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b16a1 into 93 integra

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by tegrar, Oct 7, 2004.

  1. tegrar

    tegrar Junior Member

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    just a quick question, and please only respond if you actually know what you are talking about and have a good answer, what do you think about the b16a1 obd0 into a 93 integra? i know how i want to set up the motor, skunk2 cam shafts, cam gears, valve springs and retainers, Toda timing belt, spoon headgasket and mugen header. which i think will make for a good strong setup, but i'm getting different suggestions about the obd0. just wanted to see if anyone has any experience in this and if it would be better to do obd1. i would think obd0 is better cause there is no restrictions on it, but someone told me that the obd1 is better to tune. any help would be greatly appreciated or any suggestions. i was also thinking about just getting a mugen ecu but it's $1200. and $1200 could buy me a lot of other shit. i'm doing the swap in december so speak now or forever hold your peace.
     
  2. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    You need to do a LOT more research before investing that kind of money. 1st off, Mugen is overpriced crap. Its good stuff, but there better parts for cheaper out there. Mugen = Rice. Next, Toda timing belt is a BAAAD idea. Use OEM honda for sure.

    Now for your engine choice. With all that stuff in your engine, you'll be lucky to have 180hp crank and 130ft/lbs torque. These #s are COMPLETELY unacceptable for a teg. If you want to do it right, go with a GSR, LSVTEC, or B20VTEC engine. The added displacement will give you more torque and then you can run all oem without adding all those expensive parts. It'll be cheaper, more powerful and more reliable.

    If you want to tune, go OBD1. That way you can run Hondata. Hondata is THE best honda engine management system out there, but if you're short on cash you can run Uberdata (a free engine management system that many claim to be as good as hondata: runs only with OBD1).

    So....my conclusion:

    b16a + teg = worthless. You'll have very little power. Even a b18b engine would be better. b16's are torquless wonders (thats why they're great in CRX's :ph34r:) but in heavier cars they are useless.

    Don't waste your money on parts you don't need like the bling timing belt, headgasket and header. A JDM ITR header is better and cheaper than a mugen one. If you want engine management go Hondata or Uberdata

    My suggestion: go with a b20 with an OBD1 GSR or B16a2 head and either run high comp pistons or turbo it. Then use Uberdata to tune and you've got yourself a nice $5000 setup that'll kick some serious ass.
     
  3. brc80

    brc80 Senior Member

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    I have a b16 in my Da teg. Although its not a slow car, it is by no means a fast car either. I have the usual I/H/E and i still wish i woud have gone ls/b20/vtec with it.
     
  4. tegrar

    tegrar Junior Member

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    hondata does offer a program for the obd0. and i must say, that is the first time i have ever heard mugen refered to as rice. and toda makes some of the best stuff on the market. the reason for the spoon headgasket is to raise the compression .3 not to mention the quality of their parts. the torque thing is my main concern. the engine will put out great horsepower after all is said and done, but my b18a will probably have more torque then the b16 with all the mods. i did consider the ls/vtec swap but i'm not sure. i have about a month left to decide so hopefully i can get some more good insight. thanks for the responses.
     
  5. cycloneb18c3

    cycloneb18c3 Senior Member

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    I have to agree it dosent make nearly enough torque, you should look into doing something with more displacement first(b18c1, or ls/vtec or b20 vtec)

    -hrm....when my b16 was stock(I/E) I beat 92 integra with a stock engine(b18a1), with IHE, and cams., and I beat it by at least 3 car lengths in 1320.

    my suggestion is not to get a jdm itr header if you plan on lowering your car(at all) with stock springs, but blown shocks, the ITR header sits low enough that it scrapes, and you have to cut the front crossmember. Place Racing makes a front crossmember(which is the cheapest Ive found at around 250 bucks). Jim fab and a couple others make it, but they want too much money(around 400), for the same thing, that I can get for 250.

    Dont spend your money on stuff you dont need. save it for when stuff breaks(cause it always does). you dont need a 150 dollar timing belt, when a stock honda one is good enough for all street cars.

    This is all just my opinion, cause i have a 91 teg, and some of the stuff i ran into problems with(like the crossmember).
     
  6. foolish

    foolish Member

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    if thats you main concern then do a lsv. You get the best of both worlds.
    If some one built a lsv with the same parts as the b16 you want. And both of you were good drivers the lsv should come out on top. The b16 is a good motor. What it lacks in torque it makes up for in fast revving. But a built lsv has tq and a good rev as well.
     
  7. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Just get an Sir2 Swap... its OBD1 and would actually be easier to swap than the OBD0 setup...
     
  8. 88_HONDA_CR-X

    88_HONDA_CR-X Junior Member

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    yea i do agree you get the best of both worlds... but you will sacrifice rod/stroke ratio in means of reliability in high rpm... i would personally go for b16 and just increase displacement by boring the cylinders and get oversized piston on whatever bore size you decide to go w/
     
  9. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    :werd: I'll take displacement from bore increase over stroke increase anyday. The b16 may not be a torque monster, but there are one million ways to win races, and torque isn't always the answer. THe best built honda motors out there are rev-happy, regardless of stroke. Last time I checked there aren't many I-4 torque monsters coming out of the honda factory, unless you want to consider the k24 or k20 motors, but that is another league. Just build the engine so you can spin it fast, and you should be gravy. b16a sir2 is prolly what I'd go with if I was in your shoes. THen bore/sleeve to 85mm, and up the CR a bit. Good luck man.
     
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