B16a turbo HELP
- Thread starter amadeuscr
- Start date
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I am working on the valve lash right now , it's like this
IN , 0.007 should be loose , 0,008 smooth, 0,009 can't fit in !
EX, 0,009 should be loose, 0,010 smooth, 0,011 can't fit in !
right ?
I took the information from this page , that's why i used that measures ,
what do you think about it ?
B18C Valve Adjustment - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedracing.com
IN , 0.007 should be loose , 0,008 smooth, 0,009 can't fit in !
EX, 0,009 should be loose, 0,010 smooth, 0,011 can't fit in !
right ?
I took the information from this page , that's why i used that measures ,
what do you think about it ?
B18C Valve Adjustment - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedracing.com
I am going to stick to your recommendation . I checked the lma by pushing them and see if they get stuck at some moment , but all of them seems to be smooth. ! I just saw that the timing belt is loose , is there a way to tight it up a little bit without taking all apart ?!
LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
According to AllData, the lash should be as follows:
Intake - .007in
Exhaust - .008in
LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
Also, correct procedure for adjusting lash should be to start with cylinder #1, make sure your piston in cyl #1 is at TDC. Once that cylinder is finished, spin the crank again until cylinder #2 is at TDC. You can check to make sure it is accurate by the timing marks, checking the direction of the rotor in the distributor cap or put a straw in the cylinder and watch it go up/down and make sure it is actually at TDC. This is also a great way to make sure your timing marks are accurate. Than proceed onto the cyl #3, and finally cyl #4.
I think I can't get better help than you people thank you very much , here in costa rica is hard for the people to help you , all the people that knows they keep all the information for themselves and they don't like to share anything.
I like more the TDC way , on UP and TDC with cyl 1 , ex of 2 and int of 3 , and turn the crank to backup TDC will have cyl 4 , ext of 3 and int of 2 , the reference is at TDC both ways , I think is the more accurate. The problem about getting the rotor as reference is that if I have the distributor not timed well , it will be as putting the straw/screwdriver , is not that accurate but with nice timed distributor is a nice reference too .
Blanco , doing that with tensioner will tight up well ? , the last time I loose the tensioner it got the belt loose really bad lol , I will try anyways I need to tight it up even if I have take everything apart ! , I adjusted the valve lash int 8 ext 10 and the ticky sound is less but I still have it, all lma's are loose at the begining and then they get tighter , I don't know if it was like that before my mechanic install the new pistons, but it doesn't look like the reason of the ticky , By the way i lost some torque in normal driving , racing I think I didn't lose that much or at all cause I still can feel nice power.
I like more the TDC way , on UP and TDC with cyl 1 , ex of 2 and int of 3 , and turn the crank to backup TDC will have cyl 4 , ext of 3 and int of 2 , the reference is at TDC both ways , I think is the more accurate. The problem about getting the rotor as reference is that if I have the distributor not timed well , it will be as putting the straw/screwdriver , is not that accurate but with nice timed distributor is a nice reference too .
Blanco , doing that with tensioner will tight up well ? , the last time I loose the tensioner it got the belt loose really bad lol , I will try anyways I need to tight it up even if I have take everything apart ! , I adjusted the valve lash int 8 ext 10 and the ticky sound is less but I still have it, all lma's are loose at the begining and then they get tighter , I don't know if it was like that before my mechanic install the new pistons, but it doesn't look like the reason of the ticky , By the way i lost some torque in normal driving , racing I think I didn't lose that much or at all cause I still can feel nice power.
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como estan mi nombre es jose miguel soy de bolivia, tengo un jdm civic type r 99, la persona a la que le compre el auto ya le habia puesto los siguintes accesorios, admision skunk2 pro, greaddy t4 kit con intercooler greaddy, riel de inyectores AEM, prensa y disco ACT, levas skunk 2 para turbo, poleas AEM, nyectores greaddy de 500, pistones wiseco para acura turbo de 81 mm, bielas eagle, valvulas de acero inoxidable CROWE, nitro nx y muchas cosas mas, pero el auto nunca llego a andar bien por que coloco todas las `piezas juntas y no se sabe que es lo que le falta, solo cuenta con un controlador de boost AVCR, Y UN HKS para un riel de inyectores adicionales, me guastaria saber si alguien me puede aconsejar que puede estar fallando.