b16a to 1997 civic wont start

[SprintCar00]

i put a b16a obd 1 into my 1997 honda civic lx. i had the wiring harness rewired by hasport and got the ecu with the motor swap. the motor turns over but wont start. all lights on the dash ex. the check engine light, oil pressure lights all go off while turning over so i thenk its hooked up right it has fuel pressure to the top of the fuel filter and to the fuel rail but i pulled a spark plug and there is no gas laying on top of the piston no gas smell nothing, its dry. aany suggestions?

 

[killercannible]

Click the ignition on but don't start and listen to see if the fuel pump is priming. If not your not getting fuel.

 

[blz]

Somtimes on these engines that have been sittin around for a while the injectors won't flow right. I just took off my intake and helped it out a little the old fashion way. Just spray a little starting fluid right into the throttle body, see if it wants to run then. That will give you an idea if its fuel or spark related right there.

 

[norcalgsr]

Or you could just test for spark and find out the right way.

 

[SprintCar00]

stupid me forgot to hook up a ground. it fired right up as soon as i got that done, the motor seems to run good on top end but really rich on low end and its sucking gas. the motor wouldnt rev up after i started it so i unplugged the tps and it revs up but has a flat spot at about 3500-5000 rpm's at full throttle almost seems like its over loading on fuel. and im not real sure if its a bad sensor or what anybody else have any ideas, i was told that the motor would run better with the integra gsr ecu and that with that ecu it wont top out at 120 like mine does. is that true?

 

[norcalgsr]

The correct ECU would be a PR3 or a Del Sol VTEC ECU (I can't remember the number of it off hand). Check your ECU to see if it has any stored codes to start off with.

What ECU do you have in your car now? If it's a JDM computer they have a speed limiter built in that you have to remove by having it chipped.

 

[SprintCar00]

I am running the p30 ecu, and i tried hooking up our snap-on solus scanner but couldnt get it to connect with the ecu i think thats because its and obd-1 ecu in a obd-2a car? how would i get it to pull the codes?

the car is deffinately running rich im getting about at the tops 15 m.p.g not even puttin it to the floor just drivin around about 135 miles per tank on an 11.9 gallon tank runnin shell 93 octane and i already ran lucas oil injector cleaner through it twice. i got the tps hooked up and it seems to be running the same as it was with no tps. the motor runs good on top end and its def. makin the power it should be i beat a usdm integra gsr, it blows lots of black smoke when u first start it up the smokes got a heavy gas smell and leaves a residue on the ground if u even just barely tap the throttle but after u let it warm up its still got the smoke but puts out no oily residue. im not running a cat. converter and i have an oval canister so theres gona be some smoke but i wouldnt think it should be that black and smell of gas. ( i live in ohio they dont check smog very often so i can get away with it)

and even my stock d16y7 motor had a limiter at 120 mph which really can piss somebody off when its takes 3 flippin miles to get there and then that kicks in. but this ecu does the same thing the car just gets there alot quicker.

 

[norcalgsr]

Yeah the OBD1 isn't able to communicate in both directions like the OBD2+ ECU's can with a scanner. You can just jump your service connector in the passenger kick panel area (2 wire green plug) and your check engine light will flash the codes.

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Could be a bad fuel pressure regulator..

And as far as the GSR ECU you mentioned earlier I would keep the P30 since it's the OEM ecu for the B16a. Plus the GSR ECU will be looking for the IAB solenoid on the intake manifold that your engine does not have.

 

[SprintCar00]

havent checked fuel pressure, ill get on our computers at work we have a subsription to alldata and see what fuel pressure i should be at and check that, i was also told to check the output of the tps with an ohmeter? seems like a good idea make sure i dont have a bad tps. the black oil substance on the ground as i was talkin to a fellow employee and we thought that maybe the reason why its leavin that shit on the ground is the gas being the engine is running rich is mixing with the condensation off the exhaust pipe and blowing onto the ground and once the pipe warms up there is no condensation so it just blows into the air?

this morning i went outside ane the car started right up no problems let it warm up while i went back inside and came out pulled out of my drive way and i couldnt get the motor to go past idle or it would die. so i jumped out and unplugged the tps and it ran fine. kinda mind boggling how it will work one day and not the other.

how do i jump that plug? hook a wire between the 2? and watch for how many times the check engine light flashes 6 or 9 or 2 times and then get on the computer and find out what each code that it flashes is? i live in the town where the hondas are made and i work at TRC (honda's test grounds) as a mechanic. but the engineers dont seem to pay much attention to the swap.

 

[norcalgsr]

Yeah it could be a TPS too.. or the wiring to it. I don't know if you have to modify the wiring at all to make it work correctly in your situation.

Yes any kind of wire or paperclip will work to jump the service connector. There's actually an article on here that describes the process and has the codes so you don't have to look it up https://hondaswap.com/reference-materials/88-ecu-error-codes-29109/

 

[SprintCar00]

i also keep forgetting to put on here that i dont have my evap canister vacum line hooked up because i couldnt find the vacum nipple anywhere on this engine to hook it to. i dont think that that would be a big issue but i also dont no.

 

[norcalgsr]

It shouldn't cause any problems as it's only for emissions purposes.

 

[SprintCar00]

the ecu set codes 3,7,41 map, tp, and o2 sensors my wiring harness came with both the b16 and the d16 wiring adapters on it so i have two of everything which makes it hard and ive been switchin em around trying to get the right ones so im gona go switch those again and c what codes it sets and if it sets the same ones im left to think that the those sensors that came with the motor are bad?

 

[norcalgsr]

I'm thinking it sounds more like a wiring issue than 3 bad sensors although it's possible. If you have a multimeter you can check the output on all of them.

 

[SprintCar00]

i changed the plugs to the other ones, and got a 3 and a 7 code, the o2 sensor code went away, and the car wouldnt rev up and was idling irradic so i switched the map sensor back and it went to the normal idle and reved up fine, i cant find a multimeter that works in my garage so i have to go buy one 2morow and see what that shows me. i was looking at the wires on the tps and the color of the wires and the arrangement of them on the plug are differnt so i found the one which went to my d16 motor and plugged in the opposite one, and i thought i saw on the paper that my map sensor on the d16 was a 3 wire plug but the one im using now is only a 2 wire?