b18a1 topps out at 4000 rpm... ect

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masterfulmreric

New Member
i have an EF with a b18a1 swap in it and when i start the car it idles at 2000 and it tops out at 4000 rpm when floored then sputters then when i check the ecu code i get 4 quick flashes followed by 5 quick flashes then one long one then another long one then 4 quick then one more long one then 6 quick flashes. how do i solve these problems?:confused:
 
Check the distributor and fuel injector wiring. Check the resister box. Check your map sensor. I don't know about the code 25
 
start by fixing the first code which is 4 for the crank sensor - code 4 is causing it to go into limp mode (which is why it won't rev up) and at that point, the ECU is just throwing out codes as it tries to compensate - most of the following are probably false codes - code 4 usually means that you have a bad distributor or you have a problem with the distributor wiring, namely the orange and thin white wires - you need to check the distributor wiring and possibly try a different distributor, then rest the ECU and see if you still have codes - get rid of the code 4 and the others will more than likely go away

code 5 is problem in the mechanical portion of the MAP sensor and usually indicates a vacuum leak, possibly disconnected or broken hose between throttle body and MAP sensor
 
well thanks jlicrx ill go check that out i think its the wiring because i just got this distributor a week ago. ill get back to you later on today to tell you how it went.
 
ok that solution worked for the code 4 and now i can rev it all the way to redline but it is still idleing at 2000 rpm and i adjusted the idle screw all the way down and it still is really high.
 
Check for a vacuum leak. Take some carb cleaner and spray it around the throttle body, vacuum lines, and intake manifold gasket. If the motor bogs or runs differantly when you spray a spot than you found the leak. If you don't find a vacuum leak than check your fitv and eacv.
 
ok that solution worked for the code 4 and now i can rev it all the way to redline but it is still idleing at 2000 rpm and i adjusted the idle screw all the way down and it still is really high.

I had the same problem before turned out my TPS (throttle position sensor) was out of adjustment and it made the computer think it was at 2ooo rpm but it should have been at idle, I also had completely closed the idle screw thinking it would go down but it did nothing... So I would check that an there is a write up on here somewhere on how to adjust it.
 
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