found the timing belt to be a little loose. Re-did this procedure with friend's help and timing is perfect, the dumb noise persists, anyone have a solution to this or had this happen to them before?

    Problem # 2
    When I try to start the car, sometimes it starts and sometimes it takes multiple clicks of the key to start it. But it starts up everytime. I have a brand new starter and have checked grounds, they seem to be good... what else could I have over looked?

    Problem # 3
    Dizzy was throwing a CODE 9, had no choice but to replace it and got a brand new dizzy. CODE 9 went away and no engine light yay! Hit VTEC like 3 times to test if everything was working properly and engine light comes on again!!!!:mad: this time 3 codes come on, CODE 8 (TDC sensor), CODE 22(vtec pressure switch), and CODE 1(ECM). VTEC still works but very faintly and not as strong. When I turn the car off and on again, the engine lights go off and VTEC kicks in strong again!!! WTF!!!:mad: I have a p30 stock and the motor runs strong, doesn't seem to lag or anything. Just these annoying problems if anyone can help I WILL SEND THEM a LAP DANCE FOR CHRISTMAS!!!
     
  2. pooptugboat

    pooptugboat New Member

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    problem 1 may just be as simple as adjusting your rocker arms, problem 2 as in multiple clicks you mean you must crank for a bit or have to crank stop crank stop? and for problem 3 it may be the TDC sensor itself and the ecu going into limp mode because of not knowing the time, limp mode will defintly affect the performance, or it could be the ecu itself, but ide go with the TDC sensor, check to make sure the plug looks in good condition, no corrosion or freyed wire then use the haynes manual see what it says how to check the plug itself, then dont know if the TDC sensor is interchangable with a d series or ls, but if you find out it is try swapping the sensor itself. Goodluck let me know how it goes.
     
  3. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    I'd put money on sticking LMA's. (Lost Motion Assemblies) as the culprit for the clicking. B16s are old. Most exhibit this by now and need the LMAs replaced. Honda has redesigned them recently to a design much much less prone to sticking.

    The failure to start quickly could be temperature dependant (mine takes longer cold), or could be related to the distributor problems your having.

    That really sucks with your distributor. Was this motor swapped? Maybe you've got a loose wire or incorrect wire somewhere.

    lol lap dances! sweeeet this is the best bribe for an answer yet!! hahah
     
  4. azn_hmong

    azn_hmong New Member

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    you gotta turn the key itself multiple times for it to start. if you turn it once it will click and nothing happens, so you gotta keep turning the key and then boom it starts up. I think it's a bad ground somewhere but I haven't verified it with a voltage tester yet so I can't be sure all my grounds are good, old paint might be blocking electrical connection or something. Im gonna go with a replacement for a new dizzy and go from there for the TDC issue.

    Yea the motor is swapped, so far I have replaced: dizzy, water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, wires, head gasket, ecu, ac bracket mount to fit my dx ac on, throttle cable w/bracket. List of parts needed: new altenator, radiator, hoses, fix dumb noise, ac tensioner, belt for ac(YES I NEED IT!) :mad: this started as a 2,500 dollar endevor and has turned into a $7,500 dollar car! I am never doing this again! but i'll let you know how it turns out. thanks for the input guys!
     
  5. pooptugboat

    pooptugboat New Member

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    Ya defintly got a bad ground, jsut make sure its not the negative battery terminal, mine had just a little bit of corrosion and it would click and lose power turn the key off dot he same so i jiggled the negative battery terminal and it fired right up, cleaned the terminal and wire and it fires right upe every time.
     
  6. troymcwhorter43@yahoo.com

    troymcwhorter43@yahoo.com New Member

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  7. troymcwhorter43@yahoo.com

    troymcwhorter43@yahoo.com New Member

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    i need to know if i can just put any type of turbo on my swap
     
  8. George777

    George777 ^^ Likes Bewbies

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    How about you boost up your skills and learn how to post your own fucking thread. Don't threadjack someone else's. And if you need to ask if you can boost your swap, then you need to make yourself familiar with the search bar.
     
  9. craiger

    craiger New Member

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    No Threadjackingis right.
    OK. 1. ???
    2.have you checked out your fuel main relay under the dash. You say it clicks and nothing happens, this is what I would guess on that issue.
    3. I would agree with POOPER on the TDC Sensor.
    Good Luck
     
  10. azn_hmong

    azn_hmong New Member

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    yea, I swapped out the main relay with a known good one and still have that problem. Its not like it clicks over and over again when you turn the key, there is no noise, no clicks, no nothing when you turn the key. But if you keep turning, sometimes it takes alot of turning of the key, it will somehow catch and start right up no problems. I've never had this problem before its weird though cuz before I swapped the motor out my car started up fine everytime. The ground checks out good on the chassis so I can't seem to find where the problem is. Starter solenoid ground looks good, ground to chassis looks good, maybe its the solenoid itself? I duno, I'm gonna look at it this weekend so hopefully i find out wats wrong.
     
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