b17 turbo

[92civicb18b1]

Originally posted by hondarin+May 9 2005, 11:41 PM-->

pissedoffsol

@Apr 12 2005, 02:16 PM
you can boost 300-ish on stock sleeves, about 250 on stock pistsons/rods safely on most b-series motors in good shape and TUNED PROPERLY with an electronic fuel management unit like hondata/uberdata/etc

however, you're never going to com close to 300 on 7 psi. lol

i hit 290-ish on 11 psi on a sleeved 2.0 gsr motor with a t67 turbo.

[post=486220]Quoted post[/post]​

if you hit only 290 on a sleeved 2.0gsr with a t67 pushin 11 psi, then, i would imagine that you were running lower compression pistons; but why sleeve it if you're gonna run lower compression pistons? were the pistons a lower cr? or, possibly whoever built your engine didn't do a very good job (and no offense if it was you). also, what elevation are you at?

i refer you to hondata's dyno page: http://www.hondata.com/dynocharts.html

i dunno, maybe these cars are special cases.

also, you're always saying that head work "isn't necessary," but when you get right down to it, a good PnP is always gonna help you breathe better.

and lastly, everybody always suggests full 3" exhaust, and at 250 or even 300hp, you don't need 3" exhaust. i'm sure a 2.75" or maybe even 2.5" exhaust at those power levels would have far greater exhaust velocity (in a mandrel bent system, of course. if you're using crush bending, then i suppose 3" would be needed.) if you're exhaust is too big, you will lose power, both in the bottom end and top end.

finally, i don't mean to offend you by any of my comments, just my opinions based on my education thus far in my mechanical engineering degree, and from what i've read.

[post=497233]Quoted post[/post]​

his shit was fucked...and he was lookign for more than 300 hp i think

sleeving is added protection, anything over 300 I would defenitly sleeve my motor.

Lower CR makes it easier to tune....Sleeves make it stronger

PnP will always help...but you can skip it with a vtec head since they flow nicely and will still make some nice power...of course there's more to be had with a PnP though...it just isn't neccasary. On an LS I would always suggest a PnP due to the crappy head.

On a turbo motor, the exhaust NEEDS to breathe as much as possible. the bigger the better...3" is ideal for most setups. 2.5" is restrictive. I was running open DP, then finally put my 2.5" exhuast on and well there was defenitly a huge loss in power.

2.5" DP and exhaust to 3" will make a very noticeable gain as well as quicker spool times.

 

[posol]

werd.. i was going for 400-ish on pump gas, with a cat, daily driven.

but my motor was a POS and could hold an oil, so i parted the whole thing out. i didn't assemble it. i bought it assembled from some homo in cali. that was my mistake. i tried to save a few bucks, and got fucked in the ass.

 

[hondarin]

Originally posted by 92civicb18b1+May 10 2005, 07:24 AM-->

Originally posted by hondarin@May 9 2005, 11:41 PM
pissedoffsol

@Apr 12 2005, 02:16 PM
you can boost 300-ish on stock sleeves, about 250 on stock pistsons/rods safely on most b-series motors in good shape and TUNED PROPERLY with an electronic fuel management unit like hondata/uberdata/etc

however, you're never going to com close to 300 on 7 psi.  lol

i hit 290-ish on 11 psi on a sleeved 2.0 gsr motor with a t67 turbo.

[post=486220]Quoted post[/post]​

if you hit only 290 on a sleeved 2.0gsr with a t67 pushin 11 psi, then, i would imagine that you were running lower compression pistons; but why sleeve it if you're gonna run lower compression pistons? were the pistons a lower cr? or, possibly whoever built your engine didn't do a very good job (and no offense if it was you). also, what elevation are you at?

i refer you to hondata's dyno page: http://www.hondata.com/dynocharts.html

i dunno, maybe these cars are special cases.

also, you're always saying that head work "isn't necessary," but when you get right down to it, a good PnP is always gonna help you breathe better.

and lastly, everybody always suggests full 3" exhaust, and at 250 or even 300hp, you don't need 3" exhaust. i'm sure a 2.75" or maybe even 2.5" exhaust at those power levels would have far greater exhaust velocity (in a mandrel bent system, of course. if you're using crush bending, then i suppose 3" would be needed.) if you're exhaust is too big, you will lose power, both in the bottom end and top end.

finally, i don't mean to offend you by any of my comments, just my opinions based on my education thus far in my mechanical engineering degree, and from what i've read.

[post=497233]Quoted post[/post]​

his shit was fucked...and he was lookign for more than 300 hp i think

sleeving is added protection, anything over 300 I would defenitly sleeve my motor.

Lower CR makes it easier to tune....Sleeves make it stronger

PnP will always help...but you can skip it with a vtec head since they flow nicely and will still make some nice power...of course there's more to be had with a PnP though...it just isn't neccasary. On an LS I would always suggest a PnP due to the crappy head.

On a turbo motor, the exhaust NEEDS to breathe as much as possible. the bigger the better...3" is ideal for most setups. 2.5" is restrictive. I was running open DP, then finally put my 2.5" exhuast on and well there was defenitly a huge loss in power.

2.5" DP and exhaust to 3" will make a very noticeable gain as well as quicker spool times.

[post=497327]Quoted post[/post]​

alright, but you can't compare any type of open dp or header for that matter to any kind of full exhaust system. the reason an open dp makes so much more power has little to do with the size; it's just the fact that the exhaust only has to travel like 2 feet before its released to the atmosphere. and also, just out of curiousity, were you using crush bends or mandrel bends? lastly, i wouldn't so much say that turbo exhaust needs to breathe as much as POSSIBLE, i would say that it needs to be able to breathe as much as the turbo can. and, oh yeah, stepped exhaust systems are a smart idea, and i'm sure if you did the math, you could figure out almost exactly how long to make each section in order to have the best flow possible. by not going directly to the largest pipe possible, each exhaust pulse will create a vaccuum pulling the next pulse out the pipe quicker.

 

[FFCiv]

who says 500 on stock sleeves is bad?

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=40725.0

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=40043.0

 

[arroshiz]

t25 mitsubishi turbo? good choice or no...with either 10.0:1 or 9.0:1 compression....help

 

[arroshiz]

good idea or not
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2926&

 

[posol]

holy fuck thats a rip off!!!! its not even sleeved.

basically, they are putting 300 rods and 400 pistons in it and assembeling it for 1899 + shipping tiwce cuz they want your core. lol

shit, i'll do that for you for 1700

if you're looking at geeting a built block... get one thats sleeved.
benson, goldeneagle, rsmachine, darton, rlz, etc...

that will cost you about 1000... add pistons and rods, and you're at about the same price. bearings are like acl 90 bucks.
hot tanking is included.

 

[arroshiz]

well shit