b16a2 intake manifold on b16a?

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bakerderek0

Up a Creek...
Heres my issue: when I start the car my idle is between 1000 and 1500 rpms. After a minute or two of idling at a constant speed, it starts to dip and come back up slowly. This is all before it reaches full engine temp. Once I do drive the car it drives fine unless I hit vtec when driving, then it stalls out as soon as I push the clutch at a stop sign or red light. I've cleaned my IACV and tested for the click at 12 volts - fine. Checked my TPS voltage - fine. Heres my diagnosis problems: I don't have a timing belt cover to check my ignition timing and theres no pointer on the crankcase that I know of. Also, my LMA's are bad so I'm having a hard time setting the timing by ear, all I can here is a slower or faster rpm when moving the distributor. Diagnosis problem #2: This is a B16 motor, but I think it has a B16A2 intake manifold because there is a vacuum line on top of the manifold and I have yet to find a b16a1 intake manifold with a vacuum line on top of it. My canister looks different than a B16A2's. So I'm having issues checking my vacuum lines. See picture below for a look at the vacuum lines coming off the intake manifold. Also, this throttle body has no FITV. I have a helms for a 00 civic si, eg helms and gsr hlems, All the vacuum setups are different. Do people usually have to swap their canister when they put a b16a2 into an eg? I'm not worried about emissions either, so if there is an easy fix to eliminate vac lines I'm up for it.
Thanks for any help, I made sure to read and do countless searches before I asked for help.
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab266/bakerderek0/jgvj015.jpg
 
UPDATE: I started to wonder if I even had a B16a head, So I checked it and the year model is 99 PR3-4. My engine is stamped B16A. So I don't know what the hell was done on this build. Its possible I have a B16A2 head and intake manifold on a B16A block. or is it? I may have a 96-00 Civic Vti setup here, thats the only way this head and block would be together.
 
You don't need to keep the canister that's for emissions use only. I eliminate them on my swaps then again I always use oil catch can but even if you don't use catch can you can still remove it and plug the ends.

Seems like you may have a Vacuum leak issue re adjust your idle screw on your TB and see if that helps out.

Good luck.
 
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