B16A2 99' Civic Si rebuild questions

[Jixer615]

so with my stock crank, im fine with color coded bearings but im switching to eagle rods and je pistons so the colors on the rod bearings dont work?

am i going to have to just measure the rod jornals thickness without the bearing -(minus)the crank jornal from the crank to get the thickness of bearings i need.

is the supplier going to have many different sizes i can pick from to get the desired clearances?

 

[LS_VTEC]

so with my stock crank, im fine with color coded bearings but im switching to eagle rods and je pistons so the colors on the rod bearings dont work?

am i going to have to just measure the rod jornals thickness without the bearing -(minus)the crank jornal from the crank to get the thickness of bearings i need.

is the supplier going to have many different sizes i can pick from to get the desired clearances?

A lot of people reccommend using oem bearings but I always use ACL Race Bearings in all my setups. No color coding, just use plastigage to check for clearances between the journal and the bearing (rod caps). Cheap insurance for high rpm, haven't failed me yet.

 

[LS_VTEC]

oem bearings can be used, IF new. Never re-use bearings. I personally use ACL Race in all of my engine builds. Cheap insurance and no color coding. The clearances on the rod bearings can be run a little looser but never the opposite.

 

[LS_VTEC]

You have to get OEM Honda bearings from Honda; http://HondaAutomotiveParts.com

Here's what you do. Have the machinist measure your rods after he measures your rod journals. Subtract the journal measurement from the rod measurement and add your desired clearance. What you're left with is the thickness of the bearing you need. Use the chart I linked you to, that was made by a nationally well respected Honda builder, to find out the color code of the bearings you need. On HondaAutomotiveParts.com the bearings are listed from A to G, Blue is A and Red is G. This is the proper way to do it. If you're unable to do this, you should pay the machinist to do it for you.

You can use ACL Race bearings, but even the suppliers recommend against using them in street engines due to the increased clearance. Too wide a clearance is no better than too tight. Most professional builders prefer to stay in the middle-to-loose side of the OEM clearances. Towards the tighter side is good for reliability and towards the looser side is good for high reving race engines, so staying around the middle gives you best of both worlds. If you're going to be rebuilding your purpose built race engine on a regular basis, use one-size-fits-most bearings. If you want your engine to last more than 10-20k miles, build it correctly.

 

[Jixer615]

i really appreciate your time and help with my build. now i have a better understanding of the bearing for my engine.

The thrust washers only come in one size and thats for spec reasons, right?

 

[Jixer615]

alright, i got the crank back today and it looks great. no balancing was required, it was perfect. my journal size on the mains are around 55.9 mm and the rod journals are in spec with a beautiful mirror-like finish.

all i need now is to measure and get online and get the bearings.

blanco, would you go with JE pistons or CP pistons?
Eagle H-beam connecting rods should give me the power and relibility i need.

Would you go with a upgraded oil pump if this was your build?
an oil pressure gauge would be a wise decision to make too

 

[Jixer615]

i have not bought my rods and pistons yet.
mains's...........54.991
rod's.............44.983

these are just the measurements on the crank journals.

for power im looking to reach around 300-325 hp by the end of the build. im building it as a daily driver and just all out personal acommplishment.

anyone have any good builds with Brian Crower stage 2 camshafts?

fuel side: with the added turbo, to prevent detonation and complete destruction of my engine, i need to run more fuel to the engine.
to increase fuel to the engine, are bigger injectors, 1/2 fuel rail, and a fuel pressure regulator needed to make the right fuel/air ratio.

what size injectors would you recommend?
RC engineering?

AEM fuel products seem to be top-notch.

 

[Jixer615]

crank polished and ready to go in, and some other pics along with a good dry place to build your one of the kind racer.

 

[Jixer615]

when i go to buy main bearings, why do i have two different kinds like below for one top bearing for the block and the one for the main. the figures point to figure. 19 as the top bearings and figure. 20 as the bottom bearings. Im getting this info from

Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store

i need five top bearings and five bottom bearings from what it looks like. 1 black , 3 green, and 1 yellow.

how would i go about ordering the correct ones?





18436 019 5 BEARING A, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18437 019 5 BEARING A, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18438 019 5 BRG B, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18439 019 5 BRG B, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18440 019 5 BRG C, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18441 019 5 BRG C, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18442 019 5 BRG D, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18443 019 5 BRG D, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18444 019 5 BRG E, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18445 019 5 BRG E, MAIN (UPPER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18446 019 5 BEARING F, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18447 019 5 BEARING F, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18448 019 5 BEARING G, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18449 019 5 BEARING G, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18450 020 5 BEARING A, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18451 020 5 BEARING A, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18452 020 5 BRG B, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18453 020 5 BRG B, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18454 020 5 BRG C, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18455 020 5 BRG C, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18456 020 5 BRG D, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18457 020 5 BRG D, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18458 020 5 BRG E, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18459 020 5 BRG E, MAIN (LOWER) NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18460 020 5 BEARING F, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18461 020 5 BEARING F, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18462 020 5 BEARING G, MAIN NO COLOR 12.33 8.63 Qty:
18463 020 5 BEARING G, MAIN

 

[Jixer615]

alright, monday after work, ill let you tuners know just in case you have the same problem

 

[Jixer615]

oil catch cans, what's the deal with them and why do some tuners use them?

i called majestic but no one could help me with the topic i have above, so i sent an email with the same picture.

E-mail:hondaparts@majestichonda.com
Telephone: 1.800.341.4113
Fax: 401.762.5547

Majestic Honda
1300 Eddie Dowling Highway, Rte. 146
Lincoln, RI 02865

OPEN HOURS : WEEK DAYS 9 A.M - 4 P.M EASTERN STANDARD

 

[Taco15]

EDIT: ohh shit i completetly missed the second page. man i'm really out of it.lol


umm lets see. I'm bored at work and have been munchin on some trail mix for the last 4 hours.lol

here we go.

gsr cams with type R valve train on lncludin ght LMA's and ferrera valve and your choice of valve guides. OEM Honda is fine

type R cams with the above valvetrain.
Skunk2 turbo cams valvetrain minus the valves (they break instead of bend)
Crower cams with crower valvetrain
Toda cams '' ''' ''
M22 cams '' ''' ''

you name it they have it. Skunk2 would prolly be your best as far as aftermarket goes for the price. Crower might be the same price but i think they cost more. Toda racing is the shit but thats for real badass engines. You need to have a sick setup to get the full potential. If not then its not worth the price tag.



Skunk2 turbo cam with

 

[Jixer615]

GSR cams, real good condition. just missed them on ebay for $61.00.

 

[Jixer615]

how much power can the stock flywheel in the b16 handle?

if i get it resurfaced, with new clutch will it hold up to 300whp?

 

[Jixer615]

so the flywheel doesn't have a breaking limit or any amount of torque that will cause it to break apart other then rust and other factors?

 

[YBLEGAL]

oil catch cans, what's the deal with them and why do some tuners use them?

saves the life of your engine/keeps it from gunking up.

collects blow by gasses in your crankcase and valve cover and removes them from your oil while allowing the vacuum used to pull the gasses out to be filtered.

 

[Jixer615]

If i install stock GSR camshafts in a stock b16a2 head, will it be ok then to install B.C valve springs, B.C retainers and stainless steel valves or do i have to use stock valve springs?

will this setup be ok for turbo charging after a mild port and polish?

if your confidient enough to do the port and polish on your own, do you have to remove the valve guides or can they just stay in the head as long as you clean every up when finished?

For forced induction, i see people just porting out the exhaust side only on the head, are porting of both sides required or they just want to get the exhaust gases out quick only because of more pressure for spooling the turbo?

 

[YBLEGAL]

If i install stock GSR camshafts in a stock b16a2 head, will it be ok then to install B.C valve springs, B.C retainers and stainless steel valves or do i have to use stock valve springs?

will this setup be ok for turbo charging after a mild port and polish?

if your confidient enough to do the port and polish on your own, do you have to remove the valve guides or can they just stay in the head as long as you clean every up when finished?

For forced induction, i see people just porting out the exhaust side only on the head, are porting of both sides required or they just want to get the exhaust gases out quick only because of more pressure for spooling the turbo?

1. you can use all that stuff with OEM cams. no problem.

2. port and polish's compliment NA or boost nicely. regardless.

3. if you upgrade your valves to stainless steel, you have to upgrade to bronze valve guides anyway. honestly i wouldnt do it on your own unless you have a serdi machine on hand. you CAN fuck up a port job and make it flow worse. shit i wouldnt let a shop touch it either unless they've got a serdi.

4. why port one side? you've still got a bottle neck. common sense should tell you putting a larger head on a garden hose shoots the water with less pressure. so it's only worth it if you do both sides. you want the head to breath as well as possible.

 

[Jixer615]

why do i have to switch to bronze valve guides, does stainless steel have an effect on the orginal guides?

 

[YBLEGAL]

yes sir. stainless steel valves usually wear out stockers quickly. plus the bronze ones generate less friction.