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b16a

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by 1sikef, Mar 28, 2009.

  1. 1sikef

    1sikef New Member

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    I have a jdm b16a comverted to obd 1 with a p30 ecu. its a good running motor but once in a while it has a bogging problem. when i press on the gas its like its holding back and hesitating. but it only does it sometimes. its throwing a code 20(ELD) and thats it. any ideas?
    Thanks!
     
  2. George777

    George777 ^^ Likes Bewbies

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    ELD is your electronic load detector. Google it. There have been a few articles on here about replacing them.
     
  3. 1sikef

    1sikef New Member

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    all i can find is how to replace them in n eg, but what about a crx?
     
  4. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    the ELD is an integral part of the underhood fuse box and the entire underhood fuse box must be replaced to fix the ELD. However, you can specify when making a ROM (chip) to disable the ELD. Some P30s dont have an ELD, others do. Mine does. P30-J00 with a C6 revision on the ROM
     
  5. 1sikef

    1sikef New Member

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    yeah im going to replace the fuse box and see what it does, but i put my buddy's chipped p28 and it ran the same still boggy, and no codes, i changes the tps and omed it out, i dont know what it can be, when it runs good it runs good but when it boggs there like no throttle response at all
     
  6. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    The TPS doesn't rely on Ohms. It relys on a voltage signal. Did you set it to .45v closed throttle?
     
  7. 1sikef

    1sikef New Member

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    yeah its in spec. i mean i just dont know what the problem is. ive tried everything in my knowledge to fix it but nothing is working. i fixed some minor exhaust leaks, its getting enough fuel, spark. all the sensors are good, i fixed the ELD, replaced o2. its seems like it boggs more the warmer the motor gets, but still boggs when cold. it only boggs some times and when it does there very little throttle response, but when its in vtec it pulls
     
  8. OBD0SiR

    OBD0SiR New Member

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    i am having the same problem in my obd1 converted b16. does it typically do it at lower rpms when cruising but then you can get through it by giving it more gas or letting off?
     
  9. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    lol... ok well now mine's doing the same thing at 3-4k rpm... though i did recently put on a moroso clear dizzy cap, i've since changed it back to stock to try to fix the hesitation. so far hasn't helped. maybe i ground the rotor too short with the new cap. i have yet to try a new rotor. but i also have a catch can system and it's getting mostly a substance relating to gas. hazy, soupy, but gasoline~ish smell.

    yeah with my hesitation issue, you can give it about (i have hondata datalogging) 8% more throttle and then it "gets over it" and pops back to normal. or letting off and resuming works. vtec pulls hard, basicly all WOT feels strong too. also things i'm seeing with the datalogging are an unsteady o2 readings. i have yet to put my wideband o2 in though. the narrowband which is new from autozone is showing voltage swinging wildly. i also get a little knock at times, maybe because my lma's are sticking. not sure, got new lma's though today. i'll get those in soon. i can post my data log recordings from hondata if anyone wants to see.
     
  10. OBD0SiR

    OBD0SiR New Member

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    I dont know how your tuning is, but i have suspected that mine is putting WAY too much fuel in when its at low throttle. i have gone through about 4 different caps and rotors. they all start out better, but then all end up going back to hesitation. My narrow band O2 usually gets no reading, but then bounces around as you were saying. Once you have driven for a while does it stop doing it?
     
  11. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    no the more I drive it the more it hesitates. Tried the best condition cap I had with my current rotor last night and it ran great for about 15 miles then reallly started hesitating. The whole drive home. From when the motor was cold to even when the motor was warm. I think I need to check my timing. I pulled my plugs last night too, they all look good. iiiidk. what do you think?
     
  12. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    By the way I'm using the stock chip (again). Otherwise I was just running a Hondata rom with stock maps. P30. Still haven't quite fixed it. A different cap and rotor off my Y8 seemed to help it some but then again it's not a common occurance. It can be pretty random. Also, one thing I noticed today, holding the throttle steady at 3k rpm for instance, sometimes it will sit at 3k for a few seconds, waver, and then fall 500 rpm or so. Like it's retarding the timing or something.

    Researching all related links...

    http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da/b16a-issues-60119/
    http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-maintenance/b16a1-hesitation-51107/
    http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed-ef-da/b16-crx-hesitation-91990/
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2009
  13. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    YB have you considered the distributor? It wouldn't surprise me at all, but I'm biased. ; )
     
  14. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Ya, I considered it. But since I don't have another OBD1 dizzy, I was aiming for that as last. Hoping datalogs could point the way.

    But I think I got it. I adjusted the TPS again because it was about .44 volts. This time instead of going for .45, I went for .5v. Now it seems to run good. It wants to even create more power going up hills instead of lose power like before. I'm going to give it more time, because I just did this an hour ago and only got 15-20 miles on it after the adjustment (but all seems good thus far). I'll let you know tomorrow if that fixed my predicament.
     
  15. OBD0SiR

    OBD0SiR New Member

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    how did it work out? did it stop hesitating?
     
  16. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    You've got a huge asset in that hondata, however data logging is a pain in the ass trying to diagnose intermittent problems. If the problem comes back try to log while it's doing it and post the info here. I hope you get it worked out though, I know all to well the agony of one stupid little hic-up keeping you from enjoying your baby.
     
  17. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Welllll the tps helped a ton. But still hesitating. Since I have the stock chip in, and I forgot my laptop at my buddy's house, I haven't been datalogging lately. So I had the multimeter hooked up to the o2 all day as I drove around. Seems like the o2 stops giving signal every once in a while. And sometimes it's putting out the usual 0.2-0.9v but then more of the time it's putting out -0.76v or so. When it bogs is after the voltage has been at 0.06ish. Weird.

    Trying to find my receipt for the autozone o2 so I can just get it replaced regardless to see if it's the issue. Haven't found it yet. But I have my wideband I can wire in off the plx box as a narrow band. I'll post back what happens next.
     
  18. OBD0SiR

    OBD0SiR New Member

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    You got to a possible solution before i could say it...i have been suspecting my O2 sensor of being shitty and finally took it back to autozone to warranty it out and mine hasnt bogged or hesitated since. hopefully that helps you aswell..good luck
     
  19. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    yup i got a new o2 and all seems well! haha. must have been spring time auto allergies.
     
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