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B16A2 Idle/Battery Problem.

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by joshb2006, Mar 25, 2011.

  1. joshb2006

    joshb2006 New Member

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    Hey guys,
    Im running into a bit of a bit of a, what seems like electrical problem.. Here's the beginning.
    Engine was Slipping like crazy(worn out flywheel), and then one day the battery died completely, so I took it into the garage.. took apart the tranny using the G3 Clutch change DIY Guide, which was amazing. Changed CLutch/Pressure Plate/Flywheel Resurfaced. Everything grips, engaged, etc properly.
    Now for the problem..

    The CEL is NOT on.
    The Batter light IS on.

    When the battery is fully charged, Battery light is still on. Disconnected Negative Cable, Car runs. Disconnected Positive Cable, Car runs. The car actually runs Brighter and more steady when the battery positive cable is not plugged in.
    Also, If I have the battery fully charged at night, when I wake up in the morning it is COMPLETELY dead, no juice at all. (No lights on when I leave the vehicle, no noises, nothing. And Ive tried 3 batteries, all which work in other vehicles.


    Also, since I changed the clutch(Rebolted tranny), car was running fine with the battery light for an hour or so, parked it fine, then it wouldnt turn over. Changed the Fuel Filter, and it turned over right away but now when it drives, but when no RPM just dies out right away, but I can turn it back over, it feels weak but it still turns.


    Checked the grounds(Both of them from Tranny to chassis and they seem fine).
    Any help/Suggestions/Any troubleshooting you may have me done would be greatly apprecaited.

    Thanks guys!!!!
    ~Josh
     
  2. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Get a new battery?

    Have you had the Alternator checked? I figure it ran better with it b/c the alternator was working hard to charge it.

    Main Relay going out?
     
  3. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Did you check the thermostat ground? This is one of the most important grounds. I had a similar problem (most of the same symptoms). I cleaned the t-stat ground with some sand paper and it was good to go. I dont know if that could make your batteries drain, but it might fix the no start problem.
     
  4. joshb2006

    joshb2006 New Member

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    Thanks so much for the replies guys, now I took off the little red thing to disable my chip for my ECU and the car starts/runs great now....

    BUT.

    I checked the thermostat ground, it seeems fine, sanded it down.. OK.

    BUT, when the battery light is still on but the battery doesnt seem to be draining and if im Driving my car and have my lights on, if I give it any RPM the ligths go out. But if I have my heater on full blast(Power-Wise) I can go up to near 3500 RPM before my lights turn out(Just headlights)... Is this a ground? Im so confused..
     
  5. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Have the alternator tested. I know you pulled the wires from the battery, but having it tested for real would still be a good idea.
     
  6. joshb2006

    joshb2006 New Member

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    Definetly going to have that tested, still curious as to why the headlights turn off though (Even when Positive wired to battery and Negative to the harness) the light still turns on when the RPMs are gained. I might try wiring the negative to the battery aswell to see if the problem persists tonight
     
  7. jr018

    jr018 New Member

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    x2 on having the alternator checked. Mine did something similar. Was charging 17 volts. Then killed battery. Replaced alt. Problem solved.
     
  8. joshb2006

    joshb2006 New Member

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    To follow up on this matter;

    Issue Resolved:

    Fix: Alternator was dead.

    The alternator Diode was leaking and pulling amps from the battery when the car was off.

    Symptoms: If the lights get brighter as you rev the engine, it means the alternator is producing some current, but may not be producing enough at idle to keep the battery properly charged
     
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