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B18a1

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by rickabob, Apr 14, 2010.

  1. rickabob

    rickabob New Member

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    I am whippin a 1990 Integra RS, with a B16A S1 tranny.. I have another motor sittin, waitin on a good rebuild
    I'm wantin to keep it N/A and possibly non-VTEC, but I am wantin to get as much power as i can, but keep the motor as reliable as possible
    .... so any suggestions?:confused:
     
  2. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Look at my build thread. Im building a reliable/Econo/ Mild DD build.
     
  3. rickabob

    rickabob New Member

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    Nice!

    very nice!! about how much did all of that cost ya?!
    what kind of piston could i go with to try and squeeze out a lil more compression?!
    ... sorry i got so many questions, im kinda new to the Honda seen
     
  4. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    I got everything pretty cheap. and you can too if you look for em.

    arp rod bolts $40

    Nippon Pistons and rings $100 (you can get them on Ebay for $150 or $250 with a complete gasket kit)

    Nippon gasket set $100.

    Crower 403's $200

    Weapon R cam gears $40

    Block bored and honed to match each piston, decked, crank LIGHTLY polished, Piston rings cut, Jet washed and media blasted for $160.

    So about 700 total.

    I already had the ported head.

    You can use P30 pistons to get about a 11.5:1 with 82mm pistons. or JDM ITRs

    You can do PCT/CTR pistons but that will get you a 12:1-12.5:1 compression and the pistons will stick out the block. Not to mention shitty Piston to valve clearance.
     
  5. rickabob

    rickabob New Member

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    Right on, "way" cheaper than i thought it would be.
     
  6. rickabob

    rickabob New Member

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    ?!?!


    i thought P30's were 81mm?? but correct me if im wrong
     
  7. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    if you want a high horsepower NA engine i suggest je pistons in like a 11:1 maybe as high as a 13:1 depending on the bore. get pistons with teflon coating on the skirts and get double oiler wrist pins with them. also get the rings set too from je. i hear that K-1 is making good connecting rods too so look at those. this is just where i would start. you will need your deck height and all the machine shop info for custom ordered pistons so talk to engine machine shops. beware, many machine shops will not want to do this work because its high performance. it'll cost you. expect as much as $4000.00 for you bottom end alone to be done. and thats a minimum price
     
  8. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Get nippon Pistons on ebay. You can get them in 81mm and 82mm.

    I would go 1mm over bore to clean up the walls. and they fit on stock rods.

    With JE forged pistons you will need forged rods because forged rods dont fit cast pistons. 400 for pistons, 4-500 for rods. you dont need Forged rods for a Mild N/A build.

    The weakest link in the stock rods is the rod bolts. They use the same rod bolts as D series.
     
  9. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    the je pistons will cost about 900 for the je parts. about 430 for the rods. good call on the rod price :)
     
  10. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    I would never pay 900 for 4 JE pistons.

    I payed $430-450 for JE pistons on my turbo build, So i dont see why he would pay 900. Thats a hell of a lot.

    For forged high comp I would rather buy Arias pistons and eagle rods.
     
  11. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    i know theyre pricy but do yours come with skirt coating? skirt coating is proven to increase performance. also, can you order any type of piston you need for different applications? hey, i'm all for saving money but i'm not going to sacrifice performance for cost. for a mild build-- maybe. but for a best of the best-top notch build, its gonna cost a pretty penny. i once had a guy in the machine shop tell me Eddy the top machinist who has done work on thousands of motors starting in north carolina in 1968, was out sick in the hospital and wouldnt be able to get my block machined for a while. (Eddys a diabetic). i could have said let the new guy do it, but that guy didnt have experience. i waited a few days for Eddy to get back to work. even though the new guy would have been cheaper. you just have to pay big bucks for some things.
     
  12. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    [​IMG]

    Yep they are coated.

    I see your point but it looks like he wants a reliable DD and not a track engine.

    Now if he wanted a track engine that needs every last drop of HP I would have Told him to buy 17:1 pistons, forged rods, LW forged stroker Crank, 87mm Sleeves, P&P head, 1mm Oversized valves, custom cams, custom rockers, ITB's and tune it on straight meth.
     
  13. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    yep i agree. although i never thought about extremely high compressions like 17:1..can these stock blocks be machined and customized to actually handle that kinda compression? and in my experience i have used stock crankshafts i know guys running stock cranks on 1000 hp (not hondas obviously) but the honda oem cranks have been easier to work with and the handle hps of like 350 in a few engines i know of. i built one for a guy that did 278 whp on the stock crank. that was an NA engine too.
    the 2nd piston from the left...in your pic..is it messed up on the skirt below the bottom ring? in the pic it looks burned compared to the other 3. or is it just the pic or my screen?
     
  14. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Yeah when you re sleeve the block you can run insane comp like that.

    Stock crank can be used up to 350-400 with no problem. Looks burned but it had a bit of used oil on it from when I stored them with the rods.

    The good things about these pistons is that they are coated, the pin bosses are drilled to improve oiling, and are OEM quality for 150 new with rings. Super pistons for the price, and I know of a bunch of people using them with zero problems.

    YCP and RS machine pistons are awesome too.
     
  15. ricksautomotive

    ricksautomotive honda dealer tech

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    yeah sleeving the block i know about. only went with 13:1 compression though. didnt want to push it because the guy i knew was going to drive it on the street. hes the kinda guy who runs his mouth when hes drinking and will get in his car to show off. then he'll wreck or blow up the engine ant try to get me to warranty his engine. as you know warranty and high performance dont usually come together when youre talking engines. any how, that engine was built conservatively.
    what do you recommend for starters with high compression engines in the 17:1? what brands have you had good experience with?
     
  16. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Yeah you really cant give too much of a warranty unless you tune the engine and give the customer the ECU with the engine.

    To tell you the truth I stick with street cars, 13:1 will be the highest I go on 91 pump....and thats pretty scary right there.

    I would go as high as 14:1 on E85 with a PERFECT tune.

    If you want more Info I can PM you my contacts phone numbers (if they agree) to get more info. I know some people that built all motor track engines.

    For all motor street builds I like using Arias, they are awesome pistons and are at a affordable price(they make custom pistons for a reasonable price as well), for rods and crank I would go with Crower LW stroker kits. (stay far away from eagle stroker kits)

    Darton and golden eagle make great sleeves so you cant go wrong there.

    A lot of people Bash JGE but I and several others have never had a problem with them on porting heads. They do a good job and out flow most and keep flow velocity up. Just show up in person.
     
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