b18 turbo rebuild

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i have a 93 teg with the b18 and i was going to rebuild it but i also want to turbo it sumday. what would be the basic (cheapest) rout to rebuild the engine to handle lets say 20psi boost? and also do they make a turbo rebuild kit? is it possible to do this bottom end rebuild for under 1000?
 
not 20 psi for 1000, it will cost you 900 just to get the block sleeved to handle the boost. then you have to add pistons and rods, bearings rings, seals, etc.etc. Gonna cost alot more than 1000
 
i didnt know if a good block guard would do. well what can i do to the bottom end for 1000? high compression mayb? i was just using a turbo for cheep power. i just want a quick everyday driver eather way
 
A block guard helps for high RPMs and constant abuse so that the cylinders don't wobble, causing a crack or shifting the headgasket and causing a headgasket failure, they are great for all motor cars and even low boost applications,
for 1000 you could go 1 of 2 ways, you could rebuild the stock bottom end with OEM bearings, new water pump, ARP rod bolts, p30 (b16) pistons and then get a b16 head and l/s vtec kit.
Or you could keep the l/s head and do this:
https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/building-ls-all-motor-monster-31401/
I had this exact setup before going l/s vtec and had 162 whp with the stock manifold and throttle body just port matched, and it cost me just under 1000 bucks
 
so ok..say i did the ls monster. i could get stock b16 pistons and they will work in my block with no mods? they will work with stock rings and rods?
 
now that would give me higher compresion then stock right? what would be a better rout to go..ls/vtec or all motor? im ordering that rebuild kit off ebay with the p30 pistons 2nite
 
Yes these pistons will raise your compression ratio, as for what you do next is up to you, you can either put new/better cams in your engine or you can go with the b16 head, remeber that you are probably going to want to buy new bearings for the engine, maybe a new oil pump, definately a water pump and stuff, but cams are not cheap, so with a 1000 budget it's probably going to be a VTEC head or get cams and prolly a new manifold. remember if you get the vtec head you will need a complete head with intake, distributor and stuff, such as this
eBay Motors: B16 JDM COMPLETE HEAD DOHC VTEC B16A B16B LS/VTEC (item 200137668244 end time Aug-08-07 11:09:41 PDT)
and an ls vtec kit such as this:
eBay Motors: Golden Eagle VTEC Full Conversion Kit 81.0MM Gasket (item 290128791536 end time Aug-12-07 22:25:55 PDT)
 
ok sweet. now would i need arp head studs with a vtec head swap? i think thats the rout im going cause its alot cheeper then i thought. now if i got the head decked alittle would that still help me?
 
You don't need arp studs, but I would recommend them, get them for b18c1/b18c5 engine.
Decking is always a good Idea, but if you are tight on a budget I would't do it unless it needs it.
Now with that particular head that I showed you, it is obd0, so you would have to do 2 things, 1 re-wire the distributor and 2 swap the injectors with your current injectors, there are writeups on how to rewire the dizzy, and the reason for the injectors is because they are not the correct ones to use for obd1, so you just swap your old ones in.
The last thing I forgot all about it is that you are going to need an ECU to run the vtec head, p30 obd1 is what youa re going to want to look for, OR pr3 obd1
you will have to run a couple wires also for the vtec head, but it is just 3 wires and a ground and that is also in the refrence section.
Any other questions feel free to ask
 
umm, no, cams will not get you as much of a gain as the ls/vtec,
it would be close if you got cams and did a port and polish and got an aftermarket intake manifold such as this:
eBay Motors: SKUNK 2 Intake Manifold -INTEGRA LS - HONDA CRV B18 B20 (item 260000048661 end time Sep-03-07 17:21:45 PDT)
and a trottle body such as this:
eBay Motors: CIVIC INTEGRA PRELUDE ACCORD 68MM SKUNK2 THROTTLE BODY (item 260144699217 end time Aug-05-07 21:13:46 PDT)
for cams you would have to ask around, but I would reccomend the crower 403s they are tested and proven, just remember that you will need springs and retainers so you dn't float a valve and wreck the whole engine.
 
integra GSR specificly 1995 integra GSR
The CRX is an ls/vtec with the p30 pistons, with a b16 head and gsr cams, also a gsr ecu, slightly ported and polished head and port matched oem intake manifold and throttle body, also it has a few other honda parts, it put down 204whp with a stock ecu and full exhaust, it runs better with just the open headers at the track.
 
No, compression would be too high to boost, you will be running around 11.2:1, you are going to have to run 92 octane fuel also if you want to advance the timing a little.
if you did the ls/vtec setup and left the pistons alone you would be able to run around 8 psi with a tuned ECU
 
cams, springs and retainers, aftermarket intake and throttle body, A good tune (aftermarket ecu or chipped) you could scrap the b18 block for a b20 to increase displacement, there are all sorts of options, you could sleeve the stock b18 and then run boost. It's up to you, but Vtec is really the way to go either way.
 
sleeve the block with the 11.2.1? would i have to go back to stock pistons for boost then? also what is shot peened mean when it comes to ls rods?
 
you could lower the compression if you wanted or just run lower boost (10psi or so)
Shot peening is when yu take small bits of steel shot and shoot it at the rods sort of like if you were sandblasting, it relieves the stress that is created during the creatn of the rod and evens it out and re-stressesit internally, making it harder and more resistant to cracking/breaking. Here is a short artical that explains the specifics of it.
Metal Improvement Company - Shot Peening
 
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