b16a Turbo Build

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Specc

Junior Member
Hey guys / gals.... just picked up a B16A... my goal is to turbo it ... what is a decent mild budget build up .... mind you i dont have 8grand to throw at a engine .. but for a thousand (minus the turbo and what not) what would you do for the build up on top and bottom end ? thanks in advance ..=)
 
id say do the DIY block filler (found in our tech articles) and then get some forged low comp pistons and rods. id also PnP your head for 1,000 bucks thats gonna be the start.

after that we are gonna need to know your power goals. if you want 400 hp, talk to hotrex, thats what his B16 teggy is currently running. 300 HP, you know the normal things you are gonna need.

P28/30, Crome, Wideband, someone to tune for you, injectors, FPR, Fuel Pump. Once you set a power goal we can help you out even further.

just for SnGs, check out johnnyracecar.com for your intercooler and cc-fab.net for your manifold and charge pipes.

after that its all just turbo selection for your power goal.
 
well i do want to go the turbo route.. thanks for the link .... i dont have to sleeve the block to push decent psi via turbo ? i plan on 300 hp for a goal. what about top end work ? obviously pnp ... but what about valvetrain .. is the top / bottom end ok for 300 hp ? i didnt think that it was that strong ... what kind of top end mods and bottom end mods would you suggest ... currently it is obd 0 setup ... should i go obd1 ? or stay obd 0 ? does it matter?
 
obd0 is fine, just use turbo edit instead of crome. I wouldnt run a 300HP B16 on stock internals, but you definitely can...i just like my shit to have a little bit of play in it if something unexpected happends.

i dont know what the flow numbers are like for a B16 so i cannot recommend a turbo, but wait long enough and someone will tell you which route to go... (id guess a T3/60-1 would be good, but still wait for someone to back me up on it)
 
ill be making 500whp on my lil b16a here soon on stock filled sleeves.

id do pistons/rods and devcon. block will take at least 400whp in that form.

get a t3/t4e 60 trim thatll be pretty badass yet still very streetable.
 
pistons / rods... should it be bored / honed .. or you using factory bore ? what is the factory bore for b16a ?

whats a good compression goal since it is going to be a turbo setup ? and how should i go about getting there? ... thanks for the help / advice by the way
 
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pistons / rods... should it be bored / honed .. or you using factory bore ? what is the factory bore for b16a ?

whats a good compression goal since it is going to be a turbo setup ? and how should i go about getting there? ... thanks for the help / advice by the way

1) rods - you can't go wrong with Crower econo billets or eagle H-beams, they are both good. If you are gonna be going really big later on, maybe invest in some cunningham rods :)

2) pistons - CP is IMO the best piston out there, customer service is top notch. Wiseco and Arias are also great brands.

3) compression - If you want a responsive engine off boost and are only looking for around 300 whp, I'd say probably closer 10:1 compression is what you'd want, but if you are just looking for good on boost performance and are shooting for bigger numbers, around 9:1 is a better place to be. Just get pistons that will get you the compression you want. No need to mill the head or get a thinner head gasket, but those options are always available.

4)If you are not going to sleeve the motor, then stay with the stock bore, as this will give you the strongest cylinder wall to work with, and that is what you want in a boosted engine. If you sleeve the motor, I'd go with 84mm bore (stock is 81), as there is a large aftermarket piston support for that size. That will increase your b16's displacement to a bit over 1.7 liters, and will give you a bit more torque and room for growth.

Just my .02 :) FWIW, my b16 build to come will consist of cunningham rods, cp pistons, 10:1 compression, AEBS closed deck sleeves, 84mm bore.
 
awsome reply thanks i got alot of information off of that ... i will look into getting the parts now .. thanks again
 
JE and SRP are also good brands to go with, and you can get em from us (check my sig)

you can also get the Eagle H-beams from us as well.
 
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JE and SRP are also good brands to go with, and you can get em from us (check my sig)

you can also get the Eagle H-beams from us as well.
:werd:
JE makes good stuff too, they just never come to mind for some reason.

Reikoshea, I might hit you up for some GE H-beams when I start building the turbo engine.

Mike
 
:werd:

overlap kills FI engines...doesnt make power and its just not safe to run too much overlap. something tells me you dont need extra help moving the air in the combustion chamber when your moving it at 10psi over normal.
 
that dyno can say what ever it wants to, but when you have already combusted gas (and not the small ammount the EGR circulates) in the IM and it tries to get combusted AGAIN you are going to have pre-ignition because of the heat generated by the exhaust. The turbo back pressure coupled with the overlap (meaning the intake and exhaust valves are opened at the same time) cause the the gases to be combusted a second time. im not saying you WILL blow up your engine, but its hella more likely.
 
kk quick question ... well maybe not .... i have a b16a of course.... but would a b16a block or a b18c block with my b16 head be better for a turbo setup ?
 
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b18b...might as well have low comp from the start.

just stick with the b16a block. a gsr block is great, but not necessary. If you can get either for free, get the gsr. Stick with the b16a and boost a bit more. Some turbo cams, a good tune, and you are set with a high revving block on the squeeze. good times.
 
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