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B16A1G2 Manual Swap into 93 Hatch Auto

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by confusatron, Jul 15, 2005.

  1. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Hi, this is my first civic project, I am swapping in a B16A1 Gen 2 with a 5 speed manual into my 93 Civic Hatch which currently has the D15B7 with automatic. I know the whole things coming out anyway, but what all will I need to do to put this swap into this car, besides frankensteining the clutch pedal thru the firewall. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    K, I realize that the unspoken answer is "Do the research yourself dude, don't post a question like that on the forums as it's already been asked a thousand times" right? But I thought I'd give it a shot anyway. So for the past week or so I have been looking around and googling, and lo and behold, Hasport pretty much had all my answers. :) Real good phone tech support too. Anyway, my swap package arrives this coming morning from naganojapanese.com, and I guess I'll find out what kinda shape this thing is in then. Only took four days or so to get here (Chicago) from Quebec, Canada. Not bad IMO. I have to order a few parts (auto to manual swap Hasport trans mount, shift linkage if the swap package doesn't include it, a Hasport wiring sub-harness, and a couple vtec del sol radiator hoses) but other than that this thing should be up and running within a few weeks. My mechanic is doing the job for me, and I'm just gonna hang out and try to learn whatever I can. I think I'm gonna leave it unmodified till I have some more dough next year, but I do plan to do the AEM hybrid intake thing and a magnaflow catback.
     
  3. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    So I guess you are keeping it a cable clutch? Since it doesn't have any hydraulic lines anyway, no point in going through that PITA.
     
  4. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Nah, it's the Gen 2 B16a, so it's got the hydraulic clutch.
     
  5. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Confusing title then, B16A1 = cable clutch 1st gen.
     
  6. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Yeah you're right, I musta screwed that up. Got the swap today, looks pretty good so far. Gotta fill it up with oil tomorrow to check compression/leakdown. Also thinkin about changing the timing belt/water pump, and testing the alternator.

    Now: the bigger issues. My mechanic pointed out to me that I will need some more parts that I hadn't thought of. Since the existing setup is Auto, I have no hydraulic fluid reservoir for the hydro manual trans hydraulic lines. Also, I will either need to find some lines from a wrecked civic (? or integra or del sol?) at the junkyard, or see if the parts store can get these for me. Tomorrow I'm makin a trip out to the junkyard to scope out this wrecked EG hatch that had a manual trans in it before the entire driveline was taken out prior to being junked. I have to see if I can get the clutch pedal out, and whatever else is left. With any luck the lines, reservoir, and linkage are still in there, I can't remember if they were last time I was there. If I can't scavenge the linkage, I know Hasport sells a set.

    Any other tips/info you guys have would be great.
     
  7. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    You're goint o need a custom mount for the tranny, and you're going to need to rewire the lock out. There's wiring instructionms on here somewhere.
     
  8. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    well he mentioned that he needs the hasport mount, so I think he already knows that.

    as for all the hydrolic stuff, it really isn't as hard as you think.

    you need the manual pedal tree set (both the gas and brake section, AND the clutch pedal) then you need the clutch master cylinder which will normally have the resivoir attached to it. For the hydrolic line, any integra, del sol or eg civic will work. Find a civic that has had the engine removed and everything should be really easy to get to.
     
  9. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    I did some work on the junker today, got all the hydro lines under the hood unfastened from the firewall. I unbolted the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal, but couldnt get the damn thing apart. Then when I got home I cracked open my Haynes manual, and realized that there's two pins holding the cylinder piston to the pedal, so I gotta go back Friday and finish the removal. Hopefully they don't crush the damn thing before I get back on it. BTW, thanks, I thought I only needed the hydro line that goes to the tranny, didn't know I needed everything. I'll have to just take all the hydro lines out to make sure I get em all or something.

    The linkage on the junker has been cut already, so I'll have to get one from somewhere else. Also, I found an article written by this dude in Trinidad who has done this exact conversion already, and got some helpful tips from it. Seems like the hardest part will be the wiring.
     
  10. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Okay, I got the hydro line, clutch master cylinder, and clutch pedal out today from the junkyard. I don't know about the tree for the gas and brake pedal, because my car already has the same lines as the car I was stripping them from, so I left those lines in the junker and just took the clutch hydro line. The clutch line was on its own separate...well, line...it wasn't connected in any way to the brake or gas line that I could see.

    I ordered the shifter linkage, auto-to-manual trans mount, and the ECU wiring sub-harness from Hasport today. It should be here by the end of next week, or so I hope.
     
  11. deth101

    deth101 Senior Member

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    Wiring for the auto to man is easy.
    Take the two largest wires off the auto wiring under the gearlever and route them to the clutch pedal's lower connection,black with yellow stripe and black with white stripe dosnt matter which pin as long as both are there,this stops the car from starting without the clutch in.
    Then under the dash driver side you will find a blue box about 4"Lx3"Hx1"D.This is the auto key lock thing just disconnect it and you can take the key out.Done.
    I never wired the reverse lights up.Feel free to pm me if you get stuck.

    EDIT: and yeah I read that hybridgarage Trinidad article and its much easier to just disconnect the blue box than glue the old auto gear selector and hang it somewhere,this way you can just cut the whole thing out,tape up all but the 2 large black wires and be done.
     
  12. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    you need the manual tree pedal set because the brake pedal on the auto tree is fricken huge, and I doubt if you'll even be able to fit the clutch pedal next to. If you can, chances are is its going to be EXTREMLY close. For the actual lines and all that stuff connected to yours, they are the same and will bolt up. You just need to remove all those gay little cotter pins first.
     
  13. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Thanks guys. Hey since the B16A2 wasn't available on US cars at that time, how do I go about getting the timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, spark plugs, wires, etc. for the tune up and stuff? I was looking around and found that the engine listed for the 1997 Del Sol is B16A2 as well. Is this the same engine and will its parts work on the B16A2 that I have?
     
  14. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Hmm, after some more googling, it seems that the engine on the del sol is the B16A3, not A2, which makes a little more sense. Although I'm still in the dark as to where to get my tuneup parts for the B16A2.
     
  15. deth101

    deth101 Senior Member

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    99-00 Civic SI B16A2.
     
  16. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    So far I've gotten 94-95 Del Sol VTEC, 96-97 Del Sol VTEC, and now 99-00 Civic. The B16A2 was in both the 99-00 Civic and the 96-97 Del Sol VTEC, but the 94-95 Del Sol had a different motor, the B16A3. I bought the belts and hoses yesterday for the 96 Del Sol VTEC, so hopefully they fit this weekend when we start the swap.

    Also, as far as the manual vs. automatic pedal tree thing: I think if the big ass brake pedal for my automatic tree is too big, I'll just cut the fucker down to size, and skip the rubber pad, or just get a cheap pedal kit from auto zone or walmart and put that crap on there.

    Honestly I'm scared shitless about the wiring more than anything with this swap. I've got quite a few wiring keys printed out and some other instructions on which splices to make, etc., but since I've never done it before I've got some anxiety about it. My mechanic says it shouldn't be a big deal, but I still have my doubts.

    Oh and the shipment from Hasport hasn't arrived yet, so I've got that on my mind too.
     
  17. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    Ok, today we pulled the old D15B7 out. That was a real bitch getting it out thru the top, but we pulled it off with no major problems. This motor/tranny doesn't have a whole lot of good mounting points for a hoist. Kinda gay.

    it looks like there are already knockouts punched in the center console subframe thing for the shifter bracket. They pretty much line up perfectly, or so it appears. Seems like I'll be able to keep my center console with the NASA popup cup holder after all. Just need a shift boot.

    I installed the clutch pedal, wasn't too hard, and in the process removed that little blue box that was in the way. Installed the clutch master cylinder and the hydro lines to the frame rail, so far so good. The clutch pedal did NOT interfere with the existing brake pedal by the way. There is about a 2 inch gap between the two, maybe slightly less. Shouldn't be a problem driving though. Or so I hope. If not I can always get the other pedal from the junkyard.

    We noticed that the wiring harness plugs seem to be on the wrong sides of the motor. I assume this is because the JDM motors are for a right hand drive car, and so the driver side plugs would be opposite mine. I've been googling forever for detailed information on exact wiring changes, but so far haven't found enough to answer all my questions. Especially this particular problem. It looks like though that we'll be able to unclip most of the wire bundles and switch them to the opposite sides.

    Oh and by the way, my driveshafts are too small to hook up to the B16A2. That was a nice little surprise, so I guess I must have misread something somewhere when I was doing my initial search. I'll have to order those Monday or something.

    Another thing: All the information I've gathered as far as swap guides goes says that for this particular swap some of my motor mounts/brackets have to be changed, but so far we were lining up the mounts of the b16 with the old mounts, and they appear to be EXACTLY the same. The only different mount I needed was the Hasport Auto-to-Manual transmission bracket, and I have that. Any thoughts?
     
  18. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Wait till you try to put the tranny bracket on :)
     
  19. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    yep, if you have the hasport coversion mount, then you don't need to do any cutting or welding. It is really easy if you have the right parts.
     
  20. confusatron

    confusatron Senior Member

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    What do you mean? We put the Hasport conversion mount on the B16 and the holes line right up with the trans bolts, and it fit perfectly in the frame rail bracket. Is there another trans mount that you're referring to?
     
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