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B18A1 build q.

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by piggy96, Nov 16, 2006.

  1. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    hey, new guy to forum but not too new to hondas.

    heres the story building a b18a1 to drop in a EG6 hatch, aiming for mid 12s. possible?...

    im tearing the block down, using arias 8.8:1 forged pistons, still up in the air on rods, leaving the crank. block is getting line-bored (+.02) and decked (to achieve tru 90deg b/w cylinder to deck) was thinking a block saver but was reading they can cause cooling issues...t/f?

    heads are gonna be refreshed w/ a turbo cam, not sure wat make tho, same w/ springs and valves...

    then bosting to 16 psi or more... test and tune when the time comes...

    any suggestion and or criticism would be great thanks
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2006
  2. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    I'm a fan of sticking to AT LEAST 9:1 compression followed by less boost. Running higher compression and less boost gives you the opportunity to blow things up if you don't tune properly (better get ignition timing mastered). However... say you ran 10:1 compression and 10 psi. You'd have more torque, quicker throttle response, and a faster spool undoubtedly. And you just might make more power than 8.8:1 and 16 psi. I'm not recommending that's exactly what you should do, but you might want to think about 9.5:1 compression pistons.
     
  3. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    well my goal is probly around 350 whp, would that be attainable with higher comp, and less boost?

    also would stock crank take this abuse?
     
  4. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    absolutely. its not going to hurt the crank anymore than lower compression and more boost.

    think about it this way. with higher compression, you're making more hp gain / lb of boost since we all know that boost is not relative.
     
  5. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    ya i see wat u mean, i was originally thinking about 8.8:1 w/ 20-25 psi, so if i go around 9.2:1 and lower the boost to about 14-16psi it shud be close hp wise, but maybe more torque w/ the 9.2:1 pistons?
     
  6. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    baaazing. more torque, quicker throttle response, etc etc. now you'll want to make sure you tune the fuck out of it. go conservative on your timing. and remember. detonation is BAD.
     
  7. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    oh i know the horror stories about detonation, thats the first thing im doing once i get everything running, gonna have everything completley de-tuned and slowly build up from there until i feel comfortable with the way its running.... about those stock cranks, i hear they are almost bullet-proof, will it handle what i want to throw at it, where do i draw the line and spluge on the better crank?
     
  8. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    8.8 - 9.2 is not gonna make that big of a difference to tell the truth. it might be a 1-2psi difference to obtain the same horsepower.

    Id go with your original plan. leave it at 8.8 (easier to tune) and then just know your goal, buy your turbo accordingly.
     
  9. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    mmmm yeaaa you're right. that little difference won't do that much. I was caught up in the difference between 8.8 and say... 10:1 pistons with an MLS gasket to drop the C/R down a bit.
     
  10. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    I was referring to a thicker Cometic head gasket
     
  11. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    which turbo to go w/ is still up in the air, ive seen t3/t4 hybids thats can spool to 25psi, but ithink the lag would really bad as thats qutie a bit for that turbo, wat wud u guys suggest t4 or even bigger?
     
  12. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    it's not necessarily a specific amount of boost. it's a total amount of horsepower the turbo can support at maximum efficiency. i wouldn't go T4, especially if spool times were an issue. With a .50 trim T3/T04e, I shouldn't have any trouble spooling it, especially with full valvetrain and cams. And if it becomes a problem, there's always the method of A) small shot of nitrous to spool it up as well as provide cooling; and B) pulling massive amounts of timing, burning up fuel inside the exhaust manifold and spooling it up quick. in that case, a good good intercooler setup is quite necessary. but if you do a piping setup as short as possible and with .25 larger pipe on the cold side than on the hot side, that reduces spool times as well.
     
  13. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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  14. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    you could get lucky, but those look like in house assembled turbos, and i dont recognize the company. i say buyer beware.
     
  15. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    thats wat i thought myself, but wat about using a turbo w/ a 57 trim?

    (.50 A/R comp, .63 turbine)
     
  16. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    stay away from those cheap turbos

    I would order from atpturbo.com or from cheapturbo.com

    both are fair priced reputable sellers.
     
  17. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    ive found that full-race has some turbos at really competitive prices (for brand new, off the shelf turbos). might wanna check them out too.
     
  18. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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    thanks for the sites, probly goin w/ T3/T4, 50 trim, .63 A/R , would that get me to about 400whp?
     
  19. piggy96

    piggy96 New Member

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  20. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    60 trim is a bit big. Id stay with the 50.
     
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