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B16A2 99' Civic Si rebuild questions

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by Jixer615, Dec 25, 2007.

  1. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    Hey im rebuilding my b16 and i have some questions concerning the rebuild.

    first question, when reinstalling the crank mains, they are numbered with an arrow on each one. how where does number 1 main begin and which way should the arrow be facing?

    second question, is it neccessary to replace the crank main bolts with ARP ones if im turbocharging my civic?

    third question, im replacing everything in the top and bottom, do the valve guides need to be replaced as well? the engine has 100,000 miles on it.

    final question, which setup/company is the best setup for turbo-charging. I want pistons, crank, cams, rods, the whole thing.

    thank you for taking the time to read and answer these questions.
     
  2. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Check the FSM for that.. Gallery has them

    It wouldn't hurt. ARP makes nice stuff. I'd use their rod bolts and head studs as well.

    Thats up to you. If it were me, you might as well. It sounds like you're rebuilding everything from the ground up, so make sure the head is good as new as well. They are cheap, and fairly easy to do.

    Eagle rods seem to be the most economical way to go for forged rods, tho there are some that are better and more expensive. I am a fan of CP pistons. From what I have read, they expand the least compared to other brands, miminizing piston slap at a cold start.

    Leave the crank alone. The stock honda crank is good to almost unlimmited power. I've seen 600 hp builds on stock cranks.
     
  3. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    thanks, i cleaned and inspected my crank and its within specs with very little discoloring due to alittle wear and tear.
    im going to micropolish it and have the balance checked before i throw it in the block.
    Do you know where to get a bottom-end setup for the b16 with eagle rods and cp pistons? what compression ratio should i request. turbocharging should be around 8.8-9.1, or something like that right. looking to start boosting just as a daily driver around 8-10 lbs. anything else, i should do ECU tuning.

    The turbo kits on Ebay made by less-known companies for $500-1200 dollars, are those alright systems to use?
     
  4. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    You can order thoes parts from pretty much anywhere. I'd check with local tuner shops. I also know that big places such as summit racing sells it too.

    For 8-10 psi, the stock CR is fine. I'm running 8 psi on stock 10.6 to 1 CR with no problems. If you plan on going for more power in the future, it wouldn't be bad to lower it to 9:1.

    For tuning get bigger injectors along with something to tune the ecu. Chrome is a free program that is very popular. Get the ecu socketed and a basemap burned on. Then find a dyno tuner who knows Chrome like the back of their hand. I tuned with Hondata, which is costlier, but IMO the best way to go.

    STAY AWAY FROM EBAY KITS!!!
    They have poor fittment, the manifolds are prone to cracking, the turbo seals go bad in a few weeks, and I trust their wastegates about as much as I trust Hillary Clinton running the country.

    If you want a good bolt-on kit, look at Greddy. For more money but for a better product, Full Race and Peakboost makes some awesome stuff.
     
  5. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    what type of turbo are you running on your build?
     
  6. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    I am supercharged. I have the Jackson Racing kit
     
  7. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    how much does mircopolishing and balancing cost? I prolly sound alittle annoying but its my first build.
     
  8. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    I've never had that done so I can't answer. Your best bet is to call your local machine shop
     
  9. killercannible

    killercannible Senior Member

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    Ebay "KITS" are terrible, but parts can be used and save alot on a custom turbo setup. Downpipe, intercooler, piping and the turbo itself can all be sourced from ebay with great reliabilty and results. The manifold, wastegate, and blow off valve should be bought name brand. The reason the most of the ebay turbos blow their seals is because no one uses oil restrictor adapters on their turbos and the pressure blows out the seals. The ebay manifolds are junk tho, however obx makes a very sturdy ramhorn and top mount for a reasonable price but other then obx ebay manifolds are junk.
     
  10. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    only time you scrap a crankshaft is when the journals need to be heavily machined. balancing is important, micropolishing cuts down the life span of the crankshaft. Knife-edging...not good for DD street cars. Knife-edged cranks only last one season and tends to over-work your oil pump.
     
  11. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Me personally...im lazy when it comes to balancing rotating or reciprocating assemblies. I know the crank is balanced as well as the crankshaft pulley...that is good enough for me (mild NA build). I know for a fact this setup im building wont last very long if I spin it past 8k WHICH i will end up doing at the track to get mid 12's out of it. When it does infact go, I will have my machinist just build a b20 short for me with everything reconditioned as well as the short block hot tanked and honed. The old setup I had went 12.5 @ 106 mph (slicks) so I should see similiar results.
     
  12. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    im keeping the crank its in real good shape. i would send pics but i dont know how you guys do that.

    its hard to collect all your ideas and money and put down a plan of action for a build. i have everything cleaned laid out on tables down in my basement just begging to be put back together.


    what type of assembly lube is the best to use on a rebuild? i see alot of that red stuff but i also see the white luthium.

    cnc-motorsports.com, I've looked at their prices and what they have to offer. seems like a good place to buy the bottom half
     
  13. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    also is it a good idea to plastigauge the main crank journals to make sure its in spec.

    i had my engine hot tank dipped but it doesnt look like the engines i see on the web. their block is shiny silver, why doesnt it look like theirs?
     
  14. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    that website does not exist, but im was looking through autopartswarehouse.com for gasket kits.
     
  15. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    I use Clevite for all the bearings, and arp moly lube for the studs/bolts. Everything else should be coated with 5w30 motor oil (non synthetic).
     
  16. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    I buy from Majestic also, great to do businness with.
     
  17. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    yeah i really like that website you gave my blanco, i need new o-rings and gaskets and all i have to do is look up the part and get a part number and order it. thanks alot!
     
  18. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    on the block/head of a stock b16a2, where would your oil feed line come from to feed oil to the turbo?

    companies sell the adapter for the oil filter, and the cyl. head has a bolt next to the vtec solenoid that looks like a oil pressure line would go for the LS/vtec
     
  19. dtob

    dtob New Member

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    You can get one of those adaptor kits or just tee off the oil pressure sending unit on the rr of the block. I would personally tee off the sending unit because it is cheaper but to each his own.
     
  20. Jixer615

    Jixer615 New Member

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    ok, im now getting my crankshaft micropolished and checking the balance. if there's no machineing of any of the journals on the main and rod journals, do i just need stock bearing placed in both. The machinist said he would write down all the measurements of all journals.

    will i have to get different bearing or will stock be ok?

    and......give me a good setup for a complete head setup going for a 9.1:1 compression ratio going for boost.

    valves, valvesprings, camshafts, cam gears, retainers. etc.
     
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