B16A2 head build....(prepare for some long wind)

[Luis998]

Let me ask you guys, what is the reason for choosing a B18a/b block over a GSR block and going LSVTEC? My head is obviously a B16 and even I'm tempted to go to the dark side, get a B20 block and have my way with it...in a non-sexual way of course. What would be the advantage to this versus either sticking with my B16 block or going up to a GSR block? I know that displacement would be one advantage and horsepower would be the other. Please enlighten me as I am really trying to soak all of this in and understand it better. Thank you.

 

[Luis998]

Displacement and power are pretty much it. B18C1/5 blocks have an 87mm stroke where B18A/B and B20 blocks have an 89mm stroke. Aside from that, there's price to consider. Non-VTEC are just cheaper to buy than VTEC blocks.

I see (said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw) I don't know why the hell I'm having such an issue with this in considering to go with something else, Scott. I already have a freakin' almost complete B16 block with Eagle Rods and eh, now I'm not sure what I want to do.

On the way home from the gym I told myself that I would be a fool to sell this, then spend money on something else, where I almost have EVERYTHING I need for the bottom end build.

On the other side, power goals would be easier to achieve, but I would have to spend more money if I say, decided to go with the LSVTEC build. Heck, if I decided to go with a GSR block too.

The stroke does make a difference to me and the GSR stroke is more inviting than the other two. I'll find the article and post it here as to why it is that way for me.

 

[philyphreak2127]

He is runnin a jdm b16 head with a b20b block, stock b20 bottom end, short ram intake, aftermarket aluminum radiator, I would have to ask what brand valves but oversized valves, obx stage 2 cams (which is why I asked), skunk2 cam gears, arp head studs, xtd clutch, megan header, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust, he also repalced a ton of gaskets. I swear this kid doesn't care how much money he spends on this car. He bought the megan header to run til he can buy forged internals before he puts the t3/t4 turbo kit he has on. He refuses to run the turbo on the stock internals, and refuses to run the stock header til then too.

 

[Luis998]

Time to start making up your mind because you're starting to chase your tail.

I knoooowwww. So many choices, so much to learn about them all. I'm about to yank out my hair. haha! I really want to make sure that I am happy with what I end up with, Scott. Then again, I could probably drive a totally stock, MG Midget nowadays and end up happy with the "power" it puts out. haha (for the record, I do like MG's)

He is runnin a jdm b16 head with a b20b block, stock b20 bottom end, short ram intake, aftermarket aluminum radiator, I would have to ask what brand valves but oversized valves, obx stage 2 cams (which is why I asked), skunk2 cam gears, arp head studs, xtd clutch, megan header, high flow cat, and cat back exhaust, he also repalced a ton of gaskets. I swear this kid doesn't care how much money he spends on this car. He bought the megan header to run til he can buy forged internals before he puts the t3/t4 turbo kit he has on. He refuses to run the turbo on the stock internals, and refuses to run the stock header til then too.

Has he done anything else to the head besides the valves? <_< Please tell me he has...lie to me even. Why did he go with OBX cams if he doesn't care about the money he spends on it though? Tell me more. I'm curious to know if he did anything else to the head. God help me, but I would shoot myself in the face with a bazooka if I only did the cams, cam gears, valves, arp head studs and valves. It is quite the waste of money to buy a header "just for now" then go with a turbo set up later on. To each their own. I wish him the best.

 

[Luis998]

What you're seeing there, is a fool being parted from his money.






That's because you're over thinking it. Step back, take a deep breath, clear your mind, and then dive back in.

I had that some what figured out from your teachings, Yoda. As soon as I saw OBX...woo, I cringed.




Your guidance is doing a lot in allowing me to take a cleansing breath, step back, clear my mind, and realize what I really want. After learning so much in such a little time, I know that a)I still have a lot more to learn still, yet b) I'm more guided on what to do and what I want to do.

What I REALLY want right now is a second job so that I can continue my life and my build.

I just thought of something, Scott. At 6'5, you're quite a bit tall to be a "Yoda" of sorts. Yet calling you Chewie just doesn't seem right since all he does is snarl at people. Then again, I have seen you give the "Yeti greeting" to some of the stupidoids on here. Yes, I just made up a word. It's a synonym to dumbass.

 

[Luis998]

On a different note, I taught my dad something tonight. Since I picked up my B16 block, which is indeed a JDM block (all that it has stamped on it is B16A vs. the USDM B16A1,2,3 stamp) I taught him what the sleeves are and where they are located. He agreed with me very much in my wanting to replace them for a)peace of mind and b) to make the build a lot stronger and last longer. He also agreed that the money spent now will definitely justify itself later on when my engine, as he put it "doesn't blow up and take a shit on me later on." haha I love my dad. He ROCKS!

 

[philyphreak2127]

its more like a stubborn person. I told him not to go with OBX he was debating between those and skunk2 and decided with OBX cause of cost. but whatever he did the springs and reatiners, with the valves, cams, cam gears, and the head studs. I personally told him to go with skunk2. but yeah he doesn't think I know anything about cars cause I don't have a fully built motor in my car...so yeah mostly because I own 3 cars and have bills to pay also...so my money is spread thin. As for spending like $200 on the header only to replace it...yet again something I thought was a waste but that is his money I can only give him a suggestion I gave up on telling him what to do with his car. But hey if the cams fail they fail he can learn the hard way.

 

[Luis998]

its more like a stubborn person. I told him not to go with OBX he was debating between those and skunk2 and decided with OBX cause of cost. but whatever he did the springs and reatiners, with the valves, cams, cam gears, and the head studs. I personally told him to go with skunk2. but yeah he doesn't think I know anything about cars cause I don't have a fully built motor in my car...so yeah mostly because I own 3 cars and have bills to pay also...so my money is spread thin. As for spending like $200 on the header only to replace it...yet again something I thought was a waste but that is his money I can only give him a suggestion I gave up on telling him what to do with his car. But hey if the cams fail they fail he can learn the hard way.

Let him learn the hard way then if he wants to be so stubborn.

 

[Luis998]

When you "deck" the block, what does that mean? Milling the head helps lower compression, correct? I'm trying to learn all of the terms I read so any help with these definitions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Luis998]

Milling the head raises compression because it takes material off of the head gasket mating surface, which puts the combustion chambers closer to the pistons. Decking a block is the same thing.

Well don't I feel like a confused horses ass. Thanks for clearing that up, Scott. I had it all wrong. It's nice to be informed.

 

[LS_VTEC]

Doing it correct is the other half.

 

[Luis998]

Knowing is half the battle.

G.I. JOE!

Doing it correct is the other half.

Umm, I have nothing witty to say to that but the fact that you are correct, John.

 

[LS_VTEC]

lol... you could say that doing it right will "get you bitches". ;x

 

[Luis998]

lol... you could say that doing it right will "get you bitches". ;x

haha! Doing it right will also keep me from getting bitched out, though that doesn't sound half as fun as what you said.

 

[Luis998]

Would a block girdle be a good idea to add to ones build? If so, how come? Does it strengthen the block?

 

[K2e2vin]

If you plan on revving high, it'll help stabilize the block. I know ERL was selling a nice one(5-bolt), but don't know if they still are.

 

[Luis998]

If you plan on revving high, it'll help stabilize the block. I know ERL was selling a nice one(5-bolt), but don't know if they still are.

That makes sense to me. You know, it's going to take me quite a long time, more than I originally planned it seems (I gave myself a year to complete this build) but it will be worth it in the end with everything that I am learning and the peace of mind I will have when it is done.

What is ERL and where else could one look up girdles?

Thank you for the information, by the way.

 

[K2e2vin]

Erl Performance - PRODUCTS:

Scroll down to "5 point main girdle" Spoon had a girdle that was similar too(they call it a "Block Brease" or something like that).

As far as girdles in general, I wouldn't know where to look. But, all of Honda's new blocks(K-series IIRC) utilize a two-piece block where the lower block is a girdle. Also, D-series uses girdles too.

 

[Luis998]

Erl Performance - PRODUCTS:

Scroll down to "5 point main girdle"

As far as girdles in general, I wouldn't know where to look. But, all of Honda's new blocks(K-series) utilize a two-piece block where the lower block is a girdle. Also, D-series uses girdles too.

Thank you very much and HOLY COW! *grabs heart* THIS IS THE BIG ONE!

I would have NEVER guessed one would be that much. Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! I'm wondering if I would need one for my build at all. I KNOW I want sleeves for sure, but I'm not quite sure if a girdle would be quite worth it for either of my builds.

 

[K2e2vin]

Get a GSR/ITR girdle Also, I believe there's cheaper aftermarket girdles out there(3-point ones).

For the ERL, it shown as MSRP so I guess it would be best to just call them and ask how much it really is. It's a nice unit, but definitely not cheap.