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B18b In A 92-95 Civic Ex 2dr 5spd

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by thepester, Mar 11, 2003.

  1. thepester

    thepester Member

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    Hey, I want to build a fast 92-95 EX 2dr 5spd.

    I have UP TO 8,000... but dont want to spend that much if I dont have to.

    I want to beat almost ALL stock v6 motors. Here is a list of cars I HAVE to beat.

    2002 Grand Am GT w/ Ram Air
    1995 Ford Taurs SHO w/ Cat Back Exhaust, K&N Filter, Yamaha motor. Pretty fast. (I think the fastest's car in town, not much huh?)
    DX with Si-R motor, I think its 94, def. 5th generation.
    I want to beat stock camaros, civics, and integra's.
    Ummmm Id like to be the fastest car in town, I really dont have much to compete with, as you can see.

    I didn't know if I wanted to put an H22A motor or a B18B, but I think Im sold on the B18B. Ive heard too much good about it, and bad about the H22A.

    If you guys could PLEASE put down some setups w/ estimated prices and HP that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot guys, I hope you have fun with this post. Brand Names would also help a lot. I already decided Im going with the b18b motor forsure now. Thanks a lot guys!
     
  2. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Have you considered turbo,you will need to,to be the "fastest in town".The B18B is good for it and you can get real fast for around $8000.What the deal with the SHO,that thing is a frickin' whale 3400+lbs and only 250something horses,not impressive.It only runs about a high 15 (.9 i think).
     
  3. Havok

    Havok Senior Member

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    Is the 8000 just for the motor/aftermeket parts, or the car as well? B18C1 N/A gets my vote-B18B is good, but with turbo its great. H22A has the turning radius that rivals that only of a tank :) j/k, the H22A is great for the track, but iffy on daily driving--hope u like downshifting to 1st to take turns :p Hmotorsonline or hybridrevolution has good prices for engines, and Jason @ ALLJDM has the parts u need AFTER the swap.
     
  4. beau_safken

    beau_safken Senior Member

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    If I were you, I would go B18B1. It is cheap from the get go and will hold a turbo like the beast of an engine it is. If you wanted to run more than 5-7 pounds of boost you need to resleeve and upgrade the internals. Focus most of your upgrades on the bottom end because the bottom of the B18B1 is known for having a little trouble there. 8000 dollars??? Do you already have the car or what? I did a full B18B1 swap with AEM intake, 5zigen catback and ACT HDSS clutch kit for under 3k. With 5k more you should be able to create such a monster that it would rival any of the pathetic cars you listed. Domestic killing is fun, but gets old after a while... :lol:
     
  5. thepester

    thepester Member

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    8000 is including the cost of the car, i think i can find one for no more then 2000 though, leaving 6000 for engine. How much horsepower are kicking out beau? and what have you beaten in that?

    Thanks
     
  6. thepester

    thepester Member

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    i was also thinking of adding something to the suspension and stuff other than the motor, i already have a body kit and tail lights and all that jazz from my first car (94 ex coupe). I want to put some better springs in, and probably stage 2 axles because i worry about bending. I dont want it to shake or ride crappy, or lose anything that way. So please consider that too. Thanks.
     
  7. beau_safken

    beau_safken Senior Member

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    Alright bro lets take it one question at a time.

    You could probably find a EG shell for around 2k. Just make sure that there haven't been any parts pirated off it. IF you can find a car with a messed up engine that doesn't run...that's great. Just make sure you check from rotated chassis bolts and anything unusual. If you don't pick the car well up front, your 6k will get eaten up pretty fast trying to replace items that are missing or broken on the car itself.

    Lets see, after all is said and done...I think my car is dropping around 140 horses to the ground. All I have is a 5zigen catback exhaust, AEM short ram intake, Arospeed ceramic header and an ACT HDSS clutch kit. All I have done so far is just open up the engine so it can breath better. I am considering a cam swap since my B18B1 came from an Automatic therefor it has :ghey: cams.

    I don't really know what cars I have beaten yet. You have to drive under 3k RPM's for around 500 miles so that my clutch can get broken in. IF you don't do that and just start racing around you will glaze the clutch and have to replace it...not a good idea. I'll get back to you after I go to the club clashes at Bandimere in april or may...Or around town, who knows?

    Instead of thinking about suspension right away, just get the engine in. You will be suprised about how many little items any engine swap will need. My original budget for my B18B1 swap was around 2250 dollars. That quickly ballooned into around 3250. All the little things will get you...like broken mounts, intermediate shaft, new axles because the old ones were siezed...Yep siezed...., hoses, sensors, valves, injectors...Just get the engine in basically then make a plan. If you don't go into a swap with a plan on what you are gonna do...you're gonna screw something up or be very unhappy. Decide NOW if you are going N/A, Turbo, Nitrous or whatever so you don't have to rebuy parts that you could have gotten earlier if you only had a plan.

    FYI: Don't buy "stage 2" axles if you aren't pushing 200 or more horsepower. Just get the OEM ones...I bought a pair of OEM axles that have a lifetime guarantee to never break and if they do I get replacements for free. Shop around and you'll be suprised at what you will find.

    FYI2: I would wait on the body kit, tezzas and other stuff. You need to focus on function over form right now. If you're going hybrid make sure your car's internals are all good first. I am a fan of the sleeper look myself just because I hate cops and ricers...Why tell everyone you want to race when you can suprise the hell out of them with a "Stock looking" car, right? :rolleyes:

    FYI3: Dammit you think I could have put this in the body of the post right...LOL. When you're looking for the shell see if you can find one with the least miles possible. This way the bushings will be "newer" and you'll get a better less shaky ride. If not you could go poly-urethane bushings and have them installed for around 400 including parts. Those will make your ride a bit stiffer but they will be new and you'll feel the difference. Also make sure when you shop for suspension consider what you're gonna do with your car. If you're just daily driven than any coil-over would be good...minus of course anything from APC, Matrix etc.. If you're wanting to do autocross than consider a fixed suspension system. With fixed suspension the car is more equally distributed than just guessing how many threads you are lowered. Ok that's it...I'm ending the lecture. Get back to me with any other questions you have and I'll try to help ya out.

    Remember: Function over Form...Ricers are :ghey:
    Hope that helps...
     
  8. *The Honest Mechanic*

    *The Honest Mechanic* Junior Member

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    First of all, those cars that you want to beat are positively WEAKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
    The most impressive car on that list is the 94 sir. - low 15s im assuming
    here ya go - cheapest setup to dirt that weak list of cars

    -92-95 civic - 2500 ish
    - :worthy: b18c complete changover - 3200
    -gut your interior - free
    -remove ac, ps - free
    -short shifter - 30

    there you are done! fastest car from what i can tell
    consider the b18c - 40 more horses, 750 more
    you should run low 14s from what i think and you can use the rest of the money (i would) for full DC exhaust and an AEM cold air intake. paint, and carbon fiber, body kit, whatever is up to you
     
  9. vanishingblackspeed

    vanishingblackspeed Junior Member

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    how much weight do u lose if you take out AC??
     
  10. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    are you trying to say that the gsr is only 750 more than a b18b? :slap:

    I got my b18b with 17k miles on it, complete swap and all, for 1500...i would guess that a b18c in similar condition to mine with similar mileage would sell for 3300-3500

    and its 28 more hp, not 40 :thumbsup:
     
  11. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Sell that stuff and sink more into your motor.
     
  12. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    50lbs or so
     
  13. rsaeini

    rsaeini Senior Member

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    USDM B18B1 = 142hp
    USDM B18C1 = 170hp

    a quick math lesson:

    170-142 = 28 ;)

    only the JDM GSR engine has 178hp, USDM only has 170.
     
  14. thepester

    thepester Member

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    Now you guys have me thinking.
    Do I want a b18b? or a b18c? do I want it USDM or do I want it JDM? That Tauras is fast, it beat my stock d16z6 in 1/4 mile by like 2 1/2 car lengths. I really want to beat it, are you sure Im gonna beat it? and a grand am GT? I dont want to "gut" anything. Let me know what you guys think now. 6000 to spend on the engine. Could somebody show me how much HP these setups are going to give? and something im REALLY curious to know, how much HP do I need to beat the tauras and Grand Am GT w/ Ram Air? Thanks guys!
     
  15. *The Honest Mechanic*

    *The Honest Mechanic* Junior Member

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    B18C 94-01 (GSR) Complete Change Over
    180Hp 126Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
    170Hp 121Trq 10.1 Compression (USDM)
    3199.00 Plus shipping and handling.

    B18B 94-01 (LS) Complete Change Over
    145Hp 127Trq 9.4 Compression (JDM)
    142Hp 127Trq 9.2 Compression (USDM)
    2200.00 Plus shipping and handling.

    There ya go...hmotorsonline...every thing u gut is going to help, not one single thing is going to make a huge difference. ac and ps run on belts. if u take them out u will get power from it. 5-15hp and its FREE. I personally dont need or care about ac or ps, but if u do, by all means leave it and the interior in. You asked to how to beat those cars, if u want to be "the fastest" it helps to consider everything, especially the free stuff...

    jdm to the fool(s) who corrected me which is 35 or 38 depending on b18b usdm or jdm. 740 on math SAT. I dont need your "quick math lessons" queer. For all any of us know the b18c could have exactly 179.9389484874748475848487484874 horsepower. Its called estimation. I dont mind being corrected, just not on stupid shit.
     
  16. beau_safken

    beau_safken Senior Member

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    Ya seriously, all the man wanted to do was help stop busting his balls. Contribute or get out...
     
  17. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Enough trash talk... I've seen plenty from you in just your posts today. Your 740 math score on your SAT doesn't mean a damn thing. Now calm down!
     
  18. liquid00meth

    liquid00meth Senior Member

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    hey man,


    Just to let you know, most of these guys are quoting prices from a shop. I would reccomend looking around at local junkyards before you pay some company. Integra LSs etc are EXTREMELY common to find wrecked, and if you live somewhere with not alot of import engine demand, you could be in luck. I have heard of people buying complete dropouts for under 1g. But if you buy from a shop, there are advantages. They just happen to cost 2,000. If you found a cheap motor, you could pick up a used turbo kit, slap it on there, run 7 PSI, and walk all over those other cars.


    - good luck.
     
  19. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Dude could you look at the motor your qouting or at least read the prices,this is copy pasted straight from hmotorsonline.com:


    It's ok though,your only a thousand dollars off,no biggey.But looking at your post you got the prices backwards.
     
  20. thepester

    thepester Member

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    Hey guys thanks for what youve done, but your not exactly helping. I already know how much everything cost's and what HP comes with it and all the statistics and crap. But is it better to buy the B18C1 with 180HP for 3200, and get the 35 or 28 extra HP that way, or get the B18B for 2200 and get the 35 or 28 HP someplace else. I guess the only thing that matters is the cost and weight right? Does it cost 1000 dollars for 28 HP? What does the B18C weigh? What does the B18B weigh? If it cost 1000 dollars to get the 28 HP from someplace other than the motor, what is that going to weigh? It makes sense that the lightest is going to be the fastest right? So whats better to do? Get the extra HP in the motor, or get the extra HP in bolt ons?

    How do you get the most HP, for the cheapest, and the lightest... thats what I want to know.

    What does 7 PSI mean? And is it a lot? And what do I need to beat those cars? Im not very engine smart, but I have common sense so please help me.

    Please dont argue on this post either, I see 18 reply's and get excited, and half of them are BS.

    I have 6000 to spend on making my car fast (92-95 Civic EX 2dr 5spd) whats the BEST way to do it? I thought you guys would know this, I can see what engines cost, and what HP comes with them, but what I dont know is what works and what doesn't. The HP pushes the car, the lighter the car parts I put in, the less HP I need right? So... WHATS THE BEST WAY?!?!?! I hope you understand what Im asking now.

    Thanks a lot guys.
     
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