My swap is complete. '90 B18A1 in my 89 civic dx. Finally i got the engine to run on its own.....had to replace the main relay. BUT, its idling way to high...... about 2100 rpms. I've hooked all the vacuum hoses as displayed on the integra's diagram under the hood and the motor sounds good. I havent checked the timing yet. What exactly is the little diaphram thing on the throttle body for? It connects to the throttle linkage. Any help?
B18A1 swap
- Thread starter leake_da
- Start date
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VTECin5th
Administrator
congrats on the getting it running part.
What part are you talking about?
On the throttle body itself......theres a diaphram looking thing that bolts to the top of the throttle body and connects to the same mechanism the throttle cables connect to. It looks very similar to the Air Boost Valve on the intake. But i dont know if because its connected to my linkage it might be keeping my butterfly from completely closing.
cycloneb18c3
Senior Member
I belive its called a Dashpot valve. I dont know what it is, but on my swap(B16 in to 91 integra) it isnt hooked up.(it was on stock motor(b18a1), and we used stock throttle body(stupid I know) My car idles fine. did u check the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body? turning it in lowers the idle, turning it out raises the idle. If that doesnt help you the throttle body gasket may be bad, and air is leaking past it causing it to idle high, and hopefully it isnt, but it could be the intake manifold gasket.
brian11to1
Senior Member
the high idle could be cause of hte TPS wires... did you switch them? vacuum leak... uhm... vac. hoses?
Yeah i checked the idle screw......didnt affect it. So it might be my throttle body gasket.....i didnt change it. All my other gaskets are brand new.....so i hope they are alright. And yesi switched the TPS wires when i had the ZC in it. Ill check it out, thanks.
brian11to1
Senior Member
uhm, make sure the intake mani isnt leaking. vac. lines man.
BLOWBYUREX
Member
i did same swap, and i didnt switch wires on TPS, what do u have to do exactly, cause car runs ok idle a little bouncy, only intermittent, and throwing MAP?TPS?IAC codes, sorry to thread jack just find this interesting to my situation, thanks
The car runs ok.....only code 1- O2 sensor and code 6- Temperture sending unit(because i put in aftermarket gauge). It just idles at about 2100 rpm and i cant figure out where the other end of the hose to the dashpot valve goes to. Im just about ready to disconnect it from the throttle linkage. Somebody help!!!
All hoses are good.....checked with a vacuum pump. Everything is connected as shown on the diagram from the Integra....I even took the map and purge solenoid unit from the integra and hooked it up. I replaced the throttle body gasket, so all gaskets are brand new. Should i try unhooking some lines from intake and see if the idle drops? Also theres the hose underneath the intake directly below the pcv valve, it goes to the black box on the block. Well my hose was shot.......but i kinda patched it up by connecting some other hoses together......maybe its leaking air or vacuum? I thought it was just kind of a bypass from the pcv and not even connected into the intake.......let me know what u think.
cycloneb18c3
Senior Member
When you pull vacuum lines off it should increase the idle speed. Id replace that hose that you "patched" with a new one just to be sure it doesnt leak.
other then a vacuum leak the only other thing I can think of is timing could be off a little bit, the tps wires, or something with the ECU possibly. You need a temperature sender hooked up to the ECU, because it tells it when the car is warmed up and not. I know when I first fire my car up in the morning when its colder the car will idle upwards of about 2000 until it warms up, then it will drop down to normal right below 1000.
other then a vacuum leak the only other thing I can think of is timing could be off a little bit, the tps wires, or something with the ECU possibly. You need a temperature sender hooked up to the ECU, because it tells it when the car is warmed up and not. I know when I first fire my car up in the morning when its colder the car will idle upwards of about 2000 until it warms up, then it will drop down to normal right below 1000.
Ok.....i put a temp sensor on the empty plug, got rid of code 6......but i have nowhere to plug it into b/c i had to rethread the original hole in the head to match the aftermarket gauge fittings. With the sensor just hooked up the car now idles at 3000 rpm instead of 2100. So do u think that it might be the problem? I still havent fixed the patched hose below the pcv valve......does anybody know where i can get a new one at?or should i just make one? Any ideas on how to get the temp sensor into some antifreeze to get a reading to my ecu?
UPDATE
I replaced the patched hose last night and put everything back together......it brought the idle down to 1500 RPMs. Now i think i just got to check the timing. Any body got ideas about my coolant temp sensor?....I was thinking put a "T" off my heater hose with some kind of brass block with a threaded hole in it to put my sensor in........kind of guetto but if should work.
I replaced the patched hose last night and put everything back together......it brought the idle down to 1500 RPMs. Now i think i just got to check the timing. Any body got ideas about my coolant temp sensor?....I was thinking put a "T" off my heater hose with some kind of brass block with a threaded hole in it to put my sensor in........kind of guetto but if should work.
phat87mazdarx7
New Member
I have the b18a1 in my crx ans its also doing the same thing but not cel(check engine lights)
. I know its in the vacuum lines bc if you pull off a few it drops the idle down to normal but it will pulse(between 700rpm and about 13or14 hundred rpms) , I know its a DashPot Because I have the vac. diagrams printed off of alldata for the integra. on the diagram it goes from the dashpot to what looks like a check valve then to the intake snorkel(dont remember where mines are all hoked up but they are wrong). On the Rx7's I know the dash pot is to limit the throttle to a smoother motion, so if you smack the gas it has a secondary butterfly that is vac powered to smooth it all out. But the hondas only have one butterfly. I am curious if on of the solenoids(on the firewall) close off after the car warms up, for like a accellerated warm up(mazda does it).if you eleminate the dashpot i think it will still run fine but the idle will just get lumpy. Im going to the junkyard tomorrow morning to see whats up with this and how is it done in the teg. There are 2 vac solenoids on the teg in my diagram and both are fed off the back side of the intake plenum(fat part all the runners go into, closest to the firewall).one is a purge cut-off(go to a pair of steel tubes and to the charcol can) and the other is pressure regulator cut off(goes to the same set of steel lines then to the fuel pressure reg.). on the same solenoid rack you have the map sensor and form what i can see in the picture it go from the map to that steel line set to the a fitting on the front side of the throttle body(pass. side of car). my guess if you want to get rid of the charcoal can you just need to plug the lines and the solenoid,not sure if it will pop the cel on though(help simplify the vac lines).
also the boost valve goes to the intake snorkel next to the line from the dashhpot
I wish I had a scanner to just pop this diagram online for ya, I tried to take a picture of it but cant find my batteries, Ill try to do it tomorrow. hope that helps, and I will post up what i figure out,, tomorrow. I will fix the idle!!! LOL
. I know its in the vacuum lines bc if you pull off a few it drops the idle down to normal but it will pulse(between 700rpm and about 13or14 hundred rpms) , I know its a DashPot Because I have the vac. diagrams printed off of alldata for the integra. on the diagram it goes from the dashpot to what looks like a check valve then to the intake snorkel(dont remember where mines are all hoked up but they are wrong). On the Rx7's I know the dash pot is to limit the throttle to a smoother motion, so if you smack the gas it has a secondary butterfly that is vac powered to smooth it all out. But the hondas only have one butterfly. I am curious if on of the solenoids(on the firewall) close off after the car warms up, for like a accellerated warm up(mazda does it).if you eleminate the dashpot i think it will still run fine but the idle will just get lumpy. Im going to the junkyard tomorrow morning to see whats up with this and how is it done in the teg. There are 2 vac solenoids on the teg in my diagram and both are fed off the back side of the intake plenum(fat part all the runners go into, closest to the firewall).one is a purge cut-off(go to a pair of steel tubes and to the charcol can) and the other is pressure regulator cut off(goes to the same set of steel lines then to the fuel pressure reg.). on the same solenoid rack you have the map sensor and form what i can see in the picture it go from the map to that steel line set to the a fitting on the front side of the throttle body(pass. side of car). my guess if you want to get rid of the charcoal can you just need to plug the lines and the solenoid,not sure if it will pop the cel on though(help simplify the vac lines).
also the boost valve goes to the intake snorkel next to the line from the dashhpot
I wish I had a scanner to just pop this diagram online for ya, I tried to take a picture of it but cant find my batteries, Ill try to do it tomorrow. hope that helps, and I will post up what i figure out,, tomorrow. I will fix the idle!!! LOL
drummingpariah
Author of the Madness Man
I'm curious as to whether you ended up sorting this out. I think I'm running into the same problem.
phat87mazdarx7
New Member
I fixed mine, try and explain to me what yours is doing and I can probably help you...
drummingpariah
Author of the Madness Man
My ecu (pr4) is still giving me code 05, which is map sensor, which most likely means my vac lines are still wrong. I have a nice icle, and it runs well, but I'd really like to have it "right". I know this is a pretty common swap, but it doesn't seem like anybody's actually figured it out. A picture of how somebody's vac lines are properly hooked up would be the best.
phat87mazdarx7
New Member
what car and what engine? and the map should just go onto the plenum somewhere(behind the tb) just get a peice of hose and hook it to the one vacuum line at a time and blow threw it, and feel around the tb inside then open the tb and see if you can hear the hiss inside(once you found the hiss your good) I think i have a integra vacuum chart on my laptop,I'll see if I can find it. then I'll post it up
got it here you go!!!!
if you cant see it that great pm me your email and I will email it to you instead...
got it here you go!!!!
if you cant see it that great pm me your email and I will email it to you instead...
phat87mazdarx7
New Member
oh yeah, I wan my fuel press. line sraight to the manifold, my boost sensor is on the intake pipe and the purge can is on one of the nipples near the tb
drummingpariah
Author of the Madness Man
Awesome, that helps so much. I've been trying to find that diagram so I could work it out myself for so long it's not even funny. I'm running a b18a1 in my 1991 CRX Si with the PR4 ecu from the same integra as the b18a1 and the CRX Si MAP sensor (the b18 one didn't mate with the CRX wiring harness, so I stuck with the CRX one). Now that I think about it, that MAP sensor could be the source of all these problems. Maybe it's a PGMFI issue, and I just need to load up a different BIN. Hmmmm, I'll go through this one more time and if I think I've got it right I'll throw a pic up here of what I've got. Thanks for the help.
